icastle

I have a very simple rule: If you're paying me well enough, then knock yourself out sunshine. It's no skin off my nose how much of my time you waste while you're paying for it and I'll probably just tune out within 10 seconds once I realise you're an arse anyway. If you're not paying me then you get what you're given and should shut up.

[quote name='phil.i.stein' timestamp='1327086155' post='1506353'] The changes will mean that a licence will no longer be required for unamplified live music taking place between 08:00 and 23:00, and for amplified live music taking place between the same times before audiences of no more than 200. [/quote] Damn your faster fingers!

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' timestamp='1327084935' post='1506307'] "Unamplified"? Boo! [/quote] Yes, but the amplified part states that it's OK for audiences up to 200 without a license. That should cover most of the venues that have moved away from live music because of licensing issues. The bigger venues will just carry on as before.

Looking good... [url="http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-16657152"]http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/entertainment-arts-16657152[/url]

Valve amps have a reputation for being more impedance tolerant but I think you're asking for trouble if you exceed the manufacturers specification to the degree you're considering. Do you have any idea what impedance the individual speakers are? There might be a way of rewiring it to get it closer to 8Ω.

Unless you're playing in a tribute band then it's extremely unlikely that the audience will even notice, let alone comment, if you change a bass line. As long as it stays in keeping with the tune and you don't play horribly duff notes then you'll get away with it. I was listening to the radio the other day and heard a familiar tune that I couldn't quite put my finger on... then I realised it was something I'd been playing in my covers band for the last three years without ever having heard the original...

[quote name='Spike Vincent' timestamp='1327006344' post='1505219'] You are my new Hero. [/quote] ...even if he is 2" shorter than he used to be... I reckon my first house was smaller than those two cabs

[quote name='basskit_case' timestamp='1326972908' post='1504442'] Considering the above, I think JTUK's idea makes sense. [/quote] Absolutely

The LB30 has matched outputs for either 4Ω or 8Ω speakers, but not both at the same time. Using 4Ω and 8Ω cabs at the same time gives you roughly 2.7Ω which is probably way below what the amp can handle.

First amp of any sort was an old valve gramaphone that I hard wired a guitar lead to the pickup wires. Then: Selmer head and a 1x15 unbranded Park 50w amp and a 2x12 WEM cab. H||H IC100 2x12 combo Ohm combo (can't remember model number) Fender Bassman head and 2x15 Fender cab Marshall head + Marshall 4x12 bass cab (absolutely hated it) Peavey TNT150 (I think!) Trace Elliot V6 head + 4x10 cab Roland Cube 60 Hartke 3000 + Hartke 4x10 Peavey Tour 700 + Warwick 1x15 and 2x10 cabs.

It 'could be' that you have an earthing issue with your PB but the fact that your Strat is exhibiting a similar behaviour kinda detracts from that a little bit. Dimmer switches can produce some really nasty hums so the first thing to do is to turn the lights off and see if the buzz disappears. I don't know how your house electrics are wired up but it's possible that the ring main you are using has something 'noisy' plugged into it - try running an extension lead from your original playing room and using that instead. I think you're going to struggle if you try and compare a Strat and a PB - they are two totally different instruments with different electrical\electronic characteristics. If you can't isolate the source of the noise and you're local to GAK then pop it back to them, explain the problem and try it again under the same conditions you did before - my experience with GAK has been very good over the years and I'm certain they won't mind helping you out.

[quote name='Pete Turton' timestamp='1326823288' post='1502461'] Having said that, how would I control the amount of volume from each cab. Could a volume pot be inserted somewhere to either bring the bottom cab up or down in output? ( the things you think about in antisipation!) [/quote] The long and short of it is that you won't have any control over the power going to each cab using the method you've described - the amp will just spread it's output equally across all the drivers it can see, and that's generally seen as acceptable. It's generally not the 'done thing' to stick a volume pot into the amplified path for two reasons. The first is that the standard pots that are generally available are only rated at 0.5W so you'd have to try and source an industrial rheostat to cope (the sort of thing you'd use to operate industrial machinery). The second problem is that you're going to change the impedance that the amp is seeing - I haven't tried it but I'd guess that trying to control the bottom cab would also affect the combo on top. Seems to me that your best bet would be to find someone with a 1x15 and give it a try before you buy one to put your mind at rest..

They have one of these at one of the many Acoustic Clubs that I frequent on a regular basis. I spent the best part of 4 months faffing around with the thing to make it sound even remotely adequate until finally giving up with it in November. I felt that I'd given it enough of a chance and was quite justified in being 'prima donnaish' about refusing to play there unless I could use my own amplification in future (which was agreed without any discussion or argument). It was responsive enough but tonewise it just didn't work for me - everything just sounded muddy and flat. One of the reasons why I perservered with it for so long was that I've used Hartke gear before (and still do for practices) and it's never been a major problem. I still like Hartke gear but the Kickback 112 gets a big thumbs down from me I'm afraid.

[quote name='guildbass' timestamp='1326757774' post='1501719'] The thing is, to retain a mate, HE has to decide so YOU have to manipulate the situation until he is unable NOT to see the issues... [/quote] I simply can't agree with that sentiment. If anyone considers manipulation as a means to steer friendships then they really need to take a long hard look at themselves and consider what value they place on friendships. I could have manipulated my closest friends to move them away from the inevitable 'sh*tstorms' they were about to walk into but I haven't. I'll talk to them about it, I'll advise them of what is going to happen and I'll help them pick up the pieces afterwards if they don't listen, but manipulating them out of it... no. They might forgive me but I'm not sure I could forgive myself. Manipulation is something that I believe should be solely reserved for enemies and anyone attempting it should be aware that there's a 50/50 chance that it's going to backfire.

