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Two Heads


farmer61
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Just invested in a second, standby Trace head, same impedance (?) as my main head.

Is it possible to connect both heads to my cabs to switch between heads, while using the same cabs mid gig.

Ie a bit like this.......

Head >
[color="#FFFFFF"]...............[/color]Switch > Cab1 > Cab2
Head >

There is method to my madness.......

Edited by farmer61
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He's trying to achieve two different amps that are switchable into just one cab. Easy?!

I presume you are talking solid state amps here?

Next question, what are the output in watts of these amps...

If you are less than 350 watts per head, you can get a special order Radial Headbone (higher power handling - the standard wants to have heads less than 200w) which should sort you out. If you go that route, make sure you get the SS version if you have 2 solid state heads, the VT if you have two valve heads or the TS if you have one valve head and one solid state.

Thinking about it, if you have SS Trace amps, they don't need a load on the transformer. A more simple A-B box with hardcore wiring in it may help. See what DHA says - he may be able to knock you something up.

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My main head is an AH 500w solid state head, the new one I've just purchased is a RAH 300w also solid state.

The main reason is if I'm taking two heads to gigs I may aswell use 'em. My singer does bass duties when I sing and he uses a passive bass where as I use a stingray with a 5 stingray as back up.

I am concerned that by keeping on switching leads out of jack sockets (Passive/active) during gigs, that someting jack or cable are soon going to bust, my frst plan to have cables in both active/passive jacks linked to a switch didn't work as it really impeaded the performance of the amp.

By doing this I can use active & passive basses on separate heads and then just switch between my cabs..

Just trying to find a solution to a problem using my spare kit.........

Thanks for the help so far!!!

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[quote name='farmer61' post='486759' date='May 13 2009, 11:26 AM']my frst plan to have cables in both active/passive jacks linked to a switch didn't work as it really impeaded the performance of the amp.[/quote]

In what way? What kind of switch were you using?

[quote]Just trying to find a solution to a problem using my spare kit.........[/quote]

I understand this, but it still seems like a very convoluted way to implement instrument switching, which is a problem that should surely be solvable, given how many millions of bass players have done it before you. I suppose it also gives you the benefit that you have your spare head already plugged in and switched on in case you need it, but how often will this be an issue?

S.P.

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[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='486777' date='May 13 2009, 11:42 AM']In what way? What kind of switch were you using? S.P.[/quote]

A Boss A/B switch, having cables plugged into the active and passive sockets killed tone and volume, as soon as one of the jacks was unplugged amp was fine.

[quote name='Stylon Pilson' post='486777' date='May 13 2009, 11:42 AM']I understand this, but it still seems like a very convoluted way to implement instrument switching, which is a problem that should surely be solvable, given how many millions of bass players have done it before you. I suppose it also gives you the benefit that you have your spare head already plugged in and switched on in case you need it, but how often will this be an issue?

S.P.[/quote]

Seems a simple solution to me - basses plugged into 2 heads connected to my cabs kick of a switch and away you go! I have a solution which involves and AB switch for my basses and pulling plugs on mine and the singers when he plays, just not ideal.

You're right it's probably a non issue, the only advantage is ease and knowing that your spare amp is working when it's actually needed. It could be a case of belt, braces, string and another belt possibly!!!!

Edited by farmer61
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Seems a lot easier to use an A/B switch on the instruments and then plug that into the passive input. Just because a bass is active it doesn't mean you should use the active input on the amp, about 90% of the time the passive input is a better bet (yes, they're very badly labelled!)

Alex

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[quote name='alexclaber' post='486810' date='May 13 2009, 12:14 PM']Just because a bass is active it doesn't mean you should use the active input on the amp, about 90% of the time the passive input is a better bet (yes, they're very badly labelled!)

Alex[/quote]

Really ????? :)

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[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='486816' date='May 13 2009, 12:18 PM']is there a preamp out/power amp in? maybe use just one power amp and switch the preamps going into it, that would be fairly simple and keep switching at line level power.[/quote]

Blimey.............I don't know..........erm...............I'd need to look.........but I'm a bit confused!

