neepheid

Well, I'm glad it's all sorted out now. Confrontations, even done at distance are never comfortable.

[quote name='Soliloquy' post='1230085' date='May 13 2011, 04:06 PM']Public transport can be really cheap nowadays. I just did a search on Megabus, a return from London to Edinburgh for a random day next week is £28. That's going one day, and coming back the next. If you're flexible it's cheaper, and a lot cheaper than being ripped off by some weaselly conman on Ebay. Another example Aberdeen to London is £40 return, a long trip, but again, it's better than being ripped off.[/quote] Time is money. It is not cheaper for me to take a day off work (because that's when the cheap tickets will be - week days) to then sit on a bus for anything up to 10 hours each way, for what could amount to an unfavourable tyre kick and a no thank you. Or maybe someone who doesn't even show up at the rendezvous point (I've read about that happening to someone on here). I'll do my research and hope for the best. I can fix a lot of things for myself these days, and if I can't (or can't find someone who can) then I'll take the hit of moving it on with issues, or part it out. Even that's still cheaper than watching grain after grain of sand trickle through the hourglass of life on a bus/train and end up doing it all again on the way back home with nothing to show for it. How was your day off? Rubbish - I went to London to get a bass and all I got was a bad back and pressure sores!

[quote name='Soliloquy' post='1229960' date='May 13 2011, 02:29 PM']It just goes to show that you should never, ever buy a bass unseen or untested.[/quote] Disagree strongly with that. Being geographically challenged as I am coupled with the esoteric tastes I have, I find myself with little choice other than to buy from afar. I've got 5 keepers. The few I've had problems with, I've returned without major hassles (just some minor squirming on a couple of occasions).

Is it ok to dislike them both equally?

[quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='1227202' date='May 11 2011, 09:58 AM']I'll skip the Hartke ones though thanks I don't like anything to do with Hartke. Never been a fan of their equipment.[/quote] That's up to you, but I wouldn't be surprised if the only involvement Hartke have in these strings is allowing the printing of their logo on the front of the pack. They're great strings for the money and I use them almost exclusively.

[quote name='burray' post='1228647' date='May 12 2011, 12:27 PM']I'm struggling to sell the bass in my sig, which surprised me as it's great. Thing is, I'm hesitant to hit eBay as it's a bit more hassle and I'd rather it go to someone from here who will look after it and use it properly. Ho hum.[/quote] If you're insistent on selling it here then you'll have to drop your price, as no-one is biting at the price you have it advertised at currently. I reckon you'll get a good price for a Yamaha BB414 on eBay - they're held in high regard and don't come up as often as you might think. Search for Yamaha bass right now and you'll get wall to wall RBX models with the occasional BB and TRB (as well as trombones and recorders ). Looking back, I've bought and sold a fair bit on here but I have to say that in recent times (like the last year or so) I find myself getting more and more annoyed with low-balling chancers who will annoy you over the sake of a fiver, or seem to think that postage costs don't exist. It's really beginning to put me off - so much so that I've been preferring to arrange deals locally (gumtree/other localised fora). Maybe it's just that everyone's skint, but the chancers irritate the hell out of me as I find it rather insulting given that I take the time to research my prices and put stuff up at a reasonable value with good photos and honest descriptions, pride myself on bombproof (or at least courierproof) packaging and prompt postage. Maybe it's just because BC is getting bigger - more people == more chancers.

[quote name='Robert Manning' post='1228424' date='May 12 2011, 08:51 AM']260771411942 250807357152 Do you reckon there genuine gibson pickups? and thanks guys!, ive sighned up for that forum! waiting for my discussion forum the admin! thanks guys![/quote] If they are genuine then they are most likely from a later non-Bartolini Les Paul bass. Thunderbirds have never had guitar humbucker sized pickups with plastic mounting rings.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='1228381' date='May 12 2011, 07:38 AM']Lets just say that with your heads-up and a little research I've established that your Aberdeen bassist selling an Overwater in this unusual colour shares the same first name with the Aberdeen bassist who sold me an Overwater in the same unusual colour... in the same time scale! I'm not guessing that it is a coincidence but right at this minute I am giving my seller the opportunity to see if someone else in his household has maybe signed for the bass. If that isn't the case and I don't have my refund sometime soon then I'll dig a little deeper into this. [/quote] We could gather a small [i]posse basschatus[/i] and pay him a visit

I try to set up my basses as low as I can WITHOUT fret buzz. I think it sounds horrible acoustically and really irritates me, regardless of how little of it transfers into amplified sound. Yes, I'm a relative beginner, but I don't see how that's relevant to what is simply a personal preference? I just like my strings to ring clear and true.

