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JPJ

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Everything posted by JPJ

  1. Hmmm this could be a very interesting experiment Personally, I'm still in the 'jury's out' camp when it comes to whether the wood alone is the source of either 'growl' or 'brightness' etc. Most basses made today will be from two or more pieces of wood glued together, so in theory, the glue is also 'contributing' to the overall sound. Warwick basses, famed for their growl use wenge but the also use a separate bridge and tailpiece, active electronics and very often, the growlier ones are neck thru's. Contrast that with a typical F type with the BBOT bridge, passive pickups and bolt on necks and there are a lot of variables between the string and the amp to affect the 'sound'. I accept that neck thru's are a very different beast to bolt-on's and, personally, I prefer bolt-on's as the amount of detail you hear with a neck thru shows up my sloppy playing After saying all of that, I would just go with a piece of timber that is the same as the rest of the body and make a structural repair. I can't imagine that the amount of wood that you are adding versus the amount of wood remaining from the original body would be sufficient to make a noticeable change to the sound of the bass.
  2. Somebody may have changed the speaker (from 8 ohm to 4ohm) to get the full output without an extension cab and if they did, they've also gone on to do a cracking mod to the extension speaker socket to ensure you can't plug in an extension cab and inadvertently present too low a speaker load to the amp.
  3. [quote name='Lozz196' timestamp='1409309783' post='2538511'] Think this may well have been mine at some point. If all other buyers fall through bear me in mind Nik, wouldn`t mind this one at all. [/quote] I don't think so Lozz, I know the original owner who bought it new from Jorg and I was the second owner before I sold it on to Nik. It is one hell of a cab though, and if I had the space and money, I'd be joining the queue to own it again.
  4. Cheers for that, turns out your correct I emailed Rothko and Frost this morning via their website and received a reply in 10 minutes confirming that all is ok in terms of shooting nitrocellulose over cellulose. After sending my question, I also found some really useful information on their website regarding spraying, finishing and polishing here [url="http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/wood-finishes/"]http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/wood-finishes/[/url]
  5. I think I may have hit on a problem with my latest self-build. I intended spraying the back and sides of the body using a black cellulose paint and then doing the maple top using a combination of stain and tinted nitro-cellulose lacquer. However, I've just remembered that the two are not really compatible are they? I'm sure I've read somewhere that you can spray one over the other but I can't remember which way round is ok and which way is a non-starter. So is it cellulose over nitrocellulose or the other way?
  6. For Sale only - No trades thanks I recently assembled this rig comprising of an SWR Marcus Miller Preamp coupled to a QSC PLX1602 power amp giving a massive 1600w bridge mono into a 4 ohm load. I intended replacing my SWR SM1500 with this rig, but having had a chance to A/B the two rigs on a couple of gigs I've decided to stick with the SM1500 and I can't afford to have two pro level rigs sitting around. The preamp offers two inputs switchable from the front panel, with pad, mute, gain, and SWR's aural enhancer circuit. The tone controls comprise a tone stack defeat switch, bass, low mid, mid, high mid, and high tone controls with the low, mid and high mid being semi-parametric on dual concentric pots. The preamp also includes a fully adjustable compressor featuring threshold, ratio, attack and release controls along with a switch to defeat the compressor and another to place the compressor either before or after the EQ section. Front panel controls are completed by an effects blend control for the foot switchable effects loop, and a solo boost and bass intensifier circuit both of which are again foot switchable. On the back panel, there is a preamp out on both XLR and jack sockets with ground lift switch, a DI out again on both XLR and jack sockets, along with a ground lift switch, a 180 degree phase switch, a DI level control, and a switch giving either direct, post compression or post compression/eq DI signal. The back panel is completed with jack sockets for the supplied four button foot switch, a tuner out, a parallel input, and the effects loop send and return. There is a great series of youtube videos of Marcus Miller demonstrating the features of this preamp Not too much to say about the power amp other than it is a professional power amp. There are dip switches on the back panel allowing you to configure how the amp functions including paralleled inputs, stereo or bridge mono, a low pass filter on/off along with a switch to select either 30 or 50Hz for the filter. Inputs are on XLR's and jacks and outputs are on Speakon's or binding posts. Oh and its loud and its powerful. I will include the original four button foot switch and original SWR foot switch cable, the short XLR cable linking the preamp to the power amp, the two mains leads and a four pole speakon cable to access the bridge mono mode of the power amp, along with a photocopy of the SWR manual and the original QSC manual. I would prefer to sell as a complete rig rather than separate. Racked up in the included Boschma flight case (almost brand new) the rig weighs about 22kg so again, I'd prefer collection from just north of Newcastle upon Tyne but I am willing to ship at the buyers risk and expense. I will also include the original four button foot switch and original SWR foot switch cable, the short XLR cable linking the preamp to the power amp, the two mains leads and a four pole speakon cable to access the bridge mono mode of the power amp. I also have this advertised locally. Any questions please ask. [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1163_zps0794f760.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1164_zpsdd3cddcc.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1165_zps8deb2771.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1166_zps004d8ddc.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1168_zps008ea348.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1167_zps63fef6cf.jpg.html"][/url]
  7. [quote name='Dad3353' timestamp='1408663270' post='2532423'] An excellent read; thanks for sharing. [/quote] Fascinating stuff!
  8. I'm surprised no one has mentioned the PJB combos. The briefcase is 100w, 2 x5" and will hold its own against a quiet drummer. Add DI support through the PA and you've got a viable small combo solution. I've used mine in rehearsals and believe me, we are not a quiet band!
  9. I'm such a geek, I find threads like this one fascinating. At the end of the day a loudspeaker is simply a piston device designed to move a volume of air. The fascinating bit for me is the interconnection/reaction between the loudspeaker, its enclosure and the surrounding environment. I'd love the chance to play my bass through my amp (known variables) through a variety of speaker sizes, each housed in a box optimised for: a) the chosen speaker; amplifying bass guitar, in one of those acoustic chambers
  10. Ooh matron, tissues quick! What a lovely piece of work, I'm loving that top! Congrats on a stunning looking bass.
  11. So what am I 'hearing' because in a blind test I swear I could tell the difference between a 10", 12" and a 15" speaker
  12. What a looker! All that natural wood and black hardware, it just looks like a timeless classic already. Congratulations on a lovely piece of low end hardware.
  13. [quote name='Prime_BASS' timestamp='1407703929' post='2523239'] I'm just going through my emails to gather all my pics [/quote] Tease!
  14. That's a shame about the RPC, its not something I've tried (yet) but I know some people get great results others less so. I'm still perfecting my rattle can spray techniques and I'm getting pretty close to a pro finish so I think I'll stick with this method. One thing, I always check with the supplier to make sure that all the elements of my finishes work together i.e. stains, sealers, paints and lacquers. There is a lot of contradictory mythology on the internet about what works and doesn't work so its best to check first. Having said all that, I am liking that sanded black finish and I recon it will look lush once its glossed. By way of inspiration, here's a similar finish done by a local(ish) professional luthier.
  15. JPJ

