GregBass

I would always go for Hiscox first. I have used them for 20 years now for my guitars and my basses.They don't make a case that's tailored for one of my basses, so I emailed them for a solution. They recommended a case thats slightly bigger and posted me a load of pads with instructions on how to fit them for my bass. Free of charge!!

Sadly, the physics of the situation tells you that if you don't move a lot of air, you won't get deep bass. I remember hearing a bass player trying to get depth out of a Genz Benz 1x12 and it sounded like someone kicking a dustbin.

I go for the overkill back line - Peavey Tour 700, Hartke 4x10 and Electrovoice 1x18 sub. This means that I can usually get my sound projecting well even in bigger venues - and the sub produces more deep bass than most PAs. On a side note from this thread, I also provide the PA and that is a Behringer powered mixer with Mackie slave and two chassis amps for monitors. I have never had a single issue with the Behringer - works fine for us

I used to play a Rick through an HH 100 and HH 4x12 back in the early 70s. I'd love to try one of these for you. I'm a professional writer working in Cambridge too!

Luke - the bass in question is passive. I am playing with the EQ to see if I can even out the response, but as the band hasn't rehearsed for a while I haven't had a chance to see how it sounds at playing volume. I practise on headphones, which sounds completely different of course!

Go for it!! I have my second Rick - and there really is no bass that's like them for feel and sound.

My selection: 1973 Fender Mustang in competition red with competition stripes. Bought when I couldn't afford a "real bass" back in the late 70s (I had just bought a house and was strapped for cash), but sounded like a Fender and that was enough. In the bad old days before the value of vintage instruments was realised, I cut a hole for an extra Jazz pickup and had it refinished in black. I am having that vandalism corrected by a local luthier at the moment. Easy bass to play, with nearly enough sound to be satisfying. 1979 Rickenbacker 4001 in natural blonde. My main bass since the early 80s - super low action and sounds like a Rick. Nuff said. 1997 Warwick Corvette Standard Passive in blue. Bought from Jigster on here a few months ago, and now my go to bass. All my friends who have played it want it. Some basses just feel right - and this is the one for me. The sound is a bit weak on the G and D strings - which I am hoping to put right with a bit of setup and judicious EQ at tonight's rehearsal - but the E and A have that Warwick growl. Mmmmmm. 2009 Warwick Corvette Standard Active in honey. Big truss rod problems which are being sorted. Sounds great but doesn't play as well as the passive. Will have the occasional outing when the neck is sorted. Warwick Rockbass Streamer 5 string in lustrous shiny blue. Gorgeous looking beast, plays OK but sounds a bit weak. I needed a 5 string, and it does the job.

Yes Dr J - but I don't get the same bass drop on my Rick 4001 or my Fender Mustang.

I have a Warwick Corvette passive which plays like a dream, but the sound isn't even across the strings. The E and A strings have that wonderful Warwick growl, but the D and G sound really thin and tinny. Plenty of clang but no depth. I have tried adjusting the pickups, but no joy in equalising the tone across the strings. Have any of you other Warwick owners seen this, and if so how can I fix it? Alternatively, can anyone suggest replacement pickups that would keep the growl but give me more bass across the range?

I would go for a patch lead. While a speaker lead will carry the signal with no problems, the lack of screening will make it prone to hum. Generally, all leads before the power amp should be screened.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1335284736' post='1628648'] I wouldn't worry about it... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ewTJWKeGLAY[/media] [/quote] Remember - ain't no such thing as a bum note in jazz. It's just a really clever minor 9th harmony.

[quote name='vax2002' timestamp='1334692688' post='1619950'] On Ricks, bridges still bend up and fingerboards lift if you use heavy roundwounds on 4003, on 4001, it was a dead cert. [/quote] I have always used roundwound 45 to 105s on my Ricks. I have had my current 4001 now for 27 years, and have had no problems with the neck at all. The action is as low as our guitarist's Strat! My other Rick was a 1972 4001. I sold it to a mate who still has it, and the neck is also spot on. Maybe you have just had a bad one

[quote name='charic' timestamp='1334663816' post='1619290'] I have to say that wouldn't quite put rick build quality up there with Warwicks tbh, but that's just IME [/quote] I have a pair or Warwicks - a 1997 and a 2005. The 97 plays like a dream, but I can quite clearly feel where the joins are on the 3-piece neck. Not something I have ever seen on a Rick. I still love the way the 'wick plays though The 2005 is whole other matter. The truss rod is twisted and the adjuster is knackered. I am in the process of having a new rod fitted. When I raised this, Warwick actually have a procedure for changing a truss rod - so I'm apparently not the only one with this problem. Neither of my Ricks (both 70s) have ever had any quality issues at all.

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1334578470' post='1617858'] Also stop using Ricks, they really aren't very well made. [/quote] I find it strange that you guys keep saying this. I have had two Ricks - I still have one, in fact - and they are the best made basses I have ever had. They certainly kick my Fender and Warwicks into the long grass in terms of build quality!!

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1334355316' post='1615249'] Even something as simple as a block of plastic or wood, nothing heavy, thick enough to take up the space between the back of the pots to the inside of the cover, taped or glued to the inside of the cover, would probably make a difference. Though it might be a good idea to use thicker and/or longer screws to fit the cover plate in place. [/quote] Errr - unless things have changed since my Warwicks were made, they don't use screws to secure the back plates. They are clips, a bit like the battery compartments of DVD remote controls. Putting in any type fo bracing that pushes onto the backplate would be pointless as the first sign of pressure would just pop the backplate off.

Sell your mate?

Just to highlight the difference between new and secondhnad prices, I bought a German Warwick Corvette on here just a few weeks ago for 260. Go secondhand, my boy, you won't regret it

Just one question ........ WHY?????!?!?!?

These were indeed made Japan. I bought one of these in either the late 60s or early 70s - it was my first decent bass. I loved it, and wish I had never sold it

I have started up playing again after a long break, and I'm amazed at how string technology has leapt forward. Back in the day, the choice was Rotosound or not Rotosound. So which strings do you guys use? I am looking for something with depth and a real clang.

If you are prepared to go European, I have just bought two German Warwicks second hand for this type of budget. A Corvette Standard passive, boyught on here and in blue, cost 260. A Corvette Standard active in honey cost 500 off ebay.