stingrayPete1977

That would be better nice one

[url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8PC-FLAT-WOOD-BIT-SET-6-32mm-12-EXTENSION-SHANK-HEX-KEY-WOOD-DRILLING-CUTTING-/400333343250?pt=UK_Home_Garden_PowerTools_SM&hash=item5d35ba0a12"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item5d35ba0a12[/url] 10mm in as far as you can get it, add the extension bar and go in until you can work out where it will need to get to for the smaller bit to reach the pickup cavity, swap to the smaller one and the ext bar will go as far as the 10mm bit went leaving a small exit hole in the pickup pocket

Ah so you are having a jack socket then, thats not so bad as you can keep the drill at 90 degrees to the body rather than bursting out of the back! You can get an extension bar and a cheap set of flat bits from most diy or B&M bargain type shops, the only problem is that the socket on the bar which has two little grub screws in is about 10-12 diameter so thats the minimum flat bit you can put through as the main bit, than said you can counter sink a 12mm just enough to get the extension in enough so as the smallest bit in the kit pops out if that makes sense?

Some nice ERB notes in this (listen on a proper device) [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5ZeTmpN63Q[/media] I think it works if you can hold the notes, fast riffs become a bit of mush.

Plan C is a chisel and a scratchplate

[quote name='thebrig' timestamp='1363442589' post='2012776'] You guys are brilliant, this post is only a couple of minutes old, and already you have come up with great ideas which should resolve the problem. [/quote] Thats all of my brain power used for this week now though!

Well its quite well stuck in there now

Is the jack socket going on the plate? If not then you can drill from the body mounted jack socket hole through the cavity and on to the pickup cavity.

Drill from the neck pocket all the way down to the bridge area making a hole behind the bridge in a suitable position first then drill from the bridge to the cavity if it isnt already as you will need a route for the earth anyway Plan B is to carefully drill at an angle from both sides and as long as they pass at some point you should be able to thread a pull wire through.

Just purchased this, I made an offer of £26 which made it £29.99 inc the postage, handy to have another tuner to save me using my gig one in the practice room. I thought Artec were a fancy one and have seen a few folk have them, hopefully got a decent little budget setup now [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330795367099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648"]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330795367099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648[/url]

It has been said before on other threads but the extra string does make the bass sound different, I have owned multiples of the same bass in 4 and 5 string versions and it is there for sure, the argument about it got silly last time as I recall but my view is that both basses sounded great just different other 5 stringers were up in arms at the suggestion of the B altering the overall sound of the bass especially on the open strings.

[quote name='4-string-thing' timestamp='1363433956' post='2012632'] I have the single piezo version of this, £25 off the bay, and it was a bit too thick to fit all he way in to the wing at first, but I wedged it in and tried it. Result, a weak output and not too inspiring, but after filing the bridge for a few minutes and getting the unit to slide fully between the wing and the bridge it was a lot better. I used it on the bass side. It was a good tight fit and no shims were needed. I bought an ART tube preamp last week and although I don't have a bass to use it with (after the little accident) the ART sounds really good with my acoustic guitar (piezo, no onboard preamp) So when I pick up my new bass tomorrow it will hopefully add the magic required. The new bass already has a pickup fitted, but I'm not sure what it is. I'm looking forward to using it at rehearsal tomorrow night, new band, new bass..... Talk about in at the deep end! [/quote] Good luck with [b][i]all[/i][/b] of that

Looks like I did OK then I will look into the Rocktek preamp too

I was typing when the above posts were made, somethings not right there?

Surely a 22 fret neck would just have an overhanging board for the 22nd fret (Like USA Strats) or a longer heel area if its designed to fit a particular body like my Ray 5s compared to the 4s. If so then would it not be easier to cut the heel down a bit to fit snugly into the body's pocket? If it has a small heel then you are back to opening the pocket up or getting a different neck.

I quite like it! (not at that price but I like it non the less)

[quote name='Owencf' timestamp='1363428471' post='2012551'] Since i got the laminate bass my stagg has been converted to a dust collector....i should use it more Seems like alot of the folk who start with a EUB end up jumping ship to the real thing in shortish order. [/quote] Dont know what your talkin' bout!

[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1363401551' post='2012406'] Another point mentioned somewhere, and I have no idea about its validity, is that some people, when confronted with this StingRay peculiarity, would raise the treble end of the pickup in an attempt to strengthen the sound from the G string, but that they actually were making for too strong a magnetic field which would instead dampen the vibrations in that string. As said I have no idea, but to me it sounds like a good point. best, bert [/quote] I think there is some truth in this, My method is to set the treble side to where it feels comfortable to play and not too close to the strings first, even set quite far away the output coupled to the active preamp is much hotter than your average passive bass, then raise or lower the [b]bass[/b] side to get an even output rather than the more obvious but flawed method of adjusting the treble side until it just dampens or produces a weird tone etc.

[quote name='blinddrew' timestamp='1363390032' post='2012354'] Thanks, had one of those on the watch list already :¬) How's it working out for you? [/quote] Done this for you [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/202557-j-tone-l35-piezo-pickup-pictorial-and-initial-review/"]http://basschat.co.uk/topic/202557-j-tone-l35-piezo-pickup-pictorial-and-initial-review/[/url]

I have just twisted the feet a bit and it looks much better now, the bridge feet look offset on purpose actually and dont look at the bridge as it is carved with a twist (which I presume most are) it makes it look worse than it is.

Sorry for clogging up the forum this morning! I have fitted my piezo pickup and refitted the bridge central to the strings and put the feet central to the f hole notches, It sounds ok with no rattles etc but when you look at it from the from the bridge is slanting up on the treble side, should I ignor the notches and make it sit square to the eye or is it OK, does anyone else have a slanted bridge? Cheers in advance as ever for all your wisdom A photo would help you say..... [IMG]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/stingraypete/20130316_095500_zps36d42fe8.jpg[/IMG]

Yes physio every monday morning

OK as I have fitted one of these £35 eBay pickups I thought it might be worth me doing a little post for anyone interested as I bet there will be a few noob DB players like me that just want a bit of volume more than a killer tone to start with? As a quick bodge the other night when it arrived (very quick delivery) I cut the wing slots out by about an extra 3mm with a hacksaw which left them oversize by a mm or so, I wrapped the pads in foam packing to wedge them in and tightened the strings, it worked but was very low output and the bass side was very weak. [IMG]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/stingraypete/20130316_084313_zpsa4ceedc2.jpg[/IMG] This morning I removed the pads and filed the slots neater with a small flat file as I had sharp areas poking out before. [IMG]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/stingraypete/20130316_084233_zps2de4a9bf.jpg[/IMG] Next I made some concetina strips of card from a cereal packet (Aldi frosted flakes if it matters?), I managed to get three pieces worth of card in between the pad and the wing (Im not sure if putting the pad against the wing or the bridge would be best?). [IMG]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/stingraypete/20130316_084639_zps4ad8481c.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/stingraypete/20130316_084302_zps01ecb408.jpg[/IMG] Plugged it in and now its much better, louder, even and quite a nice natural tone which I presume would work well with a preamp of some sort if you want to shape the tone, I will get a preamp just for a bit more output really as its still a bit weak, I think I will get a better sound if I can keep my amp controls lower and less gain probably equals less feedback! I have tucked the cables up neat and tied a black twisty thing through the string holes, looks tidy IMO [IMG]http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af100/stingraypete/20130316_092408_zps9d320578.jpg[/IMG]

Check out my Gedo thread, looks like bass chat has a little Gedo fan club growing

Ta mate I am, I think my bad wrist is holding me back a bit now.