    JPJ Build No. 2

    Today's update: Wood Butchery Complete. So today I've made a template and routed out a shallow recess for the Badass bridge. Why? Well the Badass was 'hanging' over the forearm chamfer a bit more than I felt comfortable with so, out with the trusty router. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1128_zpsda94a8aa.jpg[/IMG] Once I was happy with that I moved on to completing the opening for the jack socket. I'm going with a Neutrik locking socket so I created a little cutout to recess the socket baseplate into and finished off the inside of the opening in the control cavity. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1131_zps9477b1dd.jpg[/IMG] I then marked out and drilled and countersunk for the neck bolts and ferrules, which was a bit of a chew on as I didn't have a 12mm drill bit. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1129_zps17c801fd.jpg[/IMG] Finally, I drilled the hole from the pickup rout to the control cavity, and the battery box to the control cavity and also made a control cavity cover from some BWB plastic I bought for this purpose back in 2011. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1130_zps97ee1579.jpg[/IMG] Then I gave the whole body the first finish sanding to 240 grit, making sure that all the curves and edge radius's were free from any flat spots or edges. That is all the woodwork complete. Next up will be sanding through the grades, grain filling the tulip wood, staining the maple, and then painting the tulip wood and lacquering the maple. None of those steps are very photogenic, so I guess the next update will either be once the finish is on, or when I cock the finish up and throw the whole thing in the scrap bin
  16. JPJ

