Chienmortbb

Can you record the noise and post it here?

Many of us oldies will remember that those old figure of eight cables always had the +ve on the wire with the stripe.

Starting to look at the front panel and have come up against a problem with the VU meter. It is 80mm long, the same as the height of the enclosure but the mounting screws extend off the PCB. making a combined height of 84mm. So I either mount it horizontally or use a different VU meter. I could even use an analogue one like Ashdown.

The Connex modules do have a temperature output that makes it easier to monitor temperature and to turn on a fan if the temperature gets too high. I could add a fan circuit if needed and will leave space for it.

Thanks for the support. It is staring to feel like a real project now. I put the sockets on the outside as I decided that it would give more space inside the case and aid cooling. It does not look quite as good as when they are mounted from the inside but there is a gain of about 2 cubic centimetre of air per connector. That gives between 10-12 cubic centimetres in total and might be important if the heat management is marginal. I believe there is enough heat sinking to keep the unit cool in most circumstances but it has to be remembered that even the best Class D Amps with a Switch Mode Power Supply is around 85% efficient. That means 15% of all power used produces heat. That means over 17 watts of heat per 100 watts delivered to the speakers or close to 200 watts at full power for this amp.

Here is the assembled back panel. I will be mounting amp modules on the chassis next.

I got this reply from Mojotone last year when I asked them “I believe the cane grill types we carry shrink slightly when misted with water and dried. However, we do not use this technique in house. None of the plastic-made cloth will shrink. ”

There are people on here that really know what they are talking about and some that know a lot less than they think they do (like me). However the best advice I can give you is to use your ears rather than your eyes when selecting a cab. The second bit of advice is that you cannot "remember" how a cabinet sounds, unless you can do a side by side A/B audition (preferebly a blind audition), comparing two cabs would be unhelpful.

I agree and also its worth checking the relief the day after adjustment.

I think this is just about right. If the above trick does not work you need to talk to a tech.

I have just been re-looking at DiMarzio wiring diagrams and they suggest 500K for Vol and 250K for tone. Also the tone cap was 0.33uF or 33 nF. Worked well for me on two basses. They also suggest Log pots that also worked for me giving a more useful control over the whole pots.

Apparently American style grille cloth can be heated and will shrink to fit. @Phil Starrhas mentioned this on another thread, I will try to find it for you.

I have been quite poorly fo tge last two weeks and just about coming out of the other side. Not COVID although a nasty virus and it really knocked me sideways. When I ordered the back panel I calculated that each threaded hole cost 11p more than a clearance hole. My original thought was that I had enough machine screws, nuts and washers. Just to assuage my curiosity, I had the holes for the mains connector tapped and it was a mistake. I did not have as many fixings as I thought so the £2 odd saving I made was more than wiped out by the cost of buying more machine screws, nuts and washers. The next thought is whether to mount the connectors from the inside or outside, It is tidier from the inside as seen above but in such a tight space it makes sense to mount from the outside of the panel. It adds internal volume and also removes a number of surfaces from the inside that could restrict the airflow. As most of the connectors use faston connectors, it would not be difficult to revert to internal mounting. Of course this would not be possible if all the holes were treaded as this would mandate mounting the connectors on the outside. Off to start assembly.

A good review pointing out both the benefits and shortcomings of this type of system. Having owned several Yamaha systems over the years, I suspect it would be a better buy than the Bose L1 equivalent in the long term.

I have never written it down but that sounds similar to how I do it. One extra point, despite the amount of solids in TuffCab, you still need to sand the cabinet smooth. It barely notices but there is a line on one of my cabs where two panels join.

Sorry I should read posts fully before posting,

Tuff Cab is a trademark owned by Blue Aran for the cabinet paint marketed by Blue Aran. @nekomatichas said that he will not use Tuff Cab although many of us have. It is easy to apply and forms a thick tough skin for the cabinet. It can give several types of textured finish depending on the roller type used to apply it.

Less typing with Santa.

I don't buy from Bass Direct.

I am flat broke. I spent to much while fretting about rounds. When she finds out it will be my neck on the line,,, (slinks back to the Den Of Iniquity Thread).

Not all plywood is heavy. Birch is and it is as tough as hell, spruce is very light and was used for the prototype BC112 MK3. However spruce is softer than Birch. Poplar is a good compromise. Its all relative. My BC112 MK3 weighs 12.4Kg, not as light as the GR equivalent but similar to a Big Baby II. It is also very well balanced.

My mistake. Sorry.

That's great. I love it when people get the gear they want. However the 410+ is listed as a wooden cabinet on the GR website.

Me neither Mike, I have both on my basses (not at the same time of course). i will be honest I don't like either. I hate the tension of most flats and the string noise and extra friction of most rounds. I know my technique is lacking and I am trying to improve it but until I can get a round with no string noise or lower tension flats, I will continue to hate both equally.

I think the the point is that the ideal material for a cabinet sonically is MDF but that is too heavy and is not very resilient to knocks and it is very heavy. Plywood is not as good sonically but much lighter and very tough, that is why some types are structurally sound and approved for building. Carbon fibre or Graphite is very light and, with the help of bracing can be quite strong. The reality is that to achieve the strength of plywood you need a lot of bracing. So it can be light but not resilient. Now you pay your money and take your choice but, even at 70, I would forgo the 2Kg weight saving to know that my cabinet will almost certainly be intact at every gig.