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  1. stoo

    Mini Helix - HX Stomp...

    Yep - it's global settings -> preferences -> EXP/FS Tip which needs to be set to FS4 instead of EXP1
  2. stoo

    Mini Helix - HX Stomp...

    Worked OK for me - haven't tried any from 3sigma, but have done some guitar ones from redwire and another couple of randoms I found links to on youtube videos. Click on impulses above the left column where the preset list normally is. Click on an empty slot, and then click import at the top. Browse to the IR file you want and then click open. Then go back to your preset, add an IR block. The top parameter in the IR block list lets you choose from any of the impulses you have imported. The only thing I can think of maybe is that you've downloaded a ZIP file with several IRs in.... you'll need to extract that so that HX edit can see the WAV files - it can't import a ZIP directly
  3. stoo

    these teeny weeny amps - which one?

    GK MB200 might be worth a look as well?
  4. stoo

    Zoom B3 vs Windows 10

    My B3 seems to work fine still and windows is all up to date on my PC, so it's possible the windows update is a coincidence. Have you tried using a different USB cable and/or connecting to a different USB port on your PC? If you look in "Device Manager" on your PC (quickest way to get to it is to right-click on the start menu) does the B3 show up? On mine it appears under "Audio inputs and outputs", "Software devices", and "Sound, video and game controllers". Possibly in other places as well, but those are the ones I've spotted so far. If it's a driver issue, they may show up but with a yellow exclamation mark - sometimes you can get some useful information by right clicking and selecting properties... Did you apply the B3 firmware update from the laptop OK?
  5. stoo

    Vulfpeck. Running Away.

    He's definitely played a short scale P on some of their stuff... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUyuGjLy4BQ
  6. stoo

    MM 2018 Stingrays

    The Ray 34 has already had its headstock logo changed to StingRay... https://sterlingbymusicman.com/pages/stingray-ray34 They've still got the Sterling by Musicman logo though, which is the bit that makes the least sense to me..... but then Sterling (the person) said that no-one would get Sterling (the company) confused with Sterling (the model), so no need to worry. 🙄 I'd love one of the new Stingrays but the price point puts me out of the running.... It wasn't that long ago they were knocking out those 133 series 2EQ rays for under a grand.... you'd think the new ones would be cheaper seeing as they're saving the cost of a screw for each neck joint
  7. Have you ever had any luck controlling the n series pedals? I'm having a go at modifying an old wah pedal to work with my G3n as an expression pedal, and would like the toe switch to be able to toggle the pedal effect on and off. So far I've got an Arduino able to make patch changes to either my B3 or my MS-60B using a USB host shield and code based on https://github.com/vegos/ZoomG3_ArduinoMIDI .... but the G3n doesn't seem to respond to the same Program Change message. I guess my next step is to try and work out how to use a USB sniffer and see what GuitarLab is sending to the pedal....
  8. stoo

    Mini Helix - HX Stomp...

    I definitely don't need one of these. i've got a Zoom B3 and a G3n which cover all my tone shaping needs and more... and while a one-box solution would be slightly more convenient, I don't gig on guitar and rarely need or use anything more than a tuner for the gigs I do on bass. So the real question is....... will I be able to hold out until the price drops a bit before splashing out on one?
  9. Sounds ideal! Well I wasn't planning on standing right in front of em when they're cranked right up....... well, not for long anyway 😛
  10. It's more the PA side of things that I was thinking of - for bass in mono even the XLS1002 looks like plenty as it'll bridge to 1100W @ 4 ohm if I'm running both cabs, or 700W @ 8 ohm if just one. It's not even that I really need a new amp - our drummer has a small PA which is up to most of the gigs we do where PA isn't provided by the venue.... but it's always irked me that I've got these whopping PA cabs that end up sat at the back of the stage just ticking over most of the time. It'd be nice to be able to use his PA just for monitors, and stick the Barefaceds out front. Also, the inner child in me just wants to find out what they'd be capable of given a big enough amp
  11. stoo

    Standing a cab on top of a flight case

    Fair enough - happy days!
  12. stoo

    Standing a cab on top of a flight case

    Not sure if I've read this wrong, but it looks to me like the OP was asking about putting the cab on the floor as normal, then putting the flightcase for the head on the cab, and then the head on top of the flightcase..... and then folks are answering as if he was talking about getting a flightcase for the cab, putting that on the floor, and then the cab on the flightcase.....?
  13. Hi all, I've got a pair of Barefaced Big Baby 2s which I normally power with a GK MB500... sometimes on its own, sometimes with a Zoom B3 straight into the FX return. No problems with volume, although on the odd occasion I've only taken one cab, I have sometimes had to push the GK preamp into dirtier territory than I'd prefer. When I ordered the cabs, I got them with pole mount top hats, so I could potentially use them as a PA pair, but I never got round to getting a suitable power amp to drive them. I'm just trying to work out what I'd need to make the most of the cabs.... judging by barefaced's recommended amp power page, something between 600 and 800W seems appropriate. Crown XLS stuff seems to get recommended a lot, so I had a look there, .... the 1002 or 1502 look great for a mono stack, or single cab in bridge mode, but even the 2502 only goes up to 2x440W @ 8ohm and is already up to £485 If I forgo the weight savings of class D and look at the XLi3500, that overhits it on power at 2x1000W @ 8ohm, and is about £630.... but at that sort of price point I'd be tempted to just trade my BB2s in for FR800s or some RCF ART 712s or something similar. Behringer NX6000 looks promising, claiming 2x 1600W into 8 ohm for less than £300, but presumably that's some sort of peak marketing watts rather than continuous rms honest watts? I've read various reports suggesting divide those figures by anywhere up to 4 to get a realistic number, so we're back down to 400w a side... Is there something i'm missing here? At the moment it looks like the most cost effective option is getting a pair of XLS1002s and running both of them bridged, one per cab.... but that just seems like a mad way of doing it. Is there something else that might fit the bill better? Cheers, Stu
  14. stoo

    SOLD: Music Man sub U.S.A. burgundy!! PRICEDROP £375,-

    I did the exact same thing.... I ended up routing mine out for a battery box and dropped in a John East preamp. It was a really easy job to do, and now I've got the bonus of having the 2EQ sound but with an extra sweepable mid control. Could be worth a thought if you've got access to a router...
  15. Me too! Although mine was bought at a car boot sale in the 90s...