    JPJ Build No. 2

    Little update - managed a few hours in the shed tonight. Earlier today I sat down and wrote a list of the things I have left to do to complete this project and I was a little shocked when I realised just how much is left to do! Anyway, after spending yesterday with my old drawing instruments working out the control layout and the control cavity dimensions, tonight I set about the body with a combination of drills and the trusty router. First step was to pre drill holes for the four knobs and one switch. Having done that, I then removed material where the four pots will sit using a 25mm drill bit from the rear. Then using the router in 4mm steps, I removed the rest of the material necessary to create the control cavity and battery box. [url="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JPJ/media/IMG_1125_zps6a6658e1.jpg.html"][/url] And a final shot showing the battery box in situ. I've also drilled for the Neutrik locking jack socket but as thats still a work in progress I'll save the pictures for the next update. Good news is thats three of the fifteen remaining tasks complete
  17. I've recently gone from the 2 x 410 to a 610, all SWR. The reason was the same as discreet, I got tired of hauling the two 410's. The reason for going to the 610 was I wanted a single 4 ohm cab, that I'd still hear on a stage dominated by two 412/100w equipped guitarists. Yes, its a heavy cab, but with the tilt back wheels its easier to move around than the two 410's on the flat. I can lift it myself in/out of the car when needed, and its reduced the number of trips to/from the van/car too. Sound-wise, on bigger stages I really can't tell the difference between the Snr and the two Golly setup. On smaller stages and at lower volumes you can sense that the cab is idling, wanting to give more than your asking for, but it still sounds tight. The spare parts issue does bother me, but when I blew two drivers in one of my Golly's I replaced all four with Eminence Deltalite II's and the cab took on a whole new personality with much more bottom end and a lovely creamy upper mid range projection, so if the same happens in the Snr then I'll probably go down the same route albeit at 5.33 ohms.
  18. Heard a rumour that Acoustic are back in business stateside? Richard Turner of Blackberry Smoke talks about using them in the states on this video [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Pix9jD0PJs"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Pix9jD0PJs[/url] unless he's referring to old stuff?
  19. We've got a couple of the Behringer 12" 300w powered monitors. Got them for under £200 each (can't remember exactly how much they were) and they do the job very well indeed.
  20. Much of the established wisdom about mixing drivers comes from a time when a typical 15" had no more excursion than the 10" it was under resulting in the 15 being little more than an amp stand for the 10's. I'm not sure that this is still the case as the drivers we are seeing these days have much better excursion and hence air moving capability. I'm sure one of the more knowledgeable forum members will either confirm or confound my 'new' theory :-)
  21. Now that is one sexy bass! This just proves it doesn't have to be all exotic woods to produce a timeless looking instrument. Congrats, that's a hell of a bass you've got yourself there :-)
  22. [quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1406901782' post='2515779'] Perhaps a cheeky five-string Ric-inspired bass... [/quote] BANNED! Seriously though, great work on the neck. I've made a few bodies now and I have it in my head to make a neck next but I doubt I'll achieve this standard. Well done, go buy yourself a beer you deserve it
  23. JPJ

    JPJ Build No. 2

    Tonights progress and in truth I got a lot more done than I thought I would. Firstly, I worked on finishing the 'gut cut' on the back before moving on to round over the edge of the 'gut cut' and the forearm chamfer. I do these by hand with sandpaper as the router tends to make a bit of a mess of them due to the sloped surfaces. Then as the night was still young, I moved on to rout out both the neck pocket and the pickup. This was made a lot easier as I'd kept the template from the first time around but, because I'd already glued the maple top on, it was a bit of a heart-in-mouth operation as the business end of the template was only held with double-sided tape. [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1119_zps05d92ebd.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1120_zpsd71b4f54.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v208/JPJ/IMG_1118_zps15a6b91f.jpg[/IMG] I was going to move on to rout out the control cavity, but Mrs JPJ objected to the router noise because 'its ten o'bloody clock!'
  24. [quote name='fretmeister' timestamp='1406800712' post='2514775'] I think part of it is hollow - send Dawn (at Status) an email. She's a lovely lady and very helpful. [/quote] Doh! Wise words indeed and email duly despatched
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