stoo

Or get rid of all the Send blocks, hard pan left and right at the merge block and use the two main outputs for each path's output

It doesn't sound that similar (to my ears, with my bass and playing style at least) to any of the default settings for any of the SVT models.... I'd be fairly sure that with some tweaking of drive/master/eq parameters you could make the SVT models sound like the sansamp model..... but I'm not sure that's really helping any? Have you considered downloading the Helix Native free trial? That way you could test any of the amp sim models available and see if there's anything that you prefer in those which you can't replicate with the sansamp model.....

I don't really use the foot switches for changing presets - I wouldn't expect to need to change presets within a song, and don't mind bending down to twist the upper knob to pick a different preset between songs. I tend to leave the foot switches in stomp or snapshot mode (depending on the preset) and that usually gives me plenty of flexibility to change sounds within a song. I do have an external double footswitch, and a home made 8 switch midi controller.... but I rarely end up using either of them to be honest.

You can reassign FS3 (or FS4 / FS5 if you're using an external switch as well) to a few different functions, and All Bypass is one of the options....

Connect your battery via a toaster timer switch..... Give the dial a twist at the start of each song and then you've got 5 minutes before the battery automatically disconnects itself. Obviously not suitable for metal, or any other genres with songs longer than 5 minutes!

Do you need a DI box? The stomp has a balanced output capability, so you can just use a 1/4" TRS to XLR adaptor... I have heard of some people thinking a DI box might be necessary to protect against the possibility of any phantom power issues, but I'm not sure how likely it is that it would be an issue?

Selling a 100w Hiwatt head in the 90s to a mate for £40, a year or two before the internet arrived to educate me that it's actual value might have been slightly higher than that....

Not necessarily - there's some stuff that happens in the input and output blocks at each end of the chain, and those blocks can't be switched off. You can press both upper and lower knobs at the same time to put it in full bypass though. Also, as an added complication, there's two different types of full bypass.... analog bypass uses relays to completely bypass everything, and DSP bypass has the signal still routing through the processor so that delay/reverb trails continue. You can pick which one in the Global Settings-> Preferences menu

I usually put the amp/cab/IR blocks at or near the end of the chain - sometimes I'll put delay/reverb/compression afterwards.... I just play around with it in HX edit and see what I like better. I'm no fan of the stock PSU either - I went with a slightly less permanent option than superglue though!

Shouldn't be too tricky to adapt it to send MIDI notes instead of Program Change / Control Change messages, but there's bound to be loads of guides showing you how to build a DIY Arduino MIDI keyboard with code that you could steal more easily.....

I don't think I had to download an alternate driver to get mine working.... Not 100% certain as it was a while ago, but I've set it up on two different PCs and I *think* it'd have rung a bell if I'd have had to do that... Are you able to select the board, processor and port OK in the Arduino IDE? (under the Tools menu)

The way I did it is USB power only, but you could always add a battery holder to the enclosure and hook that up to the VIN & GND pins on the Arduino. I use a mains USB phone charger with mine

Screwfix do some similar kind of containers & some are even cheaper than that... https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/organisers/cat831376#category=cat831376&sort_by=price

Weird - I was sure I'd seen the ratings from GK themselves, so I went back and had a look... In the comments of this thread Admittedly that was about the Fusion models rather than the Legacy ones, but I'd assumed they would all use the same power section. Maybe they don't, or maybe they've updated them all since last year....??

I don't think so - I remember reading before that they're quoting the 2 ohm rating as the headline power figure for the new line, but if you're using a 4 ohm or greater load, the new 1200 / 800 / 500 range is essentially equivalent to the old 800 / 500 / 200 models in terms of output.

2 stomps at once?

