lettsguitars

[quote name='NURZE' timestamp='1359037130' post='1948799'] In some cases that will be the main reason. But in my case it's the entire neck that's crooked and the bridge seems to be crooked as well... I'll post better pics when I get it back... [/quote]You need to tell them the neck has warped over time. It is a definate bow (sideways bow). Necks obviously bow upwards when under tension hence the need for truss rods. A neck should never ever EVER bow to the side like. It is wholly unacceptable and should be replaced!

[quote name='bigthumb' timestamp='1359035643' post='1948762'] Indeed! [/quote] How do they do that?

[quote name='bigthumb' timestamp='1359035231' post='1948756'] I had one with a similar problem, the G string being VERY close to the edge of the fingerboard thus constantly slipping off! Right pain in the rear end. Hope you get it sorted. [/quote]A simple case of the bridge being in the wrong place again.

Wood is very good at holding tension and would not move continually due to this tension. It settles into a position and that's your lot. The only thing that will bend wood is high temperature. The way the wood is sawn also does not cause continual movement like this. When you cut a piece of wood it does move but is usually a single movement and becomes a permanent and constant bow or cup, or both. The main reason for continual movement such as this, is the woods moisture content. Wood that is prepared in hot humid countries that is then shipped and stored in temperate to cold climates will gradually lose it's moisture and move in constant relation to the the moisture content. Also when you buy guitars that are made in factories they contain wood that is kiln dried by the ton and you will always get a few problem pieces or even a whole batch that is dried badly (necks especially). Kiln drying is actually not the ideal method to season musical instrument timber for various reasons which are google-able. If you bought this from new you should definately be entitled to a new bass as the materials used would seem unsuitable. Please dont quote me when consulting mm as I'm sure they have many evil lawyers at work around the globe. They could argue that you have stored your guitar in unsuitable conditions ie next to a radiator, in a sauna etc.

Fast fret? yeeuck! I hate it! Coats your strings and fretboard in rubbish. Just clean your strings with lighter fluid.

[quote name='morsefull' timestamp='1358977035' post='1948105'] I've tried the hat and sunglasses. Made me feel a pratt ............. [/quote]There's part of your problem right there! They're not called sunglasses!

Just be confident. That is all anyone needs. Move with the music not the tempo

How do mate. Nice to gain new worldwide voices. We'll beat talkbass yet! Easy now.

[quote name='Skol303' timestamp='1358445300' post='1939378'] Cheers the input Luke, appreciated. The build is now going ahead with a mahogany/wenge through-neck and mahogany 'wings' making up the body. Paul (13 Guitar Co) is likewise a supporter of mahogany as a good material for basses. I've played - but not owned - a few myself and always found them to have a nice solid tone/feel and a great appearance too; it's a lovely wood all round! [/quote]It's all good Skolster. Tonewoods? Of course tonewoods. Any material will have an impact on the resonant frequency of any instrument. Mahogany is a great place to start. It is also very nice to work with and offers just the right amount of flexibility for neck relief adjustments. The only downside is it can be quite easy to ding, but having said that it is very very easy to fix dings in a natural finish. I agree that weight/balance/playability are top priority, although looks are just as important unless you are a blind man/woman.

Innit. A couple of quid youth. Forstner bit are nice but lip and spur is pretty normal. Fast drill speed and enter the wood very slowly.

You just need a regular lip and spur bit.

Try and listen to some different music. Bass player music maybe if you dont already. Something to amaze and inspire you to be better. I find 'bands' increasingly tedious lately and am always looking for great players rather than great bands. Maybe, dunno. Either that or sod off

Definately looks 19th century. All the 'my gut instinct tells me' and 'in my opinion whilst not knowing anythin about the subject' remarks are truly inspirational

Cold and other temperatures does some very funny things to metal and I would hazard to say, irreparable damage to precise things like a guitar string.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1358889272' post='1946733'] Or open up the hole in the pickguard a bit in the right direction. [/quote]Yep, or that of course but not too far mind as you may need giant washers to cover up the mess.

Hmm. Yea. Vonax? Lemon oil wouldn't be a finish, more conditioner. Shoe polish is basically what is also termed as finishing wax. The natural kiwi stuff is fine or actual furniture finishing wax from your local hardware shop. It's all just a mix of bees wax and carnauba wax. Do not apply any oil previous to waxing, or indeed wax before oil. The warwick stuff is fine but like I say, it is only shoe polish with warwick sticker on the tin

If it is warping the plate then I'd say there is some kind of pressure. You could always take a slice of wood out.

If it works it works although it isn't going to help the lifespan of said jack or indeed pickguard.

Yea you wanna finish that. Wenge gets better/darker as you apply oil or wax. Oil will darken more. The reason for finishing is to prevent changes in humidity affecting the guitar. Ebony doesn't 'require' a finish but you would anyway. Wax it mate! Or spray with satin laquer if you want which is fine without grain fill.

Moisture not temperature is the problem. As above the problem can be that the dryness of the air could dry it out. As long as you dont leave it out all night you should fine.

How much are these things worth anyway?

Higher rated pots suck more tone out of your bass it depends on the output of your pickups if you go too low with a high output it gets a bit 'all or nothing'. Caps are usually 45microfarad. The orange uns

All passive? Log pots for volume (250k) Linear for tone (250k). Split shaft for push fit knobs. Solid shaft for grub screw type knobs.

I would say that that is a pretty decent old bass and has probably never had any adjustment judging by the state of the original truss cover etc. Probabl all it needs is tightening up mate.

Absolutely. As long as it aint twisted and there is still a truss rod in it.