tauzero Posted November 20, 2023 Share Posted November 20, 2023 4 hours ago, DaleASmith said: pretty much off topic, but I just bought a second hand EHX Bass Blogger and the first thing I did was plug it into a 12v supply.. It's knackered. Any use to anyone? 12V centre positive by any chance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleASmith Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 12v Neg centre. It does still work a bit, but the fuzz comes and goes. Sounds very noisy. When I plugged the power in, the red "on" light came on and stayed on regardless of the switch position. The red light now works as expected but as I say, the pedal sounds like stinky poo. I know a guy who knows a guy who is currently repairing my Morley Power Fuzz Wah ( non power related issue) so I might just throw it at him when I see him next... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloke_zero Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 On 20/11/2023 at 14:08, LukeFRC said: But built up fine in a 1590b with top jacks … not masses of wiggle room though!! blue bits are tape on the back of pots and the input Jack. sounds great - I built a barbershop clone (v1) and the circuit is very similar - this is like it’s big heavier brother tonally, plus with eq Cool project - it came it very well! What are the trimmers trimming? And no replication of the Sag? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted November 21, 2023 Share Posted November 21, 2023 1 hour ago, bloke_zero said: Cool project - it came it very well! What are the trimmers trimming? And no replication of the Sag? there's three FETs in there 2x J201 and a 2N5457 - the trimmers are to bias them. The sag then underbias the 2N5457 Circuit is stupidly similar to the Barbershop except the Barbershop (v1) the bias under biases all 3 J201. Doesn't sound the same though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bloke_zero Posted November 22, 2023 Share Posted November 22, 2023 13 minutes ago, LukeFRC said: there's three FETs in there 2x J201 and a 2N5457 - the trimmers are to bias them. The sag then underbias the 2N5457 Circuit is stupidly similar to the Barbershop except the Barbershop (v1) the bias under biases all 3 J201. Doesn't sound the same though. Ah, the joy of overdrive in all it's many flavours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
disssa Posted November 23, 2023 Share Posted November 23, 2023 My version of the Traynor TS-50B preamplifier: 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie Posted November 26, 2023 Share Posted November 26, 2023 Hypothetically, would it be possible to mod a Boss BB-1X to replace the TRS line out with an XLR socket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted November 26, 2023 Share Posted November 26, 2023 3 minutes ago, Alfie said: Hypothetically, would it be possible to mod a Boss BB-1X to replace the TRS line out with an XLR socket? Looking at it, there doesn't seem to be room, plus the TRS socket might be PCB mounted. If you wanted to rebox it, you should be able to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted November 26, 2023 Share Posted November 26, 2023 3 hours ago, Alfie said: Hypothetically, would it be possible to mod a Boss BB-1X to replace the TRS line out with an XLR socket? Probably not - if Boss could they maybe would have done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie Posted November 26, 2023 Share Posted November 26, 2023 Thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted November 26, 2023 Share Posted November 26, 2023 1 hour ago, Alfie said: Thank you A TRS to xlr cable or adapt or would be simplest - if it were me, and in the spirit of this thread, I would be doing TRS-TRS cable into a 1590a with TRS in and XLR out and stick it on the underside of my board Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted November 26, 2023 Share Posted November 26, 2023 18 minutes ago, LukeFRC said: A TRS to xlr cable or adapt or would be simplest - if it were me, and in the spirit of this thread, I would be doing TRS-TRS cable into a 1590a with TRS in and XLR out and stick it on the underside of my board Or just a box with a flying lead to TRS so as to reduce the number of contacts the signal goes through. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie Posted November 26, 2023 Share Posted November 26, 2023 I just fancied a Boss compact as a DI with XLR out as a cool thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sibob Posted November 27, 2023 Share Posted November 27, 2023 (edited) 16 hours ago, Alfie said: I just fancied a Boss compact as a DI with XLR out as a cool thing. Appreciate that it's not in the spirit of the thread, but just get the MXR M81. Excellent clean preamp, just as compact as the Boss (a little more I think, as it's physically lower), additional XLR out. Done. Si Edited November 27, 2023 by Sibob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sibob Posted December 5, 2023 Share Posted December 5, 2023 I don’t suppose anyone has any of the following Davies 1510 knob colours going spare? 1x Pink 1x Transparent 1x Violet Cheers Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alfie Posted December 5, 2023 Share Posted December 5, 2023 12 hours ago, Sibob said: I don’t suppose anyone has any of the following Davies 1510 knob colours going spare? 1x Pink 1x Transparent 1x Violet Cheers Si 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sibob Posted December 5, 2023 Share Posted December 5, 2023 2 hours ago, Alfie said: PM’d Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleASmith Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 Apologies for another "Could I add X to Y" post. I've just picked up an Orange Bass Butler. The signal is split into 2 cannels, both have a DI output with speaker sim. Would it be possible to add an effects loop to each channel before the speaker simulation. Its a fairly large unit so space wise if could be possible. Anyone have any thoughts on this? