lettsguitars

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1358256478' post='1935649'] I think Verdine White has the same problem... [media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Lid4mMad8o[/media] [/quote]Oh my god. What a guy. Someone needs to tell him that there are more than 3 notes on a bass. Some of which are even in the right key. I guess that's funk for you.

A very useful trick if you wanna use an amp but dont want to piss off your neighbours with endless takes is to record direct and then 're-amp' the signal once you get a good take.

Are you sure it's not just your solo face?

Most surely! Or use the insert thingys (fx loop)

Too good!!

[quote name='thefyst' timestamp='1358249378' post='1935400'] anything except lexicon. Line 6 tone port for less than a fiver ... [url="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Line-6-TonePort-GX-/251211334137?pt=UK_Musical_AudioMIDI_Interfaces&hash=item3a7d5cc1f9"]http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3a7d5cc1f9[/url] [/quote]The omega is proper sh*t!

Not so bad without vocals. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QjihRnoSac0

Timing.

[quote name='Conan' timestamp='1358253945' post='1935579'] I thihnk you [i]have[/i] to have a sense of humour to be a bass player... [/quote]It's all about the er . . . .

LOL! I hope my super sense of wit reaches you in good health. Or IHMSSOWRYIGH (which should from now on should be added to any witty remark).

I'm sorry but unless you only ever work on the same guitar with a radius that is bang on with your block this cannot work. A board can sometimes have a radius that has very slight changes over the whole board. A block gives you very little control and can only ever level frets that conform EXACTLY! Maybe it works for you but I would never even consider this method. Anyone who is buying stuff from stewmac is mental I do have a few bits (yes radius blocks, files etc) which I got when I was new to this and knew no better. I soon realised that they are a bunch of old gits who will relabel any old sh*t, create a job for it and sell it for 10 times its worth. This is all light hearted banter by the way. I am in no way dissing your methods. Whatever work s for you. I will jump out of this one now. I've said my piece and it's getting a bit silly. Fret leveling is a simple business and no matter how you go about it the end goal is the same. To remove any high spots without doing any needless damage to your frets. Laters. Jon

Just for the record. Heat has very little effect on wood. Moisture, or lack of, is our enemy. The house having a different humidity is the problem. Strings will change things for sure and everyone should have the balls to adjust their truss rods. It's a very simple affair. Use the rod to adjust action when necessary. A dead flat neck is not always best either. A little relief is fine. String height should increase gradually up to the 12th fret and the level out all the way up to the end of the board.

You do not need to use a radius block for leveling. If the board is slightly different to your block you are gonna have flat spots all over the place.Not to mention compound radii. There is are massive problems with that method ebsfreak. See post above for details. Radius blocks are for putting radii into fretboards. Leveling bars are for leveling frets. Experience teaches, there is no such thing as wrong experience, only experience and learning.

Alesis I/O?

No you are wrong! The length of the leveler has all that under control. By rubbing up and down a fret board you are not keeping the frets level across their sideways plain (plane? whatever). You will end up with grooves in the frets. BAD NEWS!!! It is actually a mixture of the 2 which I cant be arsed to explain. Strings do not move up and down your board they can only move sideways therefore you want all marks (even very fine ones) to be along the same plain as string movement or you will hear those tiny scratches. Oh go on then. . . You stand next to the board and scrub back and forth while evenly moving up and down the board. This is the voice of experience not just some random thought process. The pen on top of the frets tells you when they are level. You do not need to level the whole board at the same time. DERR!

The calipers will be affected by the ridges in the string winding. They are obviously very accurate or what would be the point? Why do you need to measure your strings anyway? All sounds a bit anal to me You should zero the caliper before every reading.

[quote name='Jimryan' timestamp='1358189806' post='1934593'] Really?!? I wouldn't have thought of using it. [/quote]REALLY! Dont waste your money on stuff 'aimed' at guitarists. It's all bullshit. Swan rules!

The best degreaser is naptha (lighter fluid).

There are some very cool melodies on all the albums and Jojo mayer is one nasty drummer. Tim miller and keyboard player (name escapes me) are also toppety top. All fine musicians on all his albums. Well worth the time in my book.

[quote name='ZenBasses' timestamp='1358034317' post='1932297'] Can I just add Or Despite the fact they are plastic essentially you'd look such a spanner playing one. Bass Labs hmmmnn [/quote]You probably need a spanner to play that thing. Oh my god!

I think someone mausta left that next to a radiator too long.

You dont record the same bass line twice. The engineer may double track the original take with various effects but not neccessarily.

Frets.