Jabba_the_gut

EMG do an active blend control (http://www.emgpickups.com/accessories/bass-accessories/summing/abc.html) that might of interest. I do like EMG pickups and preamps though I know not everyone doesn't! Audere also do some nice preamps https://www.audereaudio.com/ There's also someone on the forum selling a Delano Sonar 3 band preamp with active/passive switch. Cheers

I think Axminster might have a sudden surge in interest in these looking at the above posts!! I've bought a few things from them (router cutters etc) and been pleased with the quality and service.

I was just about to post the link to Axminster then realised Andy had already done it. I have a plastic centre finding ruler, which has been really useful, but I'm going to order one of these now!! Cheers

I have been toying with pickup ideas - I was thinking of using an EMG 35 something as I did on the other shortie but that would remove an interesting part of the buckeye. The buckeye wasn't big enough for me to adjust its position to allow for pickups in advance (as I would do normally) so I'm having to work around it this time. That's the reason for looking at the J pickup, because as you say, it kind of sits nicely in the flow of the grain; positioning is all about the wood grain one this one rather than specific distance from bridge!! I'm hoping it works ok.... Cheers

I’ve used a couple of the East Piezo preamps on other builds and I really like them. As you say, nice and compact. Ive also got a Cafe Walter one that I might try though that doesn’t have the controls provided by the East unit. Cheers

Great minds think alike! That is something I’ve been considering and looking at before I route the pickup. I’ve been looking at removing the saddle blocks and replacing with a block of ebony with a piezo element in. Cheers

I'm hoping so. Will need it to warm up a bit beforehand so I can spray it! But plenty to do beforehand on this and another bass. Look forward to catching up at the bash. Cheers. Jez

A quick mock up of what I'm thinking at the moment (can always change....)

While it's a bit cold out, I'm doing the parts of this that I can get away with at the dining room table! I've cut all the frets to the right size and nipped off the ends of the tang. This will allow me to fill the ends of the fret slots to match the fretboard rather than having the slot visible. I've done this on all basses that I've made as I think it looks neater. Next task is to shape the neck - I enjoy this bit and I'm hoping it turns out as well as the last one to satisfy my engineering side! I'm looking at installing a single EMG J pickup in this. I think that will sound pretty good but will also leave the maximum amount of the buckeye showing. This is the first time I have used buckeye and really like the look of it so much so I ordered another piece for a bass but the delivery company lost it!! I'm in the process of sorting the replacement but that's for another project....

Finally managing to find some time to get on with this!! I've been itching to get on with this for a while but other more important things needed doing first. The first of these basses was 800mm (31.5") scale which was dictated by the length of the strings. The second one is going to have a slightly shorter scale length and I'm going to swap things about here a little and fit the original neck on the spalted beech body and make a new neck for the walnut bodied one. I've looked at string lengths, particularly between ball end and silk, of some short scale LaBella nylons and some D'Addario chromes which has determined rather than 762mm (30") scale the neck would need to be 750mmm (29.5") scale to suit the bridge layout how I currently have it. I've made a bass before at 750mm scale and that was really nice to play so I don't see any issues here (hopefully..!). First step is to create a new neck template in the same style as the previous one. As I'm fitting this to the previous body I'm keeping the neck tape the same as the previous neck, it will just be a bit shorter. The only affect this has is to make the neck marginally (about 1mm) wider at the nut. I've ordered a truss rod and nut to suit and now I'm just waiting for it to warm up a bit so I can go into the garage to work on this!

I used to travel with work quite a bit and often had a Hohner B2A in the car boot. I had a go on Ped's Wingbass at a bass bash and quite liked it - thought it would make a good travel bass. I decide to have a go at making one but 23" scale, which I did but then changed jobs so am no longer working away!! I'm still building a second one anyway....

Marked up the neck to put the side dots in. I remembered to do it this time before shaping the fretboard and neck (unlike last time which made it hard work!!). Marked up neck ready to drill holes for the side dots: Plastic dot strips glued in place prior to trimming: Plenty of little things to sort before I venture into the cold of the garage.

Whay!! Finally getting round to doing some work on basses again now that the house DIY is finished. Not done a lot but at least I've started.. First up was to strip another headless bridge to file and tidy up. These bridges are okay when you get them but they are a little rough in places so I've stripped the ones I've bought, filed the rough bits then resprayed them. Everything just works and fit a little better afterwards. This bridge will then go in the buckeye bass. I'm thinking of making this one passive and fitting a couple of jazz pickups. The one I took to the SE Bass Bash had a single EMG and preamp - it sounded pretty good but I'd be interested in seeing what passive is like.

Well I would have if Hermes hadn't lost it!! A piece of buckeye burl and some swamp ash for a body - not exactly a jiffy bag......grrrr. Really not happy.

I quite the look of the Hipshot Supertone bridge, though it isn't a drop in replacement. https://reverb.com/item/835227-hipshot-supertone-4-string-bass-bridge-gibson-2-point-black-5g410b I also think that something like this would look good, but again not a drop in replacement. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-open-wired-archtop-jazz-bass-guitar-tailpiece-bridge-in-Chrome-SM402/370912850646?hash=item565c20f2d6:g:sPgAAOSw7PBTn-Nn:rk:42:pf:0 So, not a helpful reply in summary!!!

Who does that? Why? Why? Why?

Cheers for the comments - lots of ideas! I'm going to look at the scratchplate a bit further. I've got another couple of tops and some swamp ash due this week which I'm looking forward to receiving.

Yep, same here. Even had them warp when I've been laminating thin pieces with a veneer. Trial and error I've found!! I think black plastic can look good but needs to be good quality plastic if that doesn't sound strange...

For info, here's a picture of the smaller bridge with a normal tune-o-matic type bass bridge to give an idea of the size:

As @Andyjr1515 said - do you have a photo you could share. You can get a tune-o-matic style 4 string bridge with a 15mm spacing - this is one I bought a while back (though I can't remember where from unfortunately): The saddle would need filing to suit the strings but the spacing should be near enough.

What is it you don't like about the bridge? What are you thinking of replacing it with?

I know what you mean about the 'f' hole! I suppose part of my question was also around using something other that a plain wood/colour top with a scratch plate - it almost seems a shame to cover the wood but I quite liked the contrast. As you say, might try a mock up when this is progressed further!! Cheers

Cheers @sblueplanet. I did a build diary for that one that has a load of pictures in.

I've still got some work to do to finish off a couple of build from last year but need to clear the garage of all the junk from having my kitchen done. In the meantime, I started mocking up a few bits for a new build. Got a few ideas but nothing concrete yet; 4 or 5 string, hollow or solid, 1 pickup or 2. Got some more wood on order but in the meantime... I also put a scratchplate on top of a body I'm currently building and quite liked the look of it. It obviously doesn't fit but I like the contrast between the white plate and the spalted beech. Anyone else got any thoughts to the look of this?