[quote name='woodyratm' timestamp='1326756111' post='1501697'] So should i just continue playing with a drummer who falls out of time etc? He's not wanting to stop the band. I just wish he'd practice more [/quote] Well tell him. If he's a friend then 1) you shouldn't keep things like this from him and 2) he'll take it 'on the chin' and either move along or start working to rectify the situation. At the moment all you're doing is setting yourself to take a fall regardless of whether he stays or leaves.

[quote name='EskimoBassist' timestamp='1326658518' post='1500143'] Oh god that nearly happened to my pride and joy over Christmas. I almost had to ask myself the ultimate question: What/Who do I love more - my bass or my girlfriend?! [/quote] I presume she dried out ok?

I think I'd be inclined to take a look under the scratchplate and make sure that there's been no ingress there, perhaps giving the pots a squirt of switch cleaner to get rid of any moisture that might be inside. Giving the external mechanical parts (machine heads and bridge) a wipe down with a WD40 moistened cloth might not go amiss. Apart from wiping away obvious moisture, don't be tempted to accelerate drying by sticking it next to a radiator though or you'll definately be asking for trouble.

[quote name='Samlowe' timestamp='1326579084' post='1499197'] While I have the amp here with the cover off, is there any way of testing the fan? Cheers. [/quote] It really depends on what you have available. The fan runs off of the 15V supply rail so, if you have a suitable bench power supply, it is possible to disconnect one of the cables from the pcb and stick 15V directly onto the fan (thereby bypassing the control circuitry). If that works then you need to fool the control circuitry into trying to switch the fan on, I'd do something hi tech like heating the sensor with a hairdryer - at which point you'll find 15V appearing where the fan joins the pcb.

[quote name='Samlowe' timestamp='1326578871' post='1499196'] It's been so long since i've had it hooked up to a cab i can't remember if the fan cuts in or not, I'll check it out next time I'm in our room with cabs. I'm sure the cab isn't the issue though because it's the same one i'm using now with out any issues. The thermal cut out is definitely something I haven't considered so will be on the look out for when I use it next. Yeah, a mechanical kick is kind of how i would describe it. The kick gets amplified through the speaker also. Thanks for advice icastle! I'll report back next week sometime... [/quote] No problem. The fan looks as though it cuts in and out as the temperature goes up and down so what you should find is that when the amp starts cutting in and out the fan should be running - if it's not then there's a chance that what you're seeing is a thermal cutout because the fan isn't working (if all those double negatives make sense?!?) As a way of eliminating another potential issue, try swapping speaker leads over just in case you've got a duff connection in there.

[quote name='Samlowe' timestamp='1326576822' post='1499151'] When it is in the process of cutting out I get the feeling it's some sort of digital cut out. It starts to cut in and out at a slow pace and quickly speeds up. Thuis happnens within the space of around 10sec. If i were to leave the amp on it would keep cutting in and out a a very quick rate. It seems to me like some sort of protection device is cutting in? [/quote] Having looked at the scematic ([url="http://www.warwick.de/media/manuals/ProFet/PROFET_3.2.pdf"]http://www.warwick.de/media/manuals/ProFet/PROFET_3.2.pdf[/url] in case anyone needs it in the future) there are cutouts that occur if: 1) Output shorted (faulty cab or duff speaker cable) 2) Thermal cutout - make sure you have plenty of airflow around the amp. If either of those two things happen then, according to the manual, the Mute LED will come on even if you haven't selected it previously. If it's a protection circuit kicking in then you should hear a mechanical 'click' from the amp as the relay switches. Incidentally, does the fan run?

Well if it cuts out when warm and then works again when cold my guess is a dry joint somewhere on the preamp board (as the clip indicator is controlled from there). As the amp heats up, the joint expands and a circuit is broken. Once the amp cools down again then the joint goes back to where it can make contact - we're talking fractions of a millimetre here. If you have soldering skills then you could take a look and see if you can spot the dry joint and resolder it, along with any others that look suspect. If you don't then it's time for an amp tech to take a look at it.

Nope it doesn't use both. The reference to the 115V T10A is the rating of the fuse you'd need to be using if you were running the amp in the US. You need to use a 230V T5A fuse (note the [b]T[/b]5A, don't try using an F5A or it'll just blow as soon as you switch on). The extra compartment in the fuse holder is just a handy place to store a spare fuse, it's not connected to anything. EDIT: Don't forget, fuses generally blow for a reason. If it blows again when you've replaced it then there's something wrong and you should take it back to your service guy.

[quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1326470805' post='1497713'] Actually Ibanez have been manufacturing Amplification for quite a long time now..... and have quite a range of products Have a look here - [url="http://www.ibanez.co.jp/products/ele_top11.php?area_id=3&year=2011"]http://www.ibanez.co..._id=3&year=2011[/url] [/quote] Well blow me down! Having said that though, I've never seen anyone using it, never seen it in the shops and can't remember seeing it online among the Promethean stuff. [quote name='crez5150' timestamp='1326470805' post='1497713'] I have mentioned elsewhere on this forum that Ibanez are intending to expand the Promethean range so you will see more products throughout the year. [/quote] Yep. I'm just keeping my fingers crossed that the P5110 is what they're going to expand from and not replace.

Oh dear. They've just positioned themselves as yet another mid range supplier. The existing Promethean range has built it's reputation on 'word of mouth' driving perspective consumers to try out a product range from a manufacturer not generally associated with amplification. Once you have a position in the market it's fine to diversify but suicide to totally change position. I very much doubt Promethean will be around in two years time.

[quote name='mart' timestamp='1326377217' post='1496288'] Of course, it was Simon and Garfunkel, wasn't it? [/quote] Just 'cos you live in Wales it doesn't mean I can't have you tracked down and slapped you know...