Jono Bolton

Two really nice looking basses there, especially the Jazz. Where did you get the Jazz decal from? I've been searching about for a 70s style Jazz logo to go on my Marcus Miller which currently has a WD neck, and the blank headstock looks a bit wrong IMO.

To be honest, I'm surprised they included it. All reviews have to be approved before they go up. I stand by it all though, for £170 I was decidedly disappointed. Another point that I should've included is that the heel is absolutely massive in terms of depth, from top to bottom. the fingerboard sits a good 5 or 6 mm about the face of the body, meaning the strings are really far away from the body and the pickups, and so the bridge pickup is really weak sounding on the Jazz, and I can't find any luthiers in Glasgow that are willing to shave a few millimetres off for me to bring the strings closer to the body.

I recently bought a WD Jazz neck. Click [url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/BASS_NECK_MAPLE_BMA"]here[/url] to see my review. It's not exactly glowing.

Doesn't running an active bass through the passive input mean you run the risk of damaging the amp?

GAS = Gear Aquisition Syndrome In terms of Jag vs Jazz, I'm not sure what the sonic differences are. My experiences of the Jag are limited to 20 minutes or so with one in a shop and I couldn't work out what all the switches were for, except for obviously the on/off switches.

I've recently put together a Jazz bass using an Allparts neck and a Fender Marcus Miller body. However, once everything was put together I noticed that the heel of the neck is huge, and so the saddles on the bridge have to be raised really high to meet it. The pickups also have to be rasied quite high to meet the strings. The action isn't a problem, it's actually quite low and realtively buzz free, but my main gripes is the fact that the strings are so far from the body. Yes, it does mean that I can really dig in to play, but when I play my Mexican Jazz it's so much smoother to play because the strings are much closer to the body. On the MIM Jazz the neck sits about 4-5mm proud of the body, whereas with the new bass it's probably closer to 8-10mm. As far as I can see, the only option would be to sand or plane a few millimetres from the heel of the neck to bring the fingerboard closer to the body, therefore reducing the height of the bridge saddles, strings and pickups. Does anyone know of any major problems that might be faced by doing so? Has anyone else shared similar problems and if so, how did you reslove it?

That Epiphone looks excellent, I really like the way it looks with the two full sized humbuckers instead of the mini humbucker that the EB-3 has in the bridge. I've long been thinking about doing something similar with one of the Squier Telecaster basses Can't say I approve of your son's choice of shirt though

I gig, or have gigged, with an ABM 210, and my solution was to get 4 rubber feet for the side of the cab so I could sit it vertically. Ashdown did do a 2X12, but not for long, and they're very hard to come by now.

Just spotted this, cheers Nick! I've belatedly left some feedback for you too! I'm just going to drop in a link to [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=20758&hl=jono"]this thread[/url], I had Ped change my user name a few months back but both threads are for my feedback.

Cheers everyone! Just linking this thread to [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=45401&hl=jono"]this one[/url], I had Ped change my user name but both threads are for me.

It's bit late, but a month or so back I sold Nick my (formerly his) MIA P Bass. Quick payment - actually, early payment! - and was really understanding when I was trying to work out some work/courier issues to get a collection sorted. Great guy!

I bought a Fender Marcus Miller Jazz body from Matthew and it's immaculate, well packed and fairly priced too. Buy from him with confidence!

Today I changed the jack socket on my MIM Jazz from the original stock one to a Switchcraft one. However, when I took the control plate off, having expected to see 2 wires connected to the socket, I was bit surprised to find that there was just one connected to it. If you look at the diagram below, I'm missing the one that goes to the ground tab of the socket from the top of the tone control. [attachment=22854:std_jazz_bass.jpg] Does it make a difference that that wire isn't there? I've had the bass for over 4 years now but I've never really looked at the socket before so I have to assume that it's never been there. The tab certainly looks like there's never been any solder on it.

I had a similar problem with my Jazz, which turned out be due to the fact that I'd would the string the wrong way. How I missed this, I have no idea but I decided I needed a new nut and the tech I took it to didn't spot it either, or did, and just wound it the same I had to con me out of £25. As Neepheid says, more windings sounds like the way forward. The more windings there are, the more obtuse the string angle will be, giving a better 'break' over the nut and reducing the likelihood of the string jumping out again. If that is the solution then it means you avoid forking out to see if solutions 1 or 2 will fix it, which they may not.