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Posted

Last night I was braver with my flatting, and I got it pretty much flat.  Unfortunately, I sprayed a couple of coats over the top and it's gone a bit orange peel-y.  Very frustrating, I've done the same thing in the same way for the past 3 nights.  I think I'll blast a couple more coats on it tonight before band rehearsal and see if it levels out a bit, after that I guess I'll just have to buff it out.  Pain.

 

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  • Sad 1
Posted

As your paint dilution and viscosity could be discarded, the orange peel effect appears when you're too far from the surface or too many passes (the paint is not dry enough between passes) or when there's a draft, or all of these.

Posted
9 minutes ago, Hellzero said:

As your paint dilution and viscosity could be discarded, the orange peel effect appears when you're too far from the surface or too many passes (the paint is not dry enough between passes) or when there's a draft, or all of these.

 

Must be the environmental then (am spraying in an unheated, uninsulated shed, so save for wind whatever's going on outside is happening inside also).  I'm using the same timings as before, as instructed on the can (3 minute shake, 2 coats 5 minutes apart at 6"/15cm distance, 15 mins touch dry, 24 hour cure), so I left it 15 mins between double coats and that was working fine for the past two nights.  I know men cannot be relied upon 100% to know what six inches looks like, but I'd like to think I was in the ball park most of the time...

Posted

My late father would have had the exact answer in no time as he explained me why, once (he wasn't pedagogical at all, so only once), why the orange peel effect appears, so as all, but the environment has been excluded, it was certainly too cold that night compared to the other times.

Posted

Ach, no matter, probably blast a couple more coats on that, then flatten back, then polish.  Should be fine.  Was just annoyed because it had been going on smooth and great until then.

  • Like 2
Posted

Left it for a few days, then did a proper flatten and polish - 1500 > 2000 > 2500 grit wet sanding followed by Meguiars Ultimate Compound for the final polish.  First time using Meguiars and wow, I'm sold.  The compound plus a microfibre cloth and job's a good 'un!  Not quite the "sheet of glass", but for a first go by an absolute beginner amateur who has never done anything like this before in his life, I'm pretty pleased with the outcome.  It looks... intentional?

 

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Looks better than this IRL.  The camera does lie!

 

So, as you can gather, it's all back together again.  Gave the fretboard a drink of lemon oil which it greedily accepted.  I can happily proclaim the outcome of my first ever full fret level and crowning to be a success - no high frets, no buzzes, very happy with that!

 

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It's playing pretty damn well, took a setup like a champ.  Truss rod on this super cheap neck is working great - obviously it was pretty slack from when I was doing the fret level, so when I put a fresh set of D'addario XLs on it it bent like a banana.  No matter, a full turn on the truss rod and it was back to straight - actually too straight for my liking so I loosened it about an 1/8 of a turn and then there was a sliver of relief - just how I like it.  Nut height feels OK to me - I'm no expert but I'm whizzing around the low frets no bother so I guess it's good.

 

There are only some minor things to sort out now.  The rotten bit at the bottom/back of the body.  I'm not wedded to these amber speed knobs.  I get quite a bit of touch buzz off the pole pieces of the Warman pickup and because it's fully epoxy potted, there's no way to earth them from the back, so unless I've done something wrong in the wiring, I'll have to do the old "lacquer/nail varnish on the pole pieces" trick.

 

And because some of you care about these things, it weighs 3.7kg/8.15lbs on the bathroom scales.  It's not a heavy bass by any means, but it has enough heft to keep me happy.

  • Like 6
Posted (edited)

That's looking good.  I imagine you will have a lot of fun tweaking things like the knobs (as mentioned) and the control cavity cover.

 

I had a chuckle to myself when I saw how the G string obscures the view of your "deliberate" mistake of leaving out the line in the note's tail.  Did I see you had managed to fix it in an earlier image?

 

Why not make a feature of the rotted part?  Maybe a bit of faux gold filler to make it stand out.  Transparent coloured fillers can look good too.  Wire brush the rotten fragment out to leave an interesting texture and wah-hay!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by SpondonBassed

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