LukeFRC

I used to get paid to go to gigs as a student... so I saw a lot of live music. Generally I would make sure I caught the bands, whatever the genre... Fightstar however I went into the basement of the venue and sat with my fingers in my ears till they finished.

It's japanese, probably fender, rebadged. From the auction we have no way of knowing if it's domestic market stuff, or the more desirable export stuff. If I had an early JV but someone had changed the logo I would be letting people know it's a JV00xxx serial - that the seller isn't, and the winding on the tuners would make me seriously doubt it's a 1982. My guess would be a later export JV at best. If it's a good bass it's a good bass- but it's not going to be some vintage collectable bass with the value to match - so if you're buying it on the basis that it's a good bass to play that's fine - if you're after a cheap way of getting a collectable and or nice bass - there's more interesting basses out there in that price bracket IMO (speaking as a former JV owner who loves them!)

Glockenklang

I quite like the looks - the T bass was first bass I had GAS for - never actually played one mind!

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1447519480' post='2908297'] Another benefit that occurs to me of going with rounded ports is that altering the cabinet volume becomes a lot easier than with a slot port. It should be a fairly simple job to recalculate the port lengths for a (slightly) smaller box using the usual free software. [/quote] That was what I was thinking... if the the plans were for 18mm and someone bought 15mm ply then it's a relatively simple set of calculations with tube posts - with a shelf port it's way more complex....

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1447337716' post='2906836'] Yes, the 18mm slotted which is the green one on the graph. Stevie's initial thought was that it was the driver, since the volume of the box and the tuning were the same. It now looks like it is something about the box which is creating the resonance. Frustrating but I'm glad we found it before publishing the design. We are investigating..... I'm hoping it is something simple. [/quote] forgive me for daftness - and maybe it's something simple - but maybe the ports and 15mm are a better method of construction? (and lighter)

Im lost which one has the resonance? The 18mm slot port?

[quote name='Skybone' timestamp='1447171634' post='2905512'] So all the Environmental Science I learned on my degree course, and all the associated text books I used, were obviously a load of old tosh. All the CITB Health & Safety qualifications, courses & literature I use for work, and HAVE to renew every three years, are obviously tosh as well. It's not just "stuff I saw on Wikiedia". [/quote] Does Health and Safety qualifications cover [font="helvetica, arial, sans-serif"][color="#282828"]radiated power vs perceived volume? I've just a feeling Bill might end up using his physics and acoustical engineering knowledge more than once every 3 years....[/color][/font]

[quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1447121434' post='2905090'] So where do my 200 Trace Elliot valve watts sit in all of this? (Chuckles and watches from afar ) [/quote] oh you have no idea how substandard your watts are. Tell you what ill help you out and buy your amp off you so you can buy something better? The things we do to help each other on here

[quote name='RandomBass' timestamp='1447108051' post='2905030'] And that's exactly what I do with my puny Trace Elliot 200watt head, into kappalite drivers. [/quote] Trace Elliot watts are not the same as any other watts. OT but how does it sound into the Kappalites? a lot of the kappalite equipped cabs you see on the web seem to have people put hundreds of watts into them - my wee walkabout cannae do that!

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1447056882' post='2904369'] That's a very good point. I guess not - I'd be changing for the sake of it, really. [/quote] i keep seeing rigs and going ooooo - but then wonder what it would improve over what ive got

[quote name='wateroftyne' timestamp='1446931549' post='2903647'] Heh... yeah, that's the problem. I dunno - I might really like this when I hear it, but (as we've chatted about via PM) it needs to be a real advance from what I've heard already to ring my bell... [/quote] ... and in your case, regardless of the power unit used - what would it do that the walkabout doesn't?

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1447006449' post='2904105'] I pretty much know what to expect and so I've made a good decision over time. I've never bought anything and sold it on in weeks because it didn't work. There tend to be tone bias in things like Maple and RW but anything you buy is on its own merits. I never think all bass models will sound a certain way until I play them. There are so many variations in the same model which is why I tend to groan when people ask which is the best bass... no one knows until you play them in context. I'm a great believer in construction making more of a difference ..or as much as the woods... and the better construction and materials the better. So altho I'm considering another bass, I'll buy it when I find it and if I think I can develop it to be a working bass...Of course, I'll set it up and that is an ongoing thing. [/quote] I think that's what I'm thinking... you go into a shop and try 20-30 basses or whatever ... and you find one that sings to you and you get that "something" that tells you it's a good instrument.... I think it's then once you have the thing it will take you a while to get to learn it and how it reacts.

I recently made a setup change on one of my basses that breathed new life into it. It's great, I knew it was a great instrument but it just seems to reward playing it- I've had it and played it for a year and I've still got more to learn about how it reacts, how it sounds in certain positions and right hand attack styles. It made me think. My main bass I had for about 3 years, stuck it up for sale on here a few times too, before I fell in love with it. I wonder for a lot of us if we don't spend enough time with new gear before deciding to move it on? (amps are a whole another thing, with even more knobs!)

can you solder?

I think your late 70's-early 80's output Japanese from Ibenez, Yamaha and Aria (and bassassin will probably narrow it down to a load more brands and specific factories) are pretty awesome. Early Yamaha BB are good too.

Must resist!

This thead aint helping me

this might be interesting.... If you were making a well respected product that wanted to model a load of cabs with it you probably would get reasonably close to what they should sound like... so if someone then took the Zoom B3 (a nice sounding bit of kit) and measured the cab model responses... well they wouldn't be spot on but would possibly be a good comparison to what you've built! http://www.zinfanus.com/zoom_b3/cabinets/index.htm

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1446144144' post='2897341'] Indeed! You were in fact the one who made me write "near unanimous". It's so easy to be bamboozled by what you hear - measurements are more reliable most of the time. Except that I'm still hearing prominent mids from this cab, which the measurements are not showing. Pulling back around the 500Hz mark takes out the "boing" overtone that I've also heard with some other 12" cabs. I was going to calculate a filter to put a notch in the frequency response, but as nobody else seems particularly bothered, I'm going to leave it alone. [/quote] have you got a commercial bass cab to hand that doesn't sound prominent mids? I wonder if you measured that and your cab side by side you would be able to see on the charts what the other cab was doing that made your build seem "middy"

[quote name='Bassassin' timestamp='1446116031' post='2896963'] And I speak as someone who once bought a guitar at a car boot for £7.50 and sold it for £250... [/quote] and that's the one you'll tell us about!