BC 8" cab

[SpondonBassed]

Ahem!

 

(Sorry Tauzer.)

[Si600]

2 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

 

Two and a half months?

Years.    Twerp 

 

 

2 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

Oh, and belated con-flippin'-gratulations to you and Mrs 600!

 

(Coo-ee Lickle 600!)

 

Thank you.  He'd wave back I'm sure if he was here.  He's very keen on waving at everybody at the moment.

[tauzero]

5 hours ago, Si600 said:

Stupid question, but could you make a cab out of perspex?  I'm thinking something like the appearance of a glass tower block where the plates are held with stainless buttons and the like?  Or maybe just face a plywood box with thin sheets to make it look like a glass cube.

 

Just wondering really, I'm not going to attempt it  

 

Nah, you want Lexan. If it's good enough for the Robot Wars arena, it'll stand up to anything.

[tauzero]

6 hours ago, rwillett said:

Also not sure if I want or need to round the edges. People seem to do it but I'm not sure why. 

 

Not really necessary if you're not putting cab corners on, although I suspect that rounding the edges would make them a little less prone to damage. If you are putting cab corners on, they need to be flush with the faces so rounded edges are a must.

[SpondonBassed]

1 hour ago, Si600 said:

Years.    Twerp

 

  

2 hours ago, Si600 said:

I am making a simple 6 panel chest for my son's first birthday.

 

My mistake?

 

Berk.

[Si600]

Sorry Spondz, the joke was that the chest is for his first birthday, but he's already nearly three years old.

 

I seem to have missed that deadline.

Edited November 28, 2025 by Si600

[SpondonBassed]

38 minutes ago, Si600 said:

Sorry Spondz, the joke was that the chest is for his first birthday, but he's already nearly three years old.

 

I seem to have missed that deadline.

 

1 hour ago, SpondonBassed said:

Berk.

 

Slacker.

[SpondonBassed]

3 hours ago, SpondonBassed said:

Ahem!

 

(Sorry Tauzer.)

 

Ditto.

[Si600]

19 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

Slacker.

In my defence, poor though it is, once he's finally in bed my desire to do anything but collapse isn't there. Also, the workshop is under his bedroom and banging about with chisels will cause no end of ructions.

 

 

Also, sorry Tauzie 😉

[djk]

On 21/11/2025 at 07:53, rwillett said:

Does anybody have any experience of Granotone speaker paint? 

 

I'm looking at options for finishing the cab. 

 

So far I could paint it in a similar way to @Pea Turgh or I could use a more traditional textured speaker paint or I could do something off the wall like Rustins textured step paint in red. 

 

I rather fancied red speakers and did look at Tuff Cab but they have none in stock of any colour. I've been told Tuff Cab is really Aldcrofts in Bolton but a number of people elsewhere have stated that Aldcrofts are very difficult to deal with. I'll drop them an email and see what they say. I can drive to Bolton quite easily if I choose to work in Manchester for the day. 

 

Most of the black speaker paint appears to be expensive and come in quarts or fathoms or gallons or something. The Warnex stuff appears to be in German and even though I lived in Hamburg for a while my German is crap. 

 

There's doesn't appear to be a lot of choice here so wondered if anybody had tried Granotone or have other suggestions for a tough finish. It looks like there are more open mics and other sessions comjng up so I think I need a tough finish on these cabs. 

 

Thoughts welcomed. 

 

Rob

 

[djk]

 

 

This is one of the BassChat 110's I've made. I covered it with van carpet. Very red I know but it's different, which is what I wanted.

[Stub Mandrel]

21 hours ago, djk said:

 

 

This is one of the BassChat 110's I've made. I covered it with van carpet. Very red I know but it's different, which is what I wanted.

 

Luvvit!

[djk]

Having finished the two BC1x10's I decided that I'd have a go at the BC1x8 which is well under way. At the same time I have also decided to build something to house the 15" Eminence driver that I'd been given a while ago.

 

Both underway and at different stages of completion. I used an opensource plan as the basis for the 1x15  using WinISD to attempt to tune the final design. Only time will tell how it sounds.

 

After these it's on to finishing the two bass guitars that are in the pipeline, a VOX Phantom tribute, planned to be short scale, and a new old stock Dan Armstrong body that I bought recently.

 

It's a good job woodwork was my favorite subject at school.

[djk]

Today at the Mens Shed workshop I had time to cut the BassChat 1x8 driver aperture and all went well, I'm hoping to be able to get it to a testable state Wednesday.

 

I have one question regarding the cabinet design that I'm hoping someone can help with.

 

I'd like to include a slot rather than use a circular port. I've done a bit of web searching and it would appear that, whilst this is a possibility, when it comes to try to calculate the slot dimensions every online calculator I use produces a different answer.

 

My preferred choice would be to use as near to square as possible dimension, and the nearest I get using the online calculators is a 4x4cm slot with a depth of 5cm.

 

Any advice or help would be more than welcomed and appreciated.

 

Thanks, David

 

 

[nekomatic]

If you want to use a port with a square cross-section rather than a round one, I think you just need to make the length and the cross-section area the same. So if the area of the circle (pi * r^2) was say 25 cm^2 then a 5 x 5 cm square port of the same length should give you the same tuning. 
 

By ‘slot port’ I understand a slot in the baffle with no extra depth behind it and I believe the dimensions of that are harder to calculate correctly, especially if the slot is at one end of the baffle. Can you sketch what you had in mind, and is there a particular reason not to use a cylindrical port? Personally I’d just go with the latter, I found it easy enough to construct. 

[rwillett]

If it helps I can probably print a square port of that approx size

[nekomatic]

3 hours ago, nekomatic said:

If you want to use a port with a square cross-section rather than a round one, I think you just need to make the length and the cross-section area the same. So if the area of the circle (pi * r^2) was say 25 cm^2 then a 5 x 5 cm square port of the same length should give you the same tuning. 

I’ve re-read this and it might be confusing - what I mean is, the cross-section area of the square port should be the same as for the cylindrical port, and the length of the square port should be the same as the length of the cylindrical port. 
 

As I understand it the straightforward calculation for port dimensions assumes that the inside end of the port is in free space inside the cabinet, not next to the cabinet wall, so that’s why calculating the right size for an end slot (or triangular corner port, etc) isn’t so easy.