bertbass

One of these. http://www.shergold.co.uk/images/gallery/hpc_custdbl124_1.jpg

And I thought it was just us.

They're not that expensive to buy. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-AUSTRALIAN-ABALONE-Luthier-Dots-Inlay-Fret-Side-Marker-All-Sizes-/160726539926?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var&hash=item256c0c5e96&_uhb=1

[b] You scored 26/30 and 27/30.[/b]

I used to consider Rics to be the top of the tree and that if you owned one then you had made it but then punk came along and destroyed that illusion.

The pcb fragment has nothing to do with the battery clip, it has broken off from the other half of a pcb and it looks like the one on the right in your photo. Should be an easy job to repair if you're any good with a soldering iron. Just glue the board back together and bridge the tracks. If you're not, then I'm sure that there is someone you know or a luthier could fix it. If you end up not being able to get it fixed, if you could get the broken bits to me, I could make you a new pcb.

I always play and sing on automatic and have done so for years but the moment I think about it, it can easily go wrong.

I love LED lighting. I no longer melt on stage from the heat of the lights and it's possible to put on a great show in a small venue with a small mains supply.

Bright is subjective. You want as bright a stage as you can get. You are the stars of the show you know and you do want the audience to see you and if you are blinded by the light, sounds like a good title for a song, then try not to look in to the lights. LED lights seem incredibly bright if you look at them but have a tendency to nowhere near as bright when viewed from behind, ie, from the audience. We position our lights either side of the stage as far forward and as high as we can get them and it works well.

DIY road worn kit. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-Oxide-Sandpaper-Rolls-All-Grades-60-80-100-120-Fine-Medium-Coarse-/320882396840?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&var=510060279285&hash=item4ab614cea8&_uhb=1#ht_794wt_1170

There's nothing new under the sun. http://www.vampower.com/MK3_jack_pack.html

Try putting the cab on a chair, table, beer crates or anything to lift it off the floor and see if it's any better. It's the free option and if the problem goes away, look at more permanent options.

Talking of the Ramones, I love this too. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aTjCvF4rQhI&feature=related[/media]

Love the Ramones version. [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdRFeprn_xc[/media]

Blue Cheer, that's a blast from the past. Used to cover that in 68 - 69

Here, http://customs.hmrc.gov.uk/channelsPortalWebApp/channelsPortalWebApp.portal?_nfpb=true&propertyType=document&_pageLabel=pageTravel_ShowContent&id=HMCE_CL_000014 Then here, http://www.dutycalculator.com/help_center/do-i-have-to-pay-duty-and-vat-on-used-second-hand-or-refurbished-items/

Add a .com to the band name and check them out.

Used to use them years ago and thought they were great but instead of the brightness going over time it seemed as though the bass slowly disappeared. Strange.

That's when I did my heavy thing, all originals though. No effects at all just a valve head(s) and 4x12s.

Here you go, from about 2.40. From the man himself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ruhWV_IVu8s

It's the horn protection lighting up and nothing to worry about. Horn crossovers have a bulb in the circuit that lights up to take excessive power away from the horn and stop it from blowing is the simple answer.

Congratulations. A job well jobbed.

It's always a buyers market when I've got no money.

Do you mean the braided wires? If the braided wires have come adrift of the very fine single copper wires inside the cone, then yes you can fix it. Done it myself a few times. I am assuming that the terminal end of braided wires are floating around on a broken bit of brown stuff that should be fixed to a spoke of the speaker. If this is the case it would be best to fix the actual speaker terminals to a bit of plastic or something and re-attach it to the speaker chassis. Hot melt glue may be your friend here or a nut and bolt or pop rivet. Using a small craft knife, scratch away at the black stuff covering the end of the seriously thin wires inside the cone that attach to the braided wires. When the thin wires are exposed, push the braided wires back through the holes in the cone and solder to the thin wires. There may be some black stuff on the ends of the braided wires as well and this will need to be scraped off. Once you've soldered the wires together, check that the speaker works and fill the holes in the cone to secure the braiding and cover any exposed seriously thin wire as well so that it doesn't move around and break again. A magnifying glass and a strong light is very helpful in your quest. I hope this helps. Good luck. PS I've fixed microphones capsules with broken voice coil wires in the same way. The things you have to do when you're poor!