Perhaps I should join the "know your equipment" forum......all I do is turn up, plug in and play (badly)

Thanks anyway, but your advice is a lot over my head, but I will check the manual....Cheers

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[quote name='farmer61' post='486826' date='May 13 2009, 12:27 PM']Really ????? :)[/quote]

Yes, really. You only need to use the active input if your bass is so loud that it clips the passive input - usually it does explain this in the manual but as no-one ever reads manuals why not label it 'padded input' or something along those lines?

Alex

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[quote name='alexclaber' post='486852' date='May 13 2009, 12:46 PM']Yes, really. You only need to use the active input if your bass is so loud that it clips the passive input - usually it does explain this in the manual but as no-one ever reads manuals why not label it 'padded input' or something along those lines?

Alex[/quote]

A lot of bass players wouldn't understand what "padded input" means - even though that's all it is! -10db padded input usually.

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[quote name='alexclaber' post='486852' date='May 13 2009, 12:46 PM']Yes, really. You only need to use the active input if your bass is so loud that it clips the passive input - usually it does explain this in the manual but as no-one ever reads manuals why not label it 'padded input' or something along those lines?

Alex[/quote]

Blimey that might be a result, I'll try it at the weekend........Thanks

When you we're referring to Padded Input I thought you meant the manual as opposed to the input!!

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[quote name='The Funk' post='486859' date='May 13 2009, 12:53 PM']A lot of bass players wouldn't understand what "padded input" means - even though that's all it is! -10db padded input usually.[/quote]

My first bass amp had the inputs labelled high and low. I always plugged my passive bass into the low one thinking it was the one for low level inputs. Turned out it was referring to gain and impedance, not signal level. Only realised when jamming with a friend who had a Stingray which was insanely loud in the high input when I was in the low. Swapped round and enlightenment ensued.

Nowadays I'd lean towards just having one input and a pad switch - or designing a preamp with so much headroom that you don't need a pad at all.

There really is a lot of confusing terminology in the bass world, as my wife pointed out when I said (in reference to a Larry Graham youtube moment) "he's such a righteous slapper, look how he hard he spanks it".

Alex

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[quote name='alexclaber' post='486896' date='May 13 2009, 01:23 PM']Nowadays I'd lean towards just having one input and a pad switch - or designing a preamp with so much headroom that you don't need a pad at all.[/quote]

Agreed!

[quote name='alexclaber' post='486896' date='May 13 2009, 01:23 PM']There really is a lot of confusing terminology in the bass world, as my wife pointed out when I said (in reference to a Larry Graham youtube moment) "he's such a righteous slapper, look how he hard he spanks it".[/quote]

Hah, so true!

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While many of the suggestions above seem perfect... and I apologise if I have missed a point here... but it seems your reason for doing this is to preserve the amp/instrument/cables from popping etc from plugging in and out, rather than for ease of having the instrument already plugged in and ready to grab?

If this is the case, could you not just fork out £20 odd on a Planet Waves Circuit Breaker cable... designed purely to avoid said issues!? :-)

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I'm saving up for a second Orange AD200B,

TBONE it might be called?! i can't remember...

I posted about on a thread i made "Active Passive input on AD200B" Find that... you'll find what i was on about...

3 different ones... VV - 2 valve heads, VS valve and solid stage head, SS 2 solid state heads.

Cost a bit though!

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I aint, but i love my AD200B, I love the clean tone I'm getting at the moment and i have wet dreams about the distortion i can get from it... Just impossible to go from clean to distortion unless i pay someone to mess with the master and gain knobs when i give the nod...

I'm using a T-Rex Moller at the moment, it pretty much sounds like my Orange cranked up. Only problem is (though it has a mix knob) i can't get the amount of distortion i want and keep all my bass signal. I have just got T-Rex to send me the BassJuice that i get to try tomorrow :-) Hopefully that will do the trick... Until i can afford my second Orange of course! And one of radial's ToneBones to join the heads to the cabs!

Gotter set big targets or i'd still be goin through my little squire practice guitar amp!

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