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 28 minutes ago, DaleASmith said: Apologies for another "Could I add X to Y" post. I've just picked up an Orange Bass Butler. The signal is split into 2 cannels, both have a DI output with speaker sim. Would it be possible to add an effects loop to each channel before the speaker simulation. Its a fairly large unit so space wise if could be possible. Anyone have any thoughts on this? cheers It depends theoretically- how difficult it would be would depend on the pcb - are you thinking passive loop (potential impedance issues) or buffered loop? you might find it easier to have a separate effects loops pedal with a speaker Sun circuit after the return Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaleASmith Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 16 minutes ago, LukeFRC said: It depends theoretically- how difficult it would be would depend on the pcb - are you thinking passive loop (potential impedance issues) or buffered loop? you might find it easier to have a separate effects loops pedal with a speaker Sun circuit after the return I was hoping to have a loop on each channel ( as each channel is effectively a pre amp) but I've no idea what's involved. I could just use the XLR outputs that carry the speaker sim signal, but I'm not sure this is ideal as this is a DI. No idea about the PCB at all, and no idea re passive or buffered. sorry that's no help at all... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandy_r Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 On 26/11/2023 at 17:44, Alfie said: I just fancied a Boss compact as a DI with XLR out as a cool thing. +1 for adaptor, as mentioned above. An adaptor provides the nearest, cheapest & most flexible X->Y solution:- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LukeFRC Posted January 20 Share Posted January 20 1 hour ago, DaleASmith said: I was hoping to have a loop on each channel ( as each channel is effectively a pre amp) but I've no idea what's involved. I could just use the XLR outputs that carry the speaker sim signal, but I'm not sure this is ideal as this is a DI. No idea about the PCB at all, and no idea re passive or buffered. sorry that's no help at all... you would need to trace the circuit back - work out where the preamp ends and the cab sim begins and then cut the trace there and send it to switched jacks .... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandy_r Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 (edited) 12 hours ago, DaleASmith said: I was hoping to have a loop on each channel ( as each channel is effectively a pre amp) but I've no idea what's involved. ... Some things are possible but they're not practical To give you some idea of what's involved, here are some views of the PCB & connectors Effects loops are often post-EQ (but would be pre-EQ in a bass --> pedalboard --> amp type setup) To insert 2x post-EQ FX loops (1 for 'clean' channel, 1 for 'grit') in the Bass Butler, the most direct way would be to look near the Amp o/p path: both channels end with a Volume control (and may not need buffering at this point), and they are pre cab-sim The 'grit' Vol pot's three connections are top-right in this crop, and the 'clean' Vol pot's 3 connections are bottom-left (helpfully obscured by a capacitor!). Depending on how the control pot is designed into the circuit, you'll probably need to use the Max-level and wiper solder connection of each pot for the Loop Send & Return connections. In this case, for the 'grit' pot, the max-level would be the right-hand of the 3. For the 'clean' pot, the order is swapped L-to-R IF the pot is designed in with the wiper (middle) as output (a fairly common 'Volume Control' type config) that would be the track to break into for the Return connection (the Send connection just being soldered to the max connection of the pot). If the wiper track leads to a capacitor, then the cap can be removed to make the break (and an equivalent replacement soldered inline with the new Return wire), if not, that track will need to be cut (carefully and completely!) Otherwise, you would need to apply the steps in the previous para, swapping Send/Return references to the max and wiper connections of the pot How can you tell which applies? If you were into Electronics, you'd probably check signal levels on the 2 pots with a scope or other test equipment. No test equipment? ...try that earlier para first - if you can plug an FX into your new Loop and it works, stop work immediately, go down the pub and offer up prayers to St Kirchhoff! If it doesn't work, swap the Send & Return wires at the pot, go down the pub, etc. If it still doesn't work ...then you've learnt why some people design & maintain Tech, whilst others just buy and use it 😉 That was the easy bit Ok - 2 FX Send/Return Loops... you either need 4x mono jack sockets, or 2x stereo/TRS sockets. Orange have sized the case to fit fairly compactly round the PCB, leaving space for connectors on the rear side, below the board (from the User/Operational PoV). Looking at the existing connector space, an extra 4 mono jack sockets looks like a no-go - 2 extra TRS jacks? Your call When you've decided where you can fit the Jacks (and still make the mod not look like a Kluge), how easy it going to be to drill the case (after you've removed all the existing electronics - PCB+controls & connectors, to avoid contamination by swarf)? Do you have the necessary tools, or will you have to buy some in? If it doesn't work out - or sound - as you'd hoped, have you just decimated the resale value of the Bass Butler? TL; DR ? Enjoy using your Bass Butler (while you wait for v2 with the extra 2 FX Loops) Edited January 21 by sandy_r 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tauzero Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 8 hours ago, sandy_r said: If the wiper track leads to a capacitor, then the cap can be removed to make the break (and an equivalent replacement soldered inline with the new Return wire), if not, that track will need to be cut (carefully and completely!) Alternatively, unsolder the wiper from the PCB and lift it out, and you have your break. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandy_r Posted January 21 Share Posted January 21 (edited) 10 minutes ago, tauzero said: Alternatively, unsolder the wiper from the PCB and lift it out, and you have your break. ...agreed - even further along the 'things which are possible but not always practical' scale Edited January 21 by sandy_r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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