TV Jones Thundertron? Not huge (guitar humbucker sized), but definitely shiny: [url="http://www.tvjones.com/pickups/thundertron.html"]http://www.tvjones.com/pickups/thundertron.html[/url] Lipstick pickups are shiny - Kent Armstrong do a Jazz type one: [url="http://www.wdmusic.com/split_tube_jazz_bass_chrome_front_pickup.html"]http://www.wdmusic.com/split_tube_jazz_bas...ont_pickup.html[/url] eBay finds: Artec small humbucker: [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/Artec-Mini-Humbucker-Violin-Bass-Neck-Pickup-Chrome-/160558992924"]http://cgi.ebay.com/Artec-Mini-Humbucker-V...e-/160558992924[/url] Artec soapbar: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150511742166"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=150511742166[/url] Hofner Diamond or staple top pickups (like on violin bass): [url="http://www.projectguitarparts.co.uk/Pages/hofnerparts.html"]http://www.projectguitarparts.co.uk/Pages/hofnerparts.html[/url] (scroll to near the bottom)

Just get a pedal tuner and use it just before you play and even during your set. Then it doesn't matter what happens in your gig bag between your house and the venue. You're just causing problems for yourself if you don't. In my opinion it's the single most useful thing you can get after the bass itself and amplification. I'm not suggesting that tuning forks are wrong. I am suggesting they are impractical for the pub gig because they rely on you hearing the sound generated by the resonance created by the vibrations of the tuning fork. It is true though - you should try to be able to tune by ear to a reference note, it's good practice for your pitch recognition. But may I be so bold as to venture that it's an activity for your own practice time rather than at the gig.

You could try ebay items: 130514356368 130514357150 They're saying USA only, but if you don't ask, you don't get and all that Additional - EMG have brought out a T-bird shaped pickup: [url="http://www.emgpickups.com/products/category/260/2"]http://www.emgpickups.com/products/category/260/2[/url] Pretty sure Bartolini do one as well - T4CBC

Another thing I heard they don't like is jack plugs with the sprung loaded collar on them like these: Could be BS, but that's what I seem to remember hearing, and I certainly try to avoid using such plugs in my G&L.

I'll be damned if my Gibson Victory Artist is getting burned again after all the effort put into restoring it!

Nope, yet another fail for me.

[quote name='DaveB' post='1219898' date='May 4 2011, 02:35 PM']Right folks i'm gonna need to get my only 5 string bass fixed or get a new 5 string bass as i've been called up for two bands, like buses none then 3 came along, had to turn one down due to lack of time! Anyway the bass is a Yamaha RBX375 which some of you may have seen my rants about it. To cut a very long story short the barrell jack is knackerd yet again on it, the electrics inside have been bodged once already and are on the blink again. Basically the bass is ungigable. So i'm thinking: *Change the jack barrell for one of those ones that's actually screwed into the body on a plate *Rip all the electronics and pickups out and replace with decent pickups and EQ board. My question, is this actually worth it on a £300 bass or should I use it for firewood and look for another bass? I'll do the jack socket anyway as i'll then be ok to practice with but the electronics will need to be sorted asap. This only needs last another year till the Roscoe fund is ready so I don't know what to do [/quote] Worth is a relative, personal thing. I put the best part of £200 worth of EMG stuff in an Epiphone Les Paul Standard I picked up for about £170 if memory serves. Am I mad? Maybe, but it turned out to be one of my favourite basses. If you like the neck and the basic sound of the pickups then it's probably worth trying to fix it up. The most cost effective thing to do in the pursuit of reliability is probably to rip the EQ out and rewire it passive VVTT. Next up is replacing the EQ. The pickups are more than likely working fine and it would probably push the cost way beyond what is sensible (although see above) to replace them, not to mention the ballache of trying to find ones which fit in those particular holes. If you're firewooding it then I'll give it a home

Gibson basses have never been in fashion, strictly speaking. Small pockets of resistance against the mainstream out there, like my bedroom

To remove excess relief in the neck you tighten the truss rod, yes.

