Truss rod adjustment - the hierarchy of horror

[tauzero]

I've got a couple of truss rods to adjust and as I'm waiting for strings before I do one and I want to get some momentum before tackling the other, here are my truss rod adjustments from easiest to hardest.

 

• Headless bass with truss rod adjustment at the unheadstock end, generally a 4mm hex key - easy, but you need to know which way to turn it
• Truss rod wheel (why did Cort use that on the headless Space 4 and 5 when they could have put a 4mm adjuster at the other end of the neck?)
• Headed bass with uncovered adjuster at headstock end
• Hex key adjuster at body end (why did Ibanez use that on the headless EHBs?)
• Headed bass with covered adjuster at headstock end, with extra points if the adjuster requires a special tool (Pedulla, and their truss rod turns in the unconventional direction too) and the following sub-categories:

1. Pivoting cover section (Ibanez SRF705, don't know about others)
2. Tool-free removable cover section (Warwick) - just be careful not to lose that bit
3. Truss rod cover held on with screws - bonus points for using multiple screws, the worst so far has been Esh with four (guess which bass I need to get a bit of momentum up for?)

• And finally, and I'm so glad I don't have any of these any more, the awful ones that you have to take the neck off to adjust

 

It also helps to know which way to turn the truss rod. My Warwicks and Seis and the Pedulla all need the adjuster turning anticlockwise to tighten the truss rod (decrease relief), everything else is the other way.

 

Any other truss rod adjustment types? I haven't included double truss rods as they're just two of the same, nor have I mentioned having to bend Rickenbacker necks in order to tighten the truss rod as I've never owned one so never had to perform that operation.

[itu]

You didn't mention how useful a torque wrench can be, especially with two rods.