Silent Fly

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=71973&view=findpost&p=752607"]Here[/url] Kirky asked a question that I think other people can find interesting. [quote name='Kirky' post='752607' date='Feb 21 2010, 10:52 AM'](...) Probably a dumb question, but is there any particular reason why some effect pedals adopt a negative centre and others a positive? Martin[/quote] It is an excellent question. IMO, there are two school of thought. Centre positive has the advantage that the external part of the connector is negative so it can electrically touch the enclosure. This allows the usage of non-isolated connectors for the power supply. Centre negative has another, more complex advantage. If more pedals are in series, they share the same ground. This is because the patch cables that connect them connect the enclosures together. Please note that patch cables use shielded cables that have the outside connected to ground. If it is all powered by batteries (one for each pedal) there is only one ground connection that propagates nicely from the amp, to the last pedal, to the first pedal to the bass/guitar. If the pedals are daisy chained with a single power supply, things get more complicated: inevitably there is a second chain of ground connections that propagates through the power supply chain. This creates a problem: the enclosure + patch cable + power supply create a loop. One loop for every pedal. This type of loop is called ground loop and it is bad news because it is more or less like an aerial that picks up electromagnetic noise. The situation would improve if we shielded the power supply cable. Unfortunately, we can’t shield the power supply with ground - we would end up doing exactly what we want to avoid. However... if we shield the power supply with the positive and we run the negative inside the shielded cable, the ground loop is mitigated. Building a shielded cables with the centre negative but with the connector centre positive is a mechanical nightmare so we have cables and power supply connectors with centre negative.

[quote name='M4L666' post='745618' date='Feb 15 2010, 10:29 AM']Couldn't an EQ pedal with true bypass do the same job?[/quote] I am not sure if your are asking me or nugget Yes - This is what I would use. Something like [url="http://www.sfxsound.co.uk/mainpage.asp?page=micro_eq"]this[/url] for example.

As you said, I think you are a little bit confused. There are a few things that we better clarify. [b]* Devices[/b] [b]Preamplifiers[/b] perform two functions: 1. Increase the signal level 2. Change the impedance. They do not allow control of the tone. [b]Equalizers[/b] change the frequency response of the signal (e.g. increase the bass/treble content). [b]DI[/b]s (aka Direct Injection boxes) do another thing. They change the impedance and convert an unbalanced signal (e.g. the signal of a bass guitar) to a balanced signal (e.g. a XLR-type signal). These functions are often combined. Some preamplifiers are built with an equalizer. Some equalizers have some form of gain control and can boost the signal level. Some devices like the Sadowsky DI can do all the above. They boost the signal, convert it to balanced and change the frequency content (treble/bass controls). Other devices like the Avalon U5 are DI, preamplifiers and have limited EQ functionalities). “[i]On-board preamplifiers[/i]” is not the best name to describe what they do. A better name would be “[i]on-board equalizer[/i]”. They allow equalization of the signal, impedance conversion (another way to say “robust signal delivery”) and often boost the signal just a few dB. [b]* Signal levels[/b] There are 4 signal levels that a musician should know. In order of strength: [b]Microphone level[/b]. It is very weak. As a bass player, you need be aware of its existence because sometimes PA and recording desks need a mic-level signal as input. [b]Instrument level[/b]. It is the signal coming out of your bass. [b]Line Level[/b]. It is the signal used by: recording devices, the effect loop of your amp, the input of a power amp. To convert microphone and instrument level to line level you need a preamplifier. [b]Speaker level[/b]. It is the signal sent to speakers. To convert line level to speaker level you need a power amp. To convert instrument level to speaker level you need two devices: preamplifier and power amp. These two devices are often combined in a single unit called “integrated amplifier”. [b]Effect loop[/b] is an extern access to the output of the preamplifier and the input of the power amp in an integrated amplifer. ---- If you miss the “active high end zing” you need an equalizer to boost the high frequencies.

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='741857' date='Feb 11 2010, 11:31 AM']Thanks for the responses so far. I don't think my MM 'Ray 5 has a circuit in it! It's a 1990, and has no phantom coil, and an Alnico-poled pick-up. I guess it's too old...[/quote] I am not an expert of MM basses but I wasn't aware of passive MM Stingrays...

[quote name='funkygreega' post='742294' date='Feb 11 2010, 05:13 PM'](...)I came across a thread and someone mentioned something about it (replacing preamps) not working if the bass is active already. Can someone with deeper knowledge enlighten and possibly advise me on how to go about it?[/quote] There shouldn't be any problem.

I think the Music Man StingRay 5 and the Sterling use a circuit that compensate the volume variations between single-coil, parallel and series.

[quote name='cameltoe' post='737949' date='Feb 7 2010, 11:39 AM'](...) What do you have Silent Fly?[/quote] Right now nothing... ...but in a few weeks time...

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='737859' date='Feb 7 2010, 09:13 AM']okay... next question.... i still want to build at least one of the effects im thinking of putting in this box... whats the negatives of taking cheaper dano or behringer pedals, which with some of them the main negative i hear is the plastic mountings, and remounting them in my box. In effect all I would be doing was remounting the circuitry, I seem to remeber hearing that some of the dano pedals were very close copies of other things anyway?[/quote] It called re-housing. It consists exactly in what you decribed: take the circuit from a pedal and put it in another enclosure. Often cheap pedals are indeed copies of other pedals - however, the difference is not only in box. To cut costs, everything is designed to cost less - down to last resistor. Having said that, sometimes they sound quite good. It is a good exercise and if something goes wrong you can put everything back in the original box If you do it, you could post photos of the process - it would be very interesting.

