tauzero

Conventionally, the dots on unlined are on the fret positions and the dots on lined are between the unfrets. I had my Sei lined fretless re-dotted so the dots are on the unfrets.

Coincidentally, that's also the weight (if you're using medieval measurements).

Schaller seems to have improved one part while making the other part worse. The old locking bit had a single non-locking nut holding the lock bit to the strap. The new locking bit has a circular nut that can be tightened by threading an allen key through a hole drilled at a chord through the nut, and then secured by tightening a grub screw (possibly with the same allen key). So that's an improvement. The new buttons, as has been said a few times, have a fixed screw which reduces their flexibility. Boston do a truly compatible straplock which used to have two nuts on each lock, so the second nut would lock the first in place, but I think now has only one. I don't think any of the Challers/Chostons that I've bought have turned out to be compatible with the real thing.

There are two power settings for the transmitter. If it's in power save mode, the signal won't be as strong. Press SELECT for two seconds to go into setup, then press it again to go to page 2, and use VALUE to toggle between Hi and Lo. Of course, if it's already on Hi, that wasn't the issue. Press SELECT two or three more times to get out of setup.

I never knew Othello played guitar.

He's got no idea how to use commas, has he?

It's a way of determining how committed the drummer is to the band.

If it was wound on the tuner the right way, it would be a lot better.

Those of us who favour neck-through basses do not have this avenue.

I meant to ask about effectlåda - what sound card are you using on the Pi 4, and how are you controlling it? And evidently we both evaluated our keyboard needs identically, I have exactly the same Akai MPK mini (and in red too!).

I'm sure I remember some valveholders with clips that went over the valve - I've never encountered a KT66 in the flesh but have met up with a few ECC series and 12AX7s. Would it be preferable to use those, so your 12AX7s don't become KT66-seeking projectiles, or are the valveholder bases sufficiently strong to resist earthquake-type forces?

I can put together a website which doesn't have "Click to enter" as the homepage.

I was refraining from mentioning that 😁

It would appear that the pedal replacing it is the HX Stomp (I've just compared the specs of the discontinued one with the one they're selling for £499). Having just had a search to try and find what's happening, there's a couple of posts to various places that pretty firmly squash rumours of the Stomp's demise and there don't seem to be any rumours of an update in the pipeline.

Could you rig up some sort of jig to hold the pickup upside down over the strings of another bass, to move it around and see what difference the position made?

I like the way you've echoed the top and bottom horns in the headstock too.

It also appears to be for an 8' length (or 244cm in proper money). I would expect the failure mode to involve some lateral flex, which would decrease on a shorter length of timber as there's less length to flex, so the 450kg limit would be increased. But that's just speculation on my part.

Sei headless basses - put a capo on fret 1 (or where it would be on the fretless), hold string down and check height, twiddle allen key in truss rod end conveniently located at end of neck until height is right. They have something of a mind of their own as to whether to move or not, so I'm ready to adjust them any time. The Flamboyant has been getting used and hasn't shown any sign of moving in the heat.

It might work. Things that make it more complicated: there are four strings (I counted) at the front so a single string at the back would need to have four times the tension in it (I'm ignoring the basic strength of the neck). Also, the strings are offset from the face of the neck whereas the truss string is inset into the rear so the torque from the strings pulling forwards would be greater than the truss string pulling backwards assuming that the truss string tension = sum of string tensions. Things making it easier: you're reinforcing a reasonably strong neck, not providing the entire countering tension. Probably. Stupid idea #1: drill a couple of longitudinal holes and put metal pipes down them Stupid idea #2: the same, but with carbon fibre rods

https://goo.gl/maps/q83b8hdyDCVyPek78 if you want to look on it from above

Balsa is a hardwood, of course.

As your budget seems to be constantly expanding, you could also look out for an Ibanez SRF700 - fret-marked but not lined, lots of sound options. You might be able to pick one up for £500ish, less if you're lucky.

Yes, presumably it's a zero radius fretboard as otherwise the frets would have to be like barrels. You can make out the frets flush with the fretboard in that video. That's why I thought a zero fret and cam to move the bridge height would have potential, although I suspect it would put everything a bit out of tune. I suspect he has a very light touch, as you'd generally have a little more relief in a fretted than a fretless neck and the mwah in that video on the fretless bit shows the neck has very little relief.

Or have a zero fret which had two levels and a cam of some sort under the bridge. Given what the rest of it must be like to put together, probably relatively simple...

Hipshot adaptors from the UK? https://www.btnmusic.co.uk/product/hipshot-licensed-ultralite-adapter-bushings/ - out of stock though. Or maybe plain bearings - https://www.bearingstation.co.uk/products/bearings/plain-bearings-rod-ends/permaglide/cylindrical-bush?atts=650%2C651