I know your predicament, been band-less since August last year. Ultimately it's been a good thing - I kept busy with two or three random gigs in the down time and embarked upon bass lessons. I think I've just about joined a new band, so I'll keep my fingers crossed. Hope you find something soon mannie.

Chord progression app for Android/iPhone: [url="http://chordbot.com/"]http://chordbot.com/[/url] There's a free and paid version. I think the paid one has more comping styles and the automatic "random" generator.

[quote name='silddx' post='1213713' date='Apr 28 2011, 12:16 PM']Who wouldn't have GAS for this [/quote] Me

[quote name='Ross' post='1213686' date='Apr 28 2011, 11:59 AM']Update: I have a lead, my mates reckons his dad has one I can borrow, going to investigate for me tomorrow. Cheers for the guidance, what about neck holes? How do I get those right? (Also need to drill holes in the neck baring in mind)[/quote] Is this all Fender style stuff? If so, use the neck plate as a guide. Place the neck plate where it ought to go, mark the holes on the body with that. MAKE SURE YOU PUT SOME SCRAP WOOD IN THE NECK POCKET IF YOU'RE DRILLING THROUGH FROM THE BACK OR PUT SOME SCRAP WOOD UNDER THE BODY IF YOU'RE DRILLING INTO THE NECK POCKET FIRST. I wrote that in caps for a reason. You could get some horrible splintering when the bit breaks through if you don't give it something to drill into. Drill the holes. Once you have the holes in the body, put the neck in the pocket and put a neck screw into each hole in turn until it makes a mark on the neck heel, hence marking the location for drilling the neck. Be careful of the radius of the neck when drilling, it'll make it want to rock slightly. MARK THE DEPTH CAREFULLY on the drill bit with something obvious and visible like insulation tape - you don't want to drill right through! Choose your drill bit size carefully - test by drilling into some scrap wood and screwing the neck screws into that. You want it tight, but not so tight that you risk chewing the head when you screw it in, or worse splitting the wood when trying to force a screw into a too small hole. Obviously you don't want it to be too big either, or the screw won't bite! Good luck

Not saying you should buy this as it's a little dear for a one-off fix, but it might give some ideas on how to try to resolve the situation without truss rod removal or neck replacement: [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for_Truss_rods/Truss_Rod_Rescue_Kit.html"]http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_...Rescue_Kit.html[/url]

[quote name='Ross' post='1213656' date='Apr 28 2011, 11:26 AM']I don't want them to do it for me neccessarily, maybe loan me the drill/ show me the proper way to do it? Seems daft to invest in a pillar drill to drill these few holes, if I can't find a kind person to loan me one what about using a spirit level, taping the bit to show where I stop drilling, and [b]hoping for the best?[/b][/quote] To answer your original question ("Any way to ensure the holes will be straight?") - with all the best will in the world, you can't stay 100% still. If you're willing to accept your place as the weak link in this setup and prepared to make mistakes and deal with the consequences (which basically involve drilling out wrong holes to the size of whatever (hardwood) dowel you have, filling with dowel and trimming flush) then go for it. As far as the bridge positioning goes this is how I understand it (no doubt someone will be along to correct me if I've got this wrong). Fit the neck first. Only once the neck is fitted will you be able to determine the correct position for the bridge relative to the scale length. Assuming you're going for a standard 34" scale then you measure back 34" from the edge of the nut nearest the fingerboard (or 17" back from the 12th fret) and mark that. Adjust the bridge so that the G saddle is as far forward as the adjustment screw allows safely, then wind it back a small amount (let's say leave it at 90-95% of its full forward travel to allow for possible oops). The point where the string would go over the G saddle should be at the 34" mark you made. All the other saddles will be further back when you adjust for intonation. For sideways positioning, I would refer you to a trick I've seen my mate Rich use - run a length of sewing thread through the E and G nut slots (anchor it at the headstock with blu-tac or loop it through a tuner hole and tie a knot or something) then use these threads to show were the E and G saddles on the bridge ought to be.