I don't see any harm in teasing updates with a rough idea of the timeline - but if you're going to do that you need to provide some updates if that timeline is going to slide.... If the target you've set yourself has passed and you've not said anything at all, it's understandable that some people are going to get a bit irked. There was a presentation from the Line 6 guys a while ago - I think it might have been a NAMM one - where they were talking about some 2.8 features, and while talking about the new Helix Core stuff the presenter said "no amp sims on HX effects....... YET"... so it's possible they are looking at bringing the HX effects up to HX stomp type capabilities at some point...

You can use a mono lead, but only for a single external switch.... If you use a mono lead to a dual switch the ring and sleeve contacts will be shorted and only one of the switches would work.

Those pics show a TS jack rather than a TRS one...... so they wouldn't be balanced...

It's got balanced out via TRS jacks so you can get a TRS to XLR cable and not need a DI box

You can set it so that two footswitches are used for preset up/down, and the other toggles an effect within a patch. The built in tuner isn't an effect block, and doesn't require a dedicated patch. The default setup is to have footswitch 3 as a tap/tempo switch, but you don't need to have this..... but if you don't, then you'd need to press the action and page right buttons together to engage the tuner (or use an external footswitch or midi controller). I normally have FS3 setup as a regular effect block toggle - I don't usually need to retune so frequently that bending down to press the buttons by hand is much of an inconvenience. Switching between patches does cause a brief pause in output. It's pretty quick though (about 0.1s), so assuming you're going to change patches between notes rather than in the middle of one it's not likely to be an issue. If it is, you might be able to use the Snapshot feature to workaround this... you could have a single patch with an amp sim, an envelope filter a fuzz pedal and whatever else in it, and then have 3 snapshots setup within that patch so for example - snapshot 1 could be the amp set to a clean sound, snapshot 2 could be same clean sound but with the envelope filter engaged as well, snapshot 3 could have the envelope filter off, fuzz pedal on, and also up the gain and back off the master volume on the amp sim. You can add 3rd party IR .WAVs via the HX edit software - you can load up to 128 onto the Stomp, but it's worth being careful about how they're named before you add them in, as you only get to see the 1st 16 or so characters of the filename. If you use HX edit you can still see the whole filename, but on the stomp screen itself there's only so much room... but if you're tweaking sounds away from your computer, it can be tricky to pick between 100 different variants of "CelestionGreenb" or whatever

Depends what you're doing with it. If you're pulling the strap away from the body parallel to (or at least fairly near to) the orientation of the screw, there is a chance that the rubber washer type solution can pop off the strap button. I can't see myself ever doing that, so it's never been much of a concern for me. As to shearing the screws, the problem I can see with mechanical straplocks like schaller ones is that they move the strap further away from the body, and so provide additional leverage to bend the screw head, which over time will weaken it. Also, the screws that come with the schallers tend to be slightly smaller in diameter than standard strap peg screws, so that the head fits in the recess in the peg - but slightly longer to compensate. So they're weaker from the get go... and then if they get put in a hole made for a larger diameter screw, only the very tip is biting into the wood effectively, and the end nearer the surface already has a tiny bit of wiggle room.... so that every time it gets any lateral force applied to it the screw bends a bit before hitting the edge of the hole... which ends up weakening it faster. Since switching to the fender branded grolsch washers I've had no issues and I've no plans to switch to anything else...

Something I've read somewhere, (but have no idea how accurate it is) is that combining loud distorted tones with excessive HPF use can cause the driver to overheat in some situations as all the movement (and hence power and heat dissipation is concentrated around a small section of the coil. Seems plausible enough, but no idea how likely it is to be a real cause for concern?

I know you've already started a Spotify playlist for this, but I didn't when I started another one.... and because I'd started from the beginning of the "part 1" thread, I've ended up with a 503 song / 42 hour monster playlist. Ah well, at least I will have a decent playlist ready for my next road trip! I dunno if you'd rather merge them all into yours so save having two lists on the go at the same time? If so, I'll happily delete my one or make it private again or whatnot? In the meantime - in case it's of interest to anyone - here it is-