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alexclaber

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Everything posted by alexclaber

  1. The ranting wasn't why. If you'd done this six months ago I'd have told you to keep waiting. But if you'd emailed this week you'd have had this response. Last week I'd have probably said give us a few more weeks. Things change, manufacturing isn't easy!
  2. We have this sorted now. Bring them down whenever you want, as long as it's during the working week.
  3. Geoff, that's exactly what I got (plus frets!) With two small children at home I was a bit concerned about having something nice that might get destroyed. I ordered it on the 16th Jan (allegedly in stock) and it finally arrived last week, which was fairly unimpressive, especially with the various dubious excuses Thomann kept giving. Fair enough if they had to make it, that's what happens here at Barefaced! Anyway, I swapped the stock copper BEADG strings for some Ernie Ball EADCG (100-80-65-45-32) Slinkys and it sounds great. Only had it set up for a day but it works really well for my strange hybrid guitar/bass stylings. So far I've been playing some Disney classics, modern pop and '90s indie and grunge on it. I do like playing chords!
  4. Unless you downgrade to a tiny and inefficient cab it's not going to make THAT much difference. Yes, the Four10 is a loud cab but if you're too loud on the first click of the master volume then you'll still have no way to finely adjust your volume to sit appropriately in the mix. Could the amp be faulty? This is a weird problem to have, literally never heard of it from anyone!
  5. Got it in one! When we were working on the 12XN Gen 3 models we also looked at replacing the '69er and Super Fifteen with some improved versions (using the same drivers) which we planned to called the Retro610 and Retro215. But then we ended up developing our 10CR driver which meant the new Six10 could also do the job of the 2x15" in terms of huge output in the lows (which the previous '69er wasn't so good at). Since 2008 we've made the following bass cabs (grouped in rough times they were launched): Compact, Big One, Vintage Midget, Super Twelve, Big Baby, Big Twin, Super Fifteen, Dubster '69er Super Midget, Super Compact, Super Twin, Big Baby 2, Big Twin 2 Six10, Two10 (these were briefly called the Retro Six10 and Retro Two10) One10, Eight10, Four10 The ones in bold are all still in production.
  6. I think I said one thing once to one person regarding their specific situation and now it's become gospel! Where is the facepalm smiley when you need it? ;-) A badge that looks great both ways around would be amazing - not so easy to design one though!
  7. The only way to use an amp's "full potential" is to plug it into about twenty 8x10" sized cabs at once. Any less than that and you're restricting the output due to a lack of speaker efficiency. Use such a huge rig and you'll get as much output from 5W as you'll get from 500W into a more normal sized stack.
  8. Interesting stuff! I'm not really bothered about more traditional bass tones, as it isn't going to be used in a band context and I already play a 36" scale 5-string which never sounds like a 34" bass if you use the same fingering. On that bass, with 24 frets and a full cutaway there's a lot of room for chords in BEADG tuning, hence the EADGC tuning will make similar chords possible on an acoustic bass guitar with worse high fret access.
  9. So I was thinking how it would be nice to have an acoustic bass at home. And that I'm used to playing fives nowadays but there's no chance a low B will do anything useful unplugged on something as tiny as an ABG. And I like playing chords and other upper register stuff. So what about getting a five-string ABG and tuning it high rather than low? Has anyone else done this? Main concern is the intonation because of the fixed bridge. Not planning to get anything expensive because if I do doubtless the children will break it... But something that's acoustically loud would be a good thing.
  10. You seem to be under the misconception that all Barefaced cabs sound the same! The whole concept behind our 10" cabs is that they have a more coloured and less accurate tone, you could say warmer and fatter sounding. They're certainly not "modern" or "hi-fi". That's why in terms of both tone and output our Two10 is a very good replacement for the SVT 410HE.
  11. One of those was my first bass amp! I sold it in 1998ish because it was far too quiet for gigging and since then has been used for jazz guitar (was still with the same owner when I last checked). It didn't cost me a lot and I sold it for less - think it's only about 20 (all valve) watts. Have any ever been sold on here or ebay or elsewhere whose prices you can find?
  12. [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1510229469' post='3404758']Guys - thanks, I have indeed stopped "thinking" about my new cab (which has now been bought) and I do look forward to enjoying it! And if that's your genuine wish then there is no real need to cheekily "poke bears" is there? [/quote] That is indeed my wish. But now you're done, I'd rather information wasn't left on the internet in perpetuity which may misguide people, hence my interjections to add some clarity.
