deepbass5

I used to get all the regular Bass mags and there were articles in the US mag on mains cables and how oxide build up on your plug pins could also affect the tone. So I regularly would use a glass fibre contact cleaning stick to clean up my plungs pins till they shone . There were adverts for oxygen free mains leads at exorbitant prices as well. I did get rather anal there after making up larger mains leads using 2.5mm flex and also amp to cab leads at 4mm oxygen free from HiFi shops. I am over that now but always make sure by amp goes straight in the wall and not via many extension leads. Volt drop at venues, definitely affects your tone particularly in the bass, i have gone into this before on here, when in Marquees just be aware long standard extensions are a tone killers. I have noticed this in Hotels also when the dish washers go on just as you take to the stage, as well as chillers in the Bar cutting in, you can physically hear the change.

Lots of good advice posted above, Construction is key. so go try loads of secondhand high end basses, as suggested Bass Direct near Warwick should be on your list and Bass Bros are not far away so worth a trip in that direction. I did use one of these Aphex below, a suggestion if you get the choice wrong. I don't need now i have the right basses and cabs. But I'm have found a 1/4 sawn maple neck with swamp ash body the way to go, a light resonant bass is the start point. I am happy with my 5 string but is a very good Marleaux. I bought on here second hand about 15 years ago. and as a pointer I have recently bought a Sadowsky 4 string with the best sounding bottom octave E - E I have ever heard. Which makes me wonder what their 5 string are like. It is Ash and chambered. Good luck try everything.

I think this is the only selling point, but No I'm happy locked in my room upstairs

Exactly this. Some know what their roll should be in a band situation others do not. For me they should cover Keyboard based tunes as a Pianist and everyone else steps back. In other pieces they should be handling the Brass, Sax and string parts.

Thanks LOWDOWN amazing just my thing, something to aim for

This is my ear worm at the moment, i seem to be singing it all day. So this is what i'm listening to, there is a why, and that is I am playing this arrangement at the moment. One rehearsal and can't get it out of my head. Barry Manilow back Piano duties with Bette on this one.

I have re read your post so my original comments now removed are not valid, thought you were referring to the nylon guide on a zero fretted bass. what a difference that full stop makes 🤫

I'm just wondering why you would alter a zero fret design, as it is the zero fret that is setting the string height and is same material as all other frets, The nylon string guide is just that, any plastic material will do just to keep the strings in line over the zero fret. The only reason I changed one on my Status Electro was allowing for different coated strings of larger diameter than the current slots. So made a new guide out of i nice piece of Yew i had, which complemented the body and fret-board. but the zero fret stayed.

I am now researching and answering my own post 😄 Warwick Just A Nut III for 4-string Basses, Plastic The current Just-A-Nut III is the most progressive design yet for a part that is so essential to the playability and sound transmission of the instrument. We have discovered Tedur, a polymer strengthened with fiberglass, whose outstanding abilities to transmit vibration was proven in laboratory tests, which then became the basis for further tests revealing that Tedur is extraordinarily resistant against breakage and wear. With that, Tedur has fulfilled all the expectations we’ve placed on a modern nut.

I did have a Streamer broad neck many years back, with a Just -A-Nut III that i upgraded it to, I am just wondering now If Warwick have always used TEDUR to make their nuts, and Sadowsky have adopted this on their basses but in white to simulate Bone. Does anybody know if Warwick nuts have always been TEDUR or is this new to Sadowsky Metro's.

High Guys n Gals Just thought it worth asking what material you are Nuts about at the thin end of your finger board. I, like most of you have experienced most types of bass nut materials on many different basses over time. Bone was favoured by luthiers and still is by many. Mass production saw us given a hard Nylon material by the likes of Fender, some of these were changed after market with Brass nuts. Some manufacturers started out with brass nuts. Warwick introduced us to Bell Brass frets, and adjust a nut. I, II, III Are you happy with your strings and ultimately your tone balancing on two little screws? I have liked all the basses i have had with a Zero fret, and a string guide only nut. It seems a logical long term solution. The open string will sound the same as all other frets, a subject always for debate when other materials are used. We have also seen Graphite nuts and Mamouth TUSK the list goes on, and Now :- Having just purchased a Sadowsky bass with Tedur nut, I am thinking , what the hell is TEDUR, interesting that that German Sadowsky's by Warwick use this too but in the Just-A-nut III format, where Roger in NYC is keeping his TEDUR firmly routed to the wood ? Any thoughts on your NUTS ? Below is what i found out about TEDUR. A low thermal expansion coefficient that is comparable to aluminum as well as high rigidity mean that TEDUR® is highly suitable as a replacement for metal. Aluminum has already been replaced by TEDUR® in many applications, such as a mounting frame for driver assistance cameras. The camera lens bracket must have a high level of dimensional stability and rigidity, so that the lens is not affected by driving or due to warping. However, TEDUR® is useful as more than just a replacement for metal. Its excellent hydrolysis and chemical resistance, even at high temperatures, are the basis for using TEDUR® in cooling systems, for example in pump components, pump valves or extruded pipes. Cooling circuits, in particular, are becoming ever more important due to e-mobility and the increasing demands placed on materials. Especially with regard to battery cooling, there are much higher requirements compared to a standard combustion engine. While the relatively robust power units previously needed to be cooled mainly when in driving mode, power storage units are more sensitive to increased temperatures and must be cooled both when in driving mode (unloading) and also during charging. Materials used in the cooling circuit are therefore exposed to loads for significantly longer periods, and must be replaced by more resistant materials. The long-lasting resistance of TEDUR® is therefore important so that extruded pipes, pumps and valves continue to function reliably even after many years of use. Over to you for comment.

changing the singer or guitarist can have the same affect without medication 😆

Interesting topic at everyone's heart - thanks for posting. Like many I'm a creature of habit, and usually start a gig with some mid scoop on my amp ?? without trying to find out what the room needs. Then spend the first set tweaking. That said even when I have had nice basses with the great flexible pre- Amps. I find myself never altering the Pan from center, I rarely boost bass or treble, but find the bass's Para-mid my go to adjustment, song to song. My main working bass for about 12 years was a Shuker with soap bars and a 5 knob East pre, with a passive tone knob. just used that and the Para-mid. I Just got a Sadowsky NYC with soap bars, the organic tone of the bass is amazing in the Low, low- Mids. Again Pan stays center, It doesn't need any active boost Low or High with Amp set flat. Love it in Passive mode. Just getting used to having no Para - mid. I did get into a conversation with John E. about having a pre -amp with just a Vol, pan, + 2 Para mids. I think it would be really useful tool on any bass.

😄 Yes - can bust a few Kidneys with that, doesn't get out much these days. Back to 1 x 12 next week.

Went well , the bass player was awesome 😁