BassBod

I tried one a year or so ago - really wanted to like it, it sounded good but it was so uncomfortable to play....something drastically wrong with the body shape. I couldn't stop it digging into my ribs (and I'm not skinny, by any means!) BB

Or you could have my SWR Goliath II for a lot less than that (shameless, I know). Its a seriously good 4x10, and just as heavy as a Hartke! BB

I'd also add Euphonic Audio - its got a lot of tone tweaking options, but also a defeat button. Paired with their cabs (not entirelt neutral, but close) I don't think you'll find much cleaner.....look out for second hand stuff otherwise its very pricey. I'd love to hear some of those Acme cabs - one day! BB

I think it was from Bass NorthWest...delivered in a couple of days, no tax, so it worked out pretty cheap at the time. I remember thinking about it for a couple of weeks, but then I weighed the cost up in terms of strings...and that did it. Walter Harley seems to know his stuff and doesn't make any huge claims for his product - it just does what it does, very well. I'm just outside Bristol, so if you want to try before you buy send me a PM? BB

I got one of the Cafe Walter boxes - great quality, makes learning stuff on headphones a joy. Mine only runs on battery (2x9v) so can be a bit expensive, but it also works with rechargeables (just not so long). I also use it for the iPod or hifi at home. Very good. I use the Grado SR 60's. Good natural bass, but the open design can be a pain for those not enjoying the music.... I thought the Cafe Walter would be useful with young children in the house, but I've ended up taking it with me on tours...on holiday...its that good. Just don't play too loud for too long. BB

That's about 100 yards from my house - you playing the NS bass by any chance? BB

Look out for a second hand Eden WT400 - and any 1x15 cab. That'll give you a good warm blues tone (but you won't get all the modern mids and fizz, but who needs 'em...) BB

I'd say Jazz, except when its a really loud situation, and that's where a good Pbass comes into its own. I used to play in a 60's/covers band - amazing how loud they could get. BB

Interesting discussion. My limited experience suggests that the various graphite "recipes" also sound different. I used a Status graphite neck for a while, but really didn't get on with the clacky sound - very even and great sustain but had an edge. I also borrowed an old Zon with a glued in graphite neck - very clear and strong sounding but had much more warmth. It also had no truss rod, so I guess you'd be in trouble if it ever played up..... BB

Hmm - have a look at theMo Clifton bass I'm selling....more info at cliftonbasses.co.uk or PM me? BB

I had the same problem with a Streamer S1. Sometimes it would "fuzz" for no reason - but I never pinned it down to a specific cause. Wasn't the socket, battery terminals were fine...so I gave up there and replaced the p/ups (EMG's) and pre (Aguilar OPB2). Sounds magnificent now. I wouldn't bother replacing the MEC p/ups if you're happy with the basic sound - EMG's are a bit better (to me) but its not a huge change in tone. The preamp is a real improvement - but the bass cut on the OPB2 is a waste of time - more like a second volume control! If I did it again I'd go for either the OPB1 or 3 instead. I'd also consider a Bartolini preamp. Good luck BB

I'd love to, but family life....saw him in Brecon a few years back - one of the best gigs I've ever seen. I even admired the way he handled the stage crew when they tried to give him a GK instead of his (then)SWR. No ranting or demands, he just pointed to the GK and with a big grin said something like "what's that?". Within a few minutes they were carrying on the SWR they didn't want to bother with. BB

Not always - I bought an old Trace GP11 pre a few years ago, and it was fully functional, with only minimal "bent ear". It also arrived on time, very well packed. I think you've got to talk to them about things as I'm sure condition varies a lot, and they strip some items to repair others etc.. BB

If you don't tinker with string types/guages then get a traditional fixed brass job. I've got one of the W adjustable brass ones (in case the plastic one fell apart) but you've got to file it out a lot, which makes the individual screws hard to turn. Bit of a fuss really. I saw somewhere that they've redesigned the plastic one? That might be the easiest option. BB

Be realistic, but above all agree the deal before you play a note - preferably before you go to the studio. I'd rather take an agreed fee over potential future earnings. But then I'm not rich (or particularly busy at the moment.....hmm) I've taken to quoting higher than feels natural these days - you do lose a few jobs, but you also get better paid when you work. BB

I'm not an expert on such things, but I recall the old Fishman p/up used to come with an extra earth wire - and you just twisted it onto one or more of the strings somewhere below the bridge? If the jack socket is metal cased you should be able to solder a wire to the case and that will provide a ground, but it is a bit odd that it doesn't happen with every amp? Are you playing in the same room with different amps, also are your strings metal? I'm sure there is an Underwood website - may be worth emailing the maker and describing the problem... best of luck BB

Ahhhh....Druidstone. Done a couple of gigs there over the years. Lovely bar. Enjoy...man. BB

[attachment=584:DSCN0880.JPG] Going in the For Sale section..... BB

There are various forms - the custom/hand made ones Kent used to make in the UK (now in the sates) and Aaron still makes here, and the Korean (?) ones that WD sell. All are great and the fender style ones are very useful for projects on a budget. I've seen pictures of very expensive Carl Thompson basses fitted with KA soapbars...always seemed a bit odd to me, given that here in the UK they seem like budget models. I recently sold a Pbass fitted with a £30 KA and the new owner is still raving about the sound...six months later. BB