  13. [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1510221954' post='3404682']Question: so [i]exactly[/i] how are you proposing that we conduct an A/B of two different cabs in a live gig environment using the same equipment, same song material and with our bands playing at exactly the same volumes with the same three or four tracks being played on repeat for an hour or so, so that we can carefully hear the nuances between the two?! It seems a bit cloud cuckoo land to me (and whilst [font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828]I do appreciate your enthusiasm for your own product, which is a [/color][/font][i]must, [/i][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif][color=#282828]I find myself on occasion face-palming when reading your posts[/color][/font]). [/quote] You don't - you're vanishing down the rabbit hole of gear lunacy. ;-) This is about gear for creating music. It isn't hi-fi equipment - it isn't about precise AB testing in a quasi but ultimately misguided scientific manner. You use the gear on a gig. You crank it up, you play loud, you see if you get excited more about the music, you feel if your band are playing better because the whole mix is sticking together better. If it's great, buy it, if not try something else. And then get on with playing music. By the way, if you did want to do AB testing in a quasi-scientific manner, I guarantee that at proper band loudness you would not have to spend hours going back and forth listening for nuances. Loudspeaker non-linearity, dispersion, transient response and so on makes much bigger differences at high SPL - you will hear a clear difference in both sound and feel immediately, especially as you move around the room. And that's my main point - yes, in your Porsche vs Ferrari to the shops test, you might notice that one has more precise steering and one has a smaller turning circle but otherwise they're both fine. But rag both down an empty bendy road so you're frequently on the limit of grip and suddenly they feel TOTALLY different. And the chance of the one you liked most at low speed being the one you like most on the ragged edge is literally 50/50. Same with any bass cabs. If you do want to wear your physicist hat, then here's when to do it: 1. Remind yourself that loudness vs power is a logarithmic thing, so the difference between 100W and 1000W is a two-fold increase in loudness (if no compression occurs). Then you won't decry those who talk about needing to play louder than you're used to - because they don't need a much more powerful rig because they want to be much louder, they just want to be a bit louder and to be a bit louder needs that much more power. 2. Remind yourself that the scientific method has shown that anecdotal evidence and observer bias are a disaster if you want to get a good appreciation of what's going on, especially when you take such a small snapshot as you have. I'm not going to start shooting down other brands but I know the feedback we get and I know what people are switching from. And if there isn't observer bias in your title then... ;-) Also, if I wasn't keen on the look of something my subconscious would definitely be keen to persuade me it doesn't sound as good - and that subconscious effect manifests itself in wine tasting, snake oil hi-fi gear, and more. The placebo effect is real! 3. Remind yourself that loudspeakers are incredibly inefficient devices and focusing on wattage is missing the point, especially at lower frequencies. There's more but I'll stop there. I hope you enjoy your new gear enough that you stop thinking about it! ;-)
  14. I probably shouldn't poke the bear whilst it's sleeping - but what I was getting at was that comparisons at shop volume (SPL) aren't terribly worthwhile and certainly not when you're splitting hairs in a sonic sense. It's like trying to choose between a Porsche and a Ferrari as your trackday car (oh, how the other half live!) and making your purchasing decision based on driving both to the shops, never exceeding 30mph. 😉
  15. [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1509711502' post='3401085'] Alex I agree with all of the above (but obviously not the first part of your response ) but I still don't think it's correct to say that a preamp has no bearing on volume? (See my subsequent response to MGBrown).[/quote] If the existing signal chain can drive the power amp to clipping, then adding another preamp will have no bearing on volume. The chance of needing an additional preamp to raise the voltage with this particularly gear is vanishingly small unless something is faulty. I do appreciate your enthusiasm but I find myself doing an awful lot of face-palming when reading your posts whilst thinking "this chap thinks he knows a lot more than he actually does. And is possibly a hi-fi enthusiast or 'audiophile'..."
  16. [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1509706073' post='3401001'] With due respect Alex, I think that's rubbish. Adding a preamp pedal to a signal chain can and does increase volume or I've gone completely deaf (which I haven't), provided the cabs can handle the extra power and there is no way that two of your BF BB2s won't be able to, right? A power amp is boosting (literally 'amplifying') whatever signal it is receiving and whether it be by replacing underpowered pots on your bass or boosting the signal via a preamp the power amp can only boost the signal that it is fed to it in the first place. [/quote] With all due respect, I don't think you understand what's going on. If the TH500 is very poorly designed then it may not be able to provide enough gain to raise the voltage of a quiet bass signal to the max voltage its power amp can put out. But it isn't poorly designed - like all Aguilar amps it is a good amp and should be able to raise the voltage of all but the most oddly quiet bass to the point that its power amp clips. And these are not quiet basses, they're good basses and they're already running through a Sadowsky outboard preamp.
