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1970 Teisco bass restoration


Rayman
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29 minutes ago, Pea Turgh said:

Damn.  Sorry to hear about the pickups.  However, if it plays nicely, it’s worth doing something with it.  Maybe see what off-the-shelf jobbies you can fit in the original covers, or maybe a couple of Artec or Retrovibe mudbuckers?

Mudbuckers…… 🤔 …… I hadn’t thought of that, nice idea, I love the sidewinder in my Epiphone Newport. Shame though, I really like the look of the original pickups. I just think getting those up and running will be way more than the bass is worth.

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21 minutes ago, kodiakblair said:

Maybe go with the Entwistle humbuckers Rapier are using in their Watson/WEM/Wilson Saffires.

 

image.thumb.png.98c243f58314c955f840cc288d8e3d43.png

Yeah, that’s an option, I need to take some measurements, I also might get a quote for the repair of the original ones, but I fear the worst.

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54 minutes ago, Rayman said:

but I fear the worst.

I wouldn't worry too much, depending on who you use it might not be that expensive to fix.

 

I was looking for a hum cancelling single coil ( twice the work + custom bobbin) with a ridiculously high wire count ( 3 times the standard length required), extra long slugs were needed to accommodate all the wire. This considerable move from standard off the shelf spec cost me just £10 more 🙂 

 

There's not a great deal can fail in pickups. Hook up wires can detach (spot of solder/ job done), slugs can lose power (recharge by passing between neodymiums), magnets can detach (glue them back on or replace).

 

Most of the UK folks charge about £30 to repair single coils, £40 - £45 for humbuckers. It's roughly the same for rewind work 👍

 

 

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4 hours ago, Rayman said:

Ok well, bad news, for me at least.

 

The pickups are not well. The output on the neck pickup is very low, around 2.2, but the bridge pickup with that stretched wire, is unresponsive.

 

My guy says the whole lot needs re wiring including opening up the pickups to see what the craic is under there, something he doesn’t want to tackle, but has suggested Matt @ House of Tone in Chester for the work. Also…. is it worth it, spending considerable money to get it fixed….
 

Back to the drawing board.

Where are you located ?

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11 hours ago, Geek99 said:

Ok was going to suggest someone but sounds like it would be too far

I travel all over the country for work, so nowhere is out of the question, unless it’s Cornwall or Aberdeen …. Y’know.

 

So any suggestions are welcome 

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So the whole assembly has gone in to House of Tone.

 

After pulling everything apart, one pickup looks great, one needs starting again with a new bobbin and rewind. 
 

New pots etc will also be installed.

 

Yes, I know…. more money than it’s worth, but I’m all in now.

 

Matt is fully booked till January, so the next update will be in 2024.

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Nice!  When it’s done, it will be awesome.  Also not too many of them about, so that’s also a plus.

I’m concerned about the pickup in my very old Japanese bass that I decided to strip and refinish before checking out the pickup, so I may need those House of Tone details from you in the new year!

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2 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Just picked this thread up. Splendid project - I just love old basses.

 

Ref the fretboard finish - are you OK with that now?  If it still bugs you then I have a suggested way of making it look like new with minimal risk and cost.  But it looks OK in the photos :)

Word …

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9 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Just picked this thread up. Splendid project - I just love old basses.

 

Ref the fretboard finish - are you OK with that now?  If it still bugs you then I have a suggested way of making it look like new with minimal risk and cost.  But it looks OK in the photos :)

It’s satisfactory I guess in terms of the fretboard. It plays fine but looks patchy close up. I’d thought about removing the frets, lightly sanding it back and replacing the frets, but that’s a bridge too far for me.

 

The error I made was using a stripper that was way too aggressive and lifted the grain. Because the fretboard is bound, I have no clue how thick the rosewood is, so sanding isn’t something I fancy doing at all.

 

Any suggestions for how to make this thing even better are very much welcomed.

 

 

 

Edited by Rayman
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1 hour ago, Rayman said:

It’s satisfactory I guess in terms of the fretboard. It plays fine but looks patchy close up. I’d thought about removing the frets, lightly sanding it back and replacing the frets, but that’s a bridge too far for me.

You don't need to do anything as drastic as that.

 

Just use a single-edged razor blade or a Stanley knife blade as a scraper:

- Use it two-handed for best control (my right hand was taking the picture! :) )

- scrape the surface up from fret to fret moving progressively from one side to the other, repeating until you are happy with it

- use medium pressure first to scrape any finish off and then, if necessary, the wood below to scrape out any ingrained dirt, dips and dints

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Generally, the dots,whether synthetic or natural, will be cooperative to this treatment so just carry on as though they weren't there:

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And, honestly, you can't overdo it.  You would be having to do it for hours non-stop before affecting any of the fret security or strength :D

 

When it's all done, vacuum all the dust away and then add whatever your preferred finish is (I use either decent quality lemon oil or tru-oil just wiped on and buffed off)

 

Except for maple fret-boarded Fenders, where they fully gloss the fretboard, I do this ROUTINELY when I am doing a full setup on basses and guitars -.  It makes the fretboard look new and it only takes me about 15 minutes for the full fretboard.

 

But, of course, don't rush it on your first go!  :) 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Andyjr1515
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