Telebass

The only thing I might suggest is trying to find a similar 88 Stage II as a backup. Never go out with just one instrument. The statistics WILL catch up, sooner or later...

Greetings, good to get back into it!

Greetings, Andrew!

Greetings, welcome back!

Greetings!

[quote name='skankdelvar' post='390623' date='Jan 24 2009, 07:43 PM']500w and 4kg? They'll break inside 5 minutes, trust me.[/quote] That's a whole kilo more than a LMII... And Lemmywinks, if yours is cutting out, check all speaker wiring. The only time I've heard of these cutting out is when faced with too low an impedance.

Well, surely I'm qualified to have a word on this? Play both SCPB and Tele MkII types, the MKII in the form of the Squier VM P TB. The pickup is a good repro, very hot at 22kohm. The originals ran at about 24 or 25. As a comparison, original Gibson 'mudbuckers' were wound to 30kOhms - no wonder they were muddy! I've found the bass to be quite usable, but it does demand very differrent settings on the amp. If anyone does the mod, be really careful not to lose the pole pieces. On this type of pickup, the polepieces ARE the magnets, and they are special types. You can't easily machine a thread into alnico magnets - they are too brittle. So Seth Lover had these made from CuNiFe, copper/nickel/iron. As an aside to that, AlNiCo is, in reality just the flavouring added to the mix, as is the copper and nickel in CuNiFe.

There's still enough places left for me to get what sounds I need, so on they stay!

Chrome, chrome, and more chrome. MMMmmmmm....

Split coil or SC Precision: Gain: 9 to 10 o'clock; Low 12 to 2 o'clock; mid-low same; high mid 2 o'clock; high 2 o'clock; VLE 12 0'clock; VPF 12 o'clock; master 11 o'clock. Telecaster bass type II with mudbucker: Gain: 9; Low 9; mid low 9; mid high 4; high 4; VLE off; VPF max; master 10, all o'clock. CMD 121H with Behringer 1x12 wedge containg the same B&C driver as the combo.

1) Active tone controls. That's what your amp's for, chaps... 2) Exotic wood basses - why do you want to play furniture? 3) Complexity - gets in the way, will be less reliable. KISS...

Best of both - a Precision! ...I'll get me coat...

*blushes* Ta!

Welcome! Another MArkbass convert. Great, aren't they?

Welcome, Chuck!

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='333169' date='Nov 20 2008, 02:54 PM']so if I have an amp which has a set bias and hypothetically was running at the correct bias - could there have been something wrong with the valve to start off with which could have caused it to fail and knacker up the others?[/quote] As escholl said, yes.

Oooooooooooooooooooooooh..................... No.

[quote name='casapete' post='333180' date='Nov 20 2008, 03:19 PM']Think it was Eric Johnson who reckoned he could tell the difference between various brands of battery in his pedals (!) Also remember him saying how he liked them after a certain level of use for optimum tone etc.[/quote] I love his playing, but sometimes, he's a 'tonehound' too far!

No, not [i]that[/i] fragile but vastly more so than modern solid state. As to the Mig-29 thing...The EMP from a nuclear burst will instantly destroy all solid state devices not explicitly designed to cope, or without some external protection measures. The high voltage induced in valve circuits tends to simply arc across the valve plates and dissipate through the circuitry, which still needs to be 'hardened' a bit, but will otherwise have a good chance of survival. If a power valve fails due to incorrect biasing, it's usually because the bias was set too high, or a resistor value has changed somewhat due to heat. The valve then tends to suffer thermal runaway as current increases cause further current increases. Quite often, the valve envelope can melt down, and the screen grid resistor burns out. This can throw a load onto the other valve in the pair, sometimes causing that one to suffer the same sequence of events.

MU, now free cover to 2 gerand, including unattended motors, plus public liability. I'm no political 'union' type man, but I'll always be a member.

PS: One thing Leo got terribly wrong, on the Esquire/Broadcaster/Telecaster/Precision was the useless jack socket design. How that's still going passeth all understanding...I replaced mine with an Electrosocket!

[quote name='SteveO' post='332848' date='Nov 20 2008, 07:17 AM']Was it? I always thought it was just to give us better control over the tone. You learn something new every day, as my dad used to say.[/quote] The first active bass was British (Burns TR2), and that was done for tone control, so far as I can tell. Alembic was next, and the worst killer for tone then was poor, overlong guitar leads. Using an active circuit, whether for tone also or not, drives the cable, overcoming a large part of the inherent losses due to capacitance. As cables have improved, the emphasis is quite rightly on tone control now. The true reason I use a radio is because I'm a dab-hand expert at destroying expensive cables... The other reason I like to keep it simple is that, radio aside, there's nowt between my nice sounding Precisions and my nice Markbass amp. Simple is what matters when gigging a lot. The simpler it is, the less there is to go wrong...

[quote name='noelk27' post='331843' date='Nov 18 2008, 09:32 PM']Well, every bass model in the Fender catalogue[/quote] Precisely. The catalogues are not reliable guides as to what colours were available. Matching headstocks could be had on anything during the 60s, but to special order only. Production custom colour Precisions with matching H/S are very unusual...

[quote name='tauzero' post='332188' date='Nov 19 2008, 12:08 PM']So the radio is one of those wind-up ones then?[/quote] Natch! Seriously, the radio removes the cable loss, which was the original purpose of active anyway...

Oh no, don't like that (I know, surprise surprise...) Interesting to see those amps behind Sterling. IIRC, they were built by some Italian guy called Marco!