[quote name='LukeFRC' post='737252' date='Feb 6 2010, 02:46 PM']Are their any kits you would recommend?[/quote] The BYOC Optical Compressor looks a nice kit. It is also available in the UK [url="http://www.vibe-o-tronic.co.uk"]here[/url].

Very good questions... [i]- do you all think it is worth the effort? [/i] If you think it will be a hobby and you ready to invest time, a little bit of frustration and some lessons learned the hard way - it is definitely worth the effort. If you just need a pedal and you have no intention to continue, I am not sure. [i]- buy a kit, or just buy the parts?[/i] If you never built something before, a kit (the simpler, the better) is a good way to start. While you build your first pedals buy yourself a good book about electronics. [i]- any suggestions/advice?[/i] Take your time, pay attention to details and use good quality materials.

I think it is all down to what you mean by "usable". The major problem with very cheap pedals (reverbs or not) is that they are not true-bypass or their active bypass sucks the life out of the tone. To me this makes them unusable. I prefer a cable that connects by bass directly to the amp instead of something that compromises my tone even when it is switched off.

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' post='735416' date='Feb 4 2010, 07:19 PM']Opted for the Catalinbread Serrano Picoso from Higgie in the end - hope it does what I need it to do now?!![/quote] 1. Connect the booster as the first pedal 2. Switch it off 3. Set everything with your GB 4. unplug the GB, plug the in Fender JB 5. Turn on the booster 6. Set the booster so that the Fender sounds (volume and effects) like the GB From now on, use the GB with the booster switched off and the Fender with the booster on.

I also do repairs. I'm based in London SW18. Please send me an email if you are interested (the email in the web site in the signature).

[quote name='Sibob' post='731230' date='Feb 1 2010, 12:00 AM']Cheers all .05uf apparently! Si[/quote] I suggest you try both. I have a push pull on the tone knob to switch between 22nF and 50nF

I also have a ART Tube MP Studio V3. I don't like the sound very much but I never had problems with noise.

It's possible that a capacitor started leaking. If this is the case, it needs to be replaced.

[quote name='AlanP2008' post='731514' date='Feb 1 2010, 11:53 AM']I think you'd be very unlucky if the pre-amp was damaged during that event...[/quote] +1

[quote name='Duarte' post='734205' date='Feb 3 2010, 04:45 PM']I went to my local EBMM dealer today, but as a result of a previous argument I have had with them, they very rudely told me to get lost. Wonderful.[/quote] I suggest you send an email to EBMM describing what kind of service the "local EBMM dealer" offers to EBMM customers. If a company is an official dealer (of any brand) should behave accordingly to its status.

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' post='733937' date='Feb 3 2010, 12:03 PM']I appreciate all of the feedback from everyone on this thread and have simply tried to look at all options before making any impulse purchase.[/quote] I am sorry Gunsfreddy2003 if I sounded a little bit aggressive - it wasn't my intention. [quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' post='733937' date='Feb 3 2010, 12:03 PM']Higgie has kindly given me an offer on his Catalinbread Serrano Picoso and I am looking into that as an option too now![/quote] It is very nice pedal - I'm sure you'll like it.

[quote name='fxpedal.co.uk' post='733796' date='Feb 3 2010, 09:55 AM']Most of the options have already been mentioned. In terms of clean boosts, you could consider: EHX LPB-1 Seymour Duncan Pickup Booster MXR Micro Amp Modtone Clean Boost Other options that have also been mentioned which would work are: EHX Signal Pad Boss LS-2 The LS-2 may make the most sense for what you're trying to achieve. Of the clean boosts, the Modtone is probably the least coloured.[/quote] I agree with fxpedal.co.uk recommendations. I don't know the [i]Modtone Clean Boost[/i] but the [i]EHX LPB-1[/i] and [i]Seymour Duncan Pickup Booster[/i] have a relatively low input impedance. They might colour the sound slightly (not necessarily in a bad way) with passive basses. The [i]MXR Micro Amp[/i] is a good pedal but unfortunately it uses an IC that could be better quality. The [i]Boss LS-2[/i] is not true-bypass and it will process the sound of your GB regardless if it is switched on or off. You may no hear the difference though.

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' post='733711' date='Feb 3 2010, 06:44 AM']Doesn't the EHX signal pad cut signal rather than boost it? Not keen to adjust the signal on the GB TBH![/quote] I see a little bit of a problem here... You are not keen on adjusting the signal of GB. The best way to avoid this is use a high quality booster when you use the other bass (Fender JB). It will not change the tone of the GB or the Fender JB. However, you are not keen in spending the money needed to buy a high quality pedal. The second best option is use a passive attenuator pedal (EHX Signal Pad). It is inexpensive and has no impact on the GB tone. You don’t like it because it "[i]adjust the signal on the GB[/i]". I run out of suggestions...

[quote name='cheddatom' post='733735' date='Feb 3 2010, 08:34 AM']I know in principle you don't want to change the ouput of the GB(...)[/quote] ...and he wouldn't change the output of the GB. Only the input of the first pedal of the pedalboard. [quote name='cheddatom' post='733735' date='Feb 3 2010, 08:34 AM'](...) but if you got it down to match the jazz, you could then adjust your filters to match the new gain level. Then when the jass is plugged in it should be OK. (...)[/quote] Exactly.