Chienmortbb

Would not go for the Bose system. They can’t really cut it in a band situation and are designed for recorded music and voice, professional karaoke. By professional karaoke I mean those singers that just sing all night to backing tracks. I would go for a matching subwoofer, those Alto tips are not bad but with so much going through them they need help. Remember subs are not as directional as tops do you can use one (remember to run the system in mono).” The Subwoofer that goes with tops is the TS312 https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/Alto-TS312S-Active-Subwoofer/2YEB This will stop LF going to the tops and substantially increase the headroom. output from the mixer to the sub, then one feeed out from the subwoofer to rad of the TS 312s. Hopefully that will do the trick and they are £349 at G4M. You can add another later if need be. The diagram below is for the 15s but the wiring is the same.

Many of the well respected FOH sepakers are plastic boxes.

This is an ear opener. Both sit well ion the mix, but isolated are not too clever,. Is therehoepo for me yet ...nah

The Neutrik jacks are made by their UK subsidiary REAN and are too big for some speaker cables. From memory only the 4mm cables are fit well. .If you use the 2.5mm* cable some of the smaller jacks are OK. Just don’t scrimp on the plugs, most Neutrik, Switchfraft and Amphenol jack plugs are. OK at fairly high currents but generic jack plugs are often only good for 1 amp or even as little as half an amp. I am away at the moment but will check my “facts” tomorrow asI have most plugs and cables at home. * for short amp to can cables, 2.5mm is more than good enough, 4mm is overkill.

I will let othersmore qualified answer the questions but ina 60l cab thd Beyma 12CVM2 is worth looking at. It’s thermal handling is only a tad lower than the SM212, probably due to having a steel chassis rather than aluminium. However is is.very close in most parameters and like a bigger cabinet than the SM212. It is considerably cheaper though.

The crucial frequencies are double the fundamentals, so 62Hz for a low B. Most of the sound is in the harmonics and the fundamentals can be the cause of wollyness or boominess. I have to be honest that both those cabs look overpriced for the performance.

The new Ashdown RM800 is definately worth a look.

Thanks for the bump. Apart from ilness and the aforementioned personal matters, I have just joined a new band and am frantically learning new songs. I hope to have a prototype at the Big Fat South West Bass Bash bua as that is one week before our first gig it might slip.

The crossover point is a good one. Limiting the 15 to low frquencies would improve matters a lot and get round the 2x10s farting out before the 15. @steviecould probably elaborate.

Looks like a few BC112 speakers will be there as I will be bringing mine plus my Bugera Mosfet amp and either my Fender Aerodyne and/or my Greg Bennett semi acoustic bass ( might sell if the offers are right). I may even bring my homebrew 500 watt amp designed in conjunction with passinwind if finished.

Don't take any notice of launch pricing the market will decide and I suspec t AShdown have priced them accordingly.

The Palmer range have some different sizes and are excellent.

True. For fixed installations Gold is worthwhile for touring/gigging it does nothing but does not hurt.

I have one of those. It slices hard boiled eggs nicely.

What standoffs were used?

Thanks that helps.

How did yhou find the etch primer? The spray one I used was not tghat good and I need to startt again on the grilee.

I probably should have said it is not ideal to run two full range cabinets and Stevie aims for a no compromise approach. Phil has explained better than I could, but if we ignore the issues Phil mentions, there are real benefits for the DIY builder. These are weight, not using the compression driver and horn saves about 0.5Kg or over one pound weight. Secondly, cost. A good comp driver and horn with cost £70+. Two commercial cabinets may sound great but as we are building ourselves, the cost and weight saving make it more than worthwhile,

We tried the Mk 3 on top of my MK2. The MK2 had the horn stuffed with a micro fibre cloth and so it was effectively a single 12 with an 2 kHz LPF. The results were very encouraging although Stevie thinks 800Hz would be a better. The sound was not noticeably louder and there was no excessive LF/Bass but the lower cabinet seemed to reinforce the sound of the MK3.

Richard is correct. A lower cabinet with a limited top end will help, two full range cabinets is not such a good idea and Stevie has hinted at an idea to run a lower cabinet with a limited bandwidth. However I know he has been busy lately. I think that putting this cabinet on top of your "MK1" may work but it may be a bit middy. Keep an eye o this thread.

Not possible I am afraid. Class D amps with switching power supplies already achieve north of 80% efficiency so you can only achieve probably an extra 20% increase in power from a given mechanical envelope.

They have one of those at one of our local rehearsal rooms. No surprise that it is the cheapest of the three local ones.

The 300W one will be 150ish into 8ohms and a little underpowered for me.

I think the standard labelling for power consumption on ampilfiers is what they consume when operating at a set percentage of output that's supposed to represent normal use. For example, the back of my GK MB200 says "Full power 240w, average power 48.6W" next to the power socket. I'd presume that your Roland quotes the lower figure. Still even considering that, the Behringer's consumption seems small for it's advertised output. Quote power consumption at 1/8 power. This is because speech and music are not continuous and 12.5% is considered the normal power draw. Instrument amplification should be rated much higher, especially bass as the power drawn for lower frequencies is higher.