LukeFRC

So you want to sell a semi acoustic fretless bass. Probably can make some great sounds .... why not get the best fretless player you know to demo it...

Interestingly on my 1982 (passive) L1000 the circuit works great, the fact you have more bottom and top, but can dial it back with the passive eq means you can get all sort of lovely tones out of it. Stupid hot signal though, good for clipping the input of the desk you're going into!

Have you hidden the braces at the bottom with the wadding?

I had a great 1u rack mount preamp. I had a cab. I bought a poweramp. It was big and heavy and fairly deep. I had three boxes, a preamp that sometimes I didn't need the poweramp with, and a case that the amp and cab went into that would make everything big heavy and cumbersome. I sold the lot and got a combo that was one lift and fit in the back of the car. In your case if you're trying to get a bigger rig for not much money - you can pick up the hartke cab... then look for an older head, Ashdown, Trace Elliot, Hartke etc ... they can be had for cheap- there was a Trace AH12-SMX on here for £150 last week... something like that would do you well... Then plug amp into cab. If you prefer your preamps sound use that into the effects return, or if not use the amp's preamp, or even both! (you've now the choice)

This evening I focused on my satin coat. btw - 4 clamps is a minimum you need. Six would be better.

good tip. As you can see in my pic the freezer is about 20cm away! It's a "knackered at end of day, lets glue a panel for 20 min" - whereas painting yards of skirting, and clean up takes longer... plus my wife seems to think the smell of paint might kill us or something* so doing it in the evenings with the door open letting the heat out isn't fun. *for the record I am using low VOC modern paint from the trade centre.

Erm the primer coat is on...

It’s rainy up here in Yorkshire... but I’ve got a side on (hopefully enough glue it drank it up) and t-nut overkill!

You’ve got 30mm of ply there, into t-nuts in my case so there’s enough wood - the reason not to do it is more the fact that you’re only going to get it about 1-1.5mm down before the edges of the handle start curving in-but you’re also going to need to factor in the thickness of a layer of paint. I’ve used my router enough to feel the risks aren’t worth the benefit - it’s almost at the poiny that a scalpel and a chisel would be a better method to do it. As it is it is not like there’s anything wrong with it as it is. Plus I should be painting skirting - not building cabs!

Looks good! I should have done that too. I was trying to work out how I could inset the handle slightly but decided the risk of total router distraction was too high!

So braces glued in and drying, handle support likewise. As I got excited and ordered everything early before Stevie did the screw list I’ve ended up with too many bolts and t-nuts ... so horn, handle, feet are going to all use t-nuts as ild rather use them than go buy more stuff.

Their unobtainability on my budget?

Maybe the best question would be - I’ve got £800 (or whatever) - show me the best secondhand jazz style you can. (With links) that way you’re going to get folk recomend stuff that’s a wee bit more unusual but good

+1 Don’t automatically presume that more expensive = better. also look on here secondhand too

back when that was made (pre 1989 I think) they didn't have a custom shop... everything was a bit custom shop...

this is a brown bass ... https://www.andybaxterbass.com/collections/music-man-basses/products/1978-music-man-stingray-walnut I also have played it twice and it's one of the most amazing instruments I've ever played. Stunning. So much so you can forgive it it's colour

Possibly - although this morning was mostly spent with Zinser Coverall and this afternoon I'll be taking the little one to a farm I think. I'll do it slow and steady like everyone is suggesting. When I first got it I was having to hit it quite hard with a mallet to slot everything in for a dry fit... a wee bit of sanding later and it dry fits together perfectly without the mallet needing to be in involved. Lightly sanding the shoulders of the rabbets and it gets rid of a lot of the bowing problems - I think a lot of that is due to the CNC cutter seeming to having a very slight angle on the cuts. I honestly think I could slap glue on the joints and do it in one based on how well it fits together and self squares itself.... Slow and steady is recommended though so I'll do that.

Question- and I should know this - As it all slots together is it best to glue the main bit of the cab appart from top and bottom all in one go as it’s self squaring - or do the braces first and let it dry then the sides etc? I’m thinking all in one go (must remember the T nuts! )

Bit more modern - but this

Is this your third or fourth CMT100?

@Merton do yourself a favour and keep this one

Bassman cab IR?

I use them to send to the PA and go on the basis that the cab sound will fit in the mix better than a clean sound. Having said that the cab collection built in does seem a wee bit like the bass cabs some guitar players would guess bass players want!

I’m tempted to build one (probably myself, not a kit) and maybe just run the driver low passed without a horn ... I only say that because I think it was a suggestion of Stevies - while I say that I have almost zero need for another one