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Finished Pics! Andyjr1515 meets his Nemesis?


Andyjr1515

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27 minutes ago, fleabag said:

Is it trick of the photo, or are those pickups slanted a tad ?

Trick of the photo.  It's a wide angle lens and I'm just at 'standing on a chair' height vertically above it.  They are properly square.

The frets on the piccolo, however, ARE supposed to be slanted :lol:     It's multiscale from 25" treble to 26" bass

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Happily, snakewood isn't generally available in