  17. [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1509651581' post='3400649']I took the OP to simply mean 'lack of volume' rather than strictly 'headroom'. If he did mean 'headroom' then I take your point Alex, otherwise I stick by mine with one key word changed: [color=#282828][font=helvetica, arial, sans-serif]If the lack of [s]headroom[/s] volume is just on a few tracks that require slap, then rather than replace your (quality) amp I'd have thought that a pre-amp / EQ pedal could work i) to give you additional signal boost, and ii) brighten up your EQ a touch for slap, and you could just change settings on the pedal for the slap tracks?[/font][/color][/quote] It doesn't matter whether he meant headroom or volume - the point remains that you can't just add some signal boost in the preamp and make your rig magically louder. If that was the case we could all use tiny rigs! If his rig is lacking either headroom or volume (and turning up the master volume doesn't help) then adding boost earlier in the chain won't do anything for him.
  18. So did you borrow the Big Baby 2 demo cab to try it on some gigs?
  19. Now if you played a recorded slap line through that same rig, it would go crazy loud because the post-processing has taken the peaks under control in a good way.
  20. [quote name='mrtcat' timestamp='1509633228' post='3400475']Can't quite imagine how loud your stage must be if 2 x BB2's and a decent 500w amp aren't giving you enough just for monitoring.[/quote] The thing about slap bass is that the loudest peaks can be a huge amount louder than the average level - 20dB, 30dB etc - particularly if your pickups are set quite high relative to the line between the last fret and the saddles. Pre-Barefaced I used to clip a 2kW power amp fairly often when slapping if I didn't use any compression.
  21. [quote name='Al Krow' timestamp='1509629667' post='3400426']If the lack of headroom is just on a few tracks that require slap, then rather than replace your (quality) amp I'd have thought that a pre-amp / EQ pedal could work i) to give you additional signal boost, and ii) brighten up your EQ a touch for slap[/quote] Boosting the signal would reduce the headroom more and exacerbate the problem. The two options are an amp with more power or some outboard limiting/compression/soft clipping to control the dynamics and reduce the magnitude of the signal peaks when slapping. If the TH500 into the BB2s is clipping then the TE rig will also be clipping but in a way you prefer.
  22. [quote name='kasbridge' timestamp='1509557348' post='3399913'] Thx guys - my setup is purely for stage sound - the foh is DI from the amp which is set flat as my Sadowsky NYC provides a nice sound on its own. I know that some amps/speaker combos are just not optimal so good to hear mine is not wide of the mark - still got a 1x15-2x10-horn TE setup which blows it away though at least in terms of warmth and drive..... [/quote] Warmth and drive are both forms of colouration (i.e. distortion). We put a huge amount of work into making the Big Baby 2 have as little colouration as possible, so it gives a very accurate (and LOUD) reproduction of the tone coming out of your amp (that's created by your hands, bass, FX and amp). Warmth and drive are both great characteristics of certain bass sounds, so if you're not getting them from the BB2s you need to look at what you're putting into them. With the right gear before them they will sound just as good (or better than) then the TE setup, whilst playing significantly louder and having much more consistent tone around the venue.
  23. I appreciate you're trying to gather information to help you choose the best possible rig but what really matters is the combination of: 1. You 2a. Your bass (2b. Your FX) 3. The amp 4. The cab 5. Your bands, their rehearsals, studio sessions and gigs 6. You You might notice that 'you' is in there twice. That's because it's twice as important! It's about how you approach your playing and how you execute it AND about what you want to hear. Sometimes Ashdown heads are about as good as it gets. Sometimes they're almost the worst possible. I could be talking about the exact same head in both cases, it's just the player, the scenario and the other gear is different.
  24. [quote name='Paul S' timestamp='1507554617' post='3386288']Rather than the cab being the issue I would say perhaps it is the amp that is letting the side down?[/quote] This is what I keep saying! ;-) It's only a Puma 500...
  25. Yes but do those graphs actually represent a realistic situation? What happens when you compare one cab on the floor vs two cabs stacked on the floor, with the mic located variously at the bassist's ear position, the band mates' ears positions and the audience's too? If all you care about is the tone that you hear and don't need to fill the room with sound (and don't really want to hear your sound in the context of the room) then yes, one speaker running within its limits and pointing directly at your head (and with all room boundaries well away) will give you more even response than two. But figure in what happens in the room for everyone, especially a bassist who isn't eight inches tall (that's about how low on-axis is for a single One10), and things are very different. We low pass filter one driver on the Two10 (and continue that with its bigger siblings) because they're side by side. Vertically stacked drivers combine well in the real world - there's a reason line-array PA systems are so popular!
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