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  1. Depends what you're doing with it. If you're pulling the strap away from the body parallel to (or at least fairly near to) the orientation of the screw, there is a chance that the rubber washer type solution can pop off the strap button. I can't see myself ever doing that, so it's never been much of a concern for me. As to shearing the screws, the problem I can see with mechanical straplocks like schaller ones is that they move the strap further away from the body, and so provide additional leverage to bend the screw head, which over time will weaken it. Also, the screws that come with the schallers tend to be slightly smaller in diameter than standard strap peg screws, so that the head fits in the recess in the peg - but slightly longer to compensate. So they're weaker from the get go... and then if they get put in a hole made for a larger diameter screw, only the very tip is biting into the wood effectively, and the end nearer the surface already has a tiny bit of wiggle room.... so that every time it gets any lateral force applied to it the screw bends a bit before hitting the edge of the hole... which ends up weakening it faster. Since switching to the fender branded grolsch washers I've had no issues and I've no plans to switch to anything else...
  2. stoo

    Zoom B1 Four

    Something I've read somewhere, (but have no idea how accurate it is) is that combining loud distorted tones with excessive HPF use can cause the driver to overheat in some situations as all the movement (and hence power and heat dissipation is concentrated around a small section of the coil. Seems plausible enough, but no idea how likely it is to be a real cause for concern?
  3. I know you've already started a Spotify playlist for this, but I didn't when I started another one.... and because I'd started from the beginning of the "part 1" thread, I've ended up with a 503 song / 42 hour monster playlist. Ah well, at least I will have a decent playlist ready for my next road trip! I dunno if you'd rather merge them all into yours so save having two lists on the go at the same time? If so, I'll happily delete my one or make it private again or whatnot? In the meantime - in case it's of interest to anyone - here it is-
  4. stoo

    Zoom B1 Four

    HX edit is free regardless (but is useless unless you have Helix hardware to control with it) Helix Native isn't free, but you get a big discount if you have a Helix device serial number registered to you - I paid $120 inc UK taxes... but it would have been 4 times that if I didn't have the HX stomp already.
  5. Another vote for the MMSR here. I put the 3 band 3 knob version in my USA SUB, and the 3 band 4 knob version in my 3EQ Stingray... my only regret is that I wish I'd gone for the 3 knob version on both as I prefer having the jack on the control plate rather than on the body edge..
  6. stoo

    Zoom B3 - HELP!

    More or less - but I think you'd still be going through the B3's input buffer and global volume control It's just a quicker way to skip past lots of presets at once. If you think of the letters as numbers instead, preset A0 becomes 00, A1 becomes 01, B0 becomes 10, B1 becomes 11 etc... so if you wanted to jump from preset 01 to preset 11 you could just go up a bank rather than going up 10 presets individually. I never had too much trouble with it, but I've got big feet. Not on the B3. The hardware would be capable of it - the G3 got a firmware update which let you have 6 effects in one patch, but they never updated the B3 in the same way. That's not what banks are for, no. You could just copy a preset with your clean amp sim sound to another preset, and then change the other effects within it though.
  7. Thanks - that's good to know. I've had a quick look at the Bounce2 library and I *think* the way I've done it should be pretty similar speed-wise... I know there's a couple of delay() calls in the setup phase, but once it hits the main loop everything should be done referencing millis() instead of using delay() It's probably just my clumsy feet then.... :D
  8. Sweet! It's really great to hear that this has been of use to someone. How are you finding the looper controls? I've never had much luck with mine and I'm not sure whether it's down to my lack of foot coordination, or the cheap footswitches I used, or lag in the code. I keep meaning to adapt the code to use pin change interrupts for button press detection, but I've got another project I want to get out of the way first before coming back to this one....
  9. I've got one of these and can recommend it too.
  10. I think the M on the side indicates that it's a momentary one - I've seen similar ones with an L on the side for latching type...
  11. Looks like it should work - Simple Pitch and Dual Pitch both let you use an interval of 0, and then tweak the pitch in 0.2 cent increments, as well as adding a delay from 0.1ms up to 100ms if you want that too. I guess you could even run it in stereo and run either side through different amp sims as long as the rest of the preset was simple enough that you don't run into block / dsp / routing limitations...
  12. Weird - I'd always perceived my OLP neck to be quite skinny. My OLP is one of the later models with 2 pickups though, so maybe they changed the profile at some point? Or maybe my hands are just lying to me I'll have to bring it back from the rehearsal room after next practice and measure them all up to see.
  13. Yep. Or straight into FOH and use the Headrush for your monitor mix from the desk. Or bin the headrush and just use the house monitors. Or send separate signals to the headrush and to FOH if you wanted a more amplike sound on stage but a cleaner feed to FOH. Or send clean and effected signals to FOH and then have whatever mix as required out front and in the monitors.. etc etc - It's pretty flexible
  14. It can be done, but the solution is a little more complex as the Zoom stuff only does MIDI over USB, and Zoom don't document the MIDI functionality. Hardware-wise you'll need to be able to communicate with the Zoom as a USB MIDI host - I bought an Arduino UNO with a USB host shield after seeing this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enK6Y30dAYs (there are links to github pages for the code in the video description) and was able to get it working fine on my B3 for basic patch selection as shown in the video. The fiddly bit is working out the MIDI messages you need. There's a a good thread on thegearpage - https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/midi-control-of-zoom-g3-video.1033719/page-3#post-19617949 - with a lot of useful information in. I spent a bit of time trying to map out the commands I'd need for my G3n to be able to switch each effect on and off regardless of whether they were visible on screen. Never quite got there before getting sidetracked by something else. I was intending to get back to it at some point, but then accidentally bought an HX Stomp instead
  15. Saving the data looks to be easy enough https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/EEPROMWrite I've got 3 different multi-fx boxes here with loopers on and I struggle to get anything useful out of any of them. The Zoom one on the B3 isn't too bad - You can get the drum machine going so you don't have to worry about getting the loop length right, but it seems I just don't have the foot coordination for doing it manually..... or maybe I just need to practice more! I don't know much about bluetooth on arduino, but it looks like many of them will use the serial bus for the bluetooth side of things which could add an extra layer of complexity if you're trying to send or receive midi with the same arduino unless it has multiple serial buses available. Could always use a separate Nano for reading the footswitches, sending midi, and triggering the bluetooth arduino that you've already got?
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