BigRedX

Agreed. This year I have mostly used eBay for getting rid of a load of unwanted tat including several things that were sold unworking for spares or repair that would have probably otherwise ended up in a landfill. I didn't make a massive amount of money, but all the new automated process meant that most of my time was spent taking the photos and then boxing up the items when they sold.

The nut is cut fine. The strings are already a little too close to the edge of the fingerboard. The neck is just much too narrow for bass guitar thickness strings, which isn't surprising considering that my skinny-stringed guitars have wider necks (and string spacing at the nut) than this. Think if the Squier had the same relative string spacing (slightly adjusted for the thicker bass strings) as my guitars I would have been able to adapt, but I was forever playing the wrong string especially when I switched from alternating up, and down strokes to all down strokes or playing patterns that swap between the A and G strings which is something I do a lot in my current band. I got on better with the Burns Barracuda which had wider string spacing at the nut, but unfortunately narrow spacing at the bridge (compared with the Squier), but the best overall compromise for me is the Eastwood Hooky. Ideally I think I might want something with the same string spacing between the E, A, D and G strings as the Hooky but have the G-B and B-E string spacing just a bit wider than it is on the Squier.

I suppose it is because the majority of their business is guitar strings where slotted machine heads are much less common and therefore it is easy to fit the strings and tune to pitch before cutting them.

There may only be a problem cutting the strings first if they are round core. If they are hex core you can cut them to length before installing them as normal. It's poor advice on the part of Newtone. I've taken this point up with them previously and they really don't seem to be bothered about addressing it correctly on their packaging. All my Newtone strings are hex core so I just cut them to length and fit them. If you have bought round core strings they will recommend that you put a 90° bend it them where they go into the machine head post hole and then cut off the excess.

Then at the compositional stage limit yourself to a set of standard sounds. Worry about getting those right only when you finalising the arrangement or doing actual recording. Just because a device offers you a multitude of options doesn't mean you need to use them all. Stick with the ones that do what you want. As I have said in other threads about composition and recording, is that for me at least these are two very different functions with almost zero overlap. Also when I'm writing, I'm writing for whichever band I'm currently in which will have a specific sound. Therefore I already know what sorts of sounds I'm going to want before I even start.

Is that the width of the nut or the distance between the centres of the two E strings? The nut width on my Squier VM Bass VI is 41mm but the distance between the centres of the two E strings is only 35mm which puts the strings much too close together, and even more so when you consider that they are much thicker than guitar strings. For me this second measurement is the important one. Overall nut width tells you nothing about the string spacing. Compare this with the Eastwood Hooky which has a nut width of 50mm and 42mm between the centres of the E strings and is consequently much more playable (for me). As has been said shimming the neck is required to get a decent string break angle over the bridge. The increased downward pressure of the strings on the bridge by changing the break angle also goes along way towards stoping the bridge from wobbling around without needing to fit inserts. Wobbly bridges are fine on Jaguars and Jazzmasters if you want to do MBV impressions, but IMO have no place on a Bass VI. Plus once you've replaced the E and A with something more suited for playing bass, the vibrato mechanism goes from extremely subtle to almost inoperative.

IMO at least half of all YouTube content creators could do with a script, a producer, an editor, and possibly someone less irritating to actually appear in front of the camera.

This is why I never switch on any of my musical technology until I have a really good idea of what I want to do with it.

The neck pocket on my Squier VM Bass VI was plenty snug enough. In fact so much that I chipped the finish trying the get the neck off to fit a shim. The biggest problem for me with all the Fender/Squier designs is that the neck is way too narrow. Mine is narrow compared with my guitars never mind something designed to use with bass strings which are twice as thick. OoI what is the string spacing at the nut (E to E centres) on the Vinterra version?

But in these cases we're always talking about solid bodied instruments with bolt-on necks that have been fitted with shims. And the fact that it can happen in instruments that don't match these criteria points to poor construction rather than the fitting of the shim. From what you have posted it appears to me that the main culprits are poor construction of the neck or poor quality wood used for it coupled with a truss rod design that stops significantly short of the end of the fingerboard. Fitting a shim to an instrument with these attributes may compound the problem but physics says it will happen anyway with or without the presence of a shim. Also I doubt whether a fret at the body end of the neck being 0.005" too tall will affect anyone other than those who favour a very low action and regularly play above the 15th fret.

Or if you are on a real computer you can hover your mouse over the user icon and this handy pop-up pops up...

But you can't rely on solutions that require specific actions by end users. I'm sure your solution works fine for you, but it requires other users to: 1. Use Opera, at least for viewing Basschat, which means for those people who don't already have it downloading and installing it. 2. Know how to turn on VPN and remember to turn it off afterwards to prevent problems with websites to require you to have a UK IP address. For most people this is simply too much effort, and if I was an Imgur user I'd be looking to move to a host whose images will display everywhere.

Thanks, but I still don't see it and I think your physics is flawed in regards to how a shim will exaggerate this problem. I'd also like to see a photograph actually showing this, so I can see it has definitely been caused solely by the presence of as shim and not in any way related to poor construction of the neck or incorrect application of the truss rod.

Can someone post a photo of the "ski jump" and demonstrate conclusively that it has been caused by a non-angled shim?

Imgur is blocked to any UK IP address due to various reasons mostly do to with unwillingness to comply with UK data protection legislation. If you really need to see any images hosted with Imgur you'll need a VPN set to a non-UK location.

To the OP: Even if you could get the image to display for you no-one in the UK will be able to see it without accessing Basschat using a VPN set to a country other than the UK.

IMO DI boxes should be built in a way that makes them as reliable as possible. To that end I don't approve of anything powered by an external PSU unless it is: 1. Part of a permanent pedal board along with the PSU and all the low voltage cabling. 2. The PSU attaches via a locking connector and the low voltage cable is suitably robust and not bell wire that most manufacturers seem to think is OK. In 45 years of gigging IME the most common point of equipment failure is the low voltage side of equipment that has to be set up and plugged each time it is used.

There are some in the UK. Used to own one and IIRC the person I sold it to was also in the UK.

To the OP. How attached are you to the bass this bridge is fitted to? I used to own a Hartke Bass that had one of these and IME it was probably the most complicated bridge I have ever come across to adjust. It might allow individual adjustment in every direction of each individual string, but trying to get each string perfectly adjusted was way too complicated. For a number of reasons I no longer own the bass in question, but the unnecessary complexity of the bridge was definitely a factor in deciding to move it on. If I was to buy another bass with this bridge and liked it overall enough to want to keep and use it, then I would be seriously looking at replacing the bridge with something more user friendly.

Google (or another search engine of your choice) is your friend.

If it's the saddle that has stripped threads, it will require the hole plugging, re-drilling and a new thread making. Is that doable?

But you are far more likely to get the atmosphere and energy at grass roots level that made bands like Rush exciting back in the early 70s, then you are watching some old band on a video screen from a seat at the back of a stadium.

I think the C Bass predates this by at least a couple of years. Chris May old me that the older of the two Original 5-strings I used to own dated from 1983, and the other from 1985.

How is that any different from a radio or TV music programme?

Instead of moaning about how much it costs to see some old dinosaurs in an enormodrome, you could instead go every week end for a year and see some new exciting bands in a small local venue. No need to book tickets months in advance. Most of the time you can rock up on the night and pay your £10 or less to get in. And thanks to Spotify and YouTube you don't even need to take a punt on whether or not you'll like the music, as you can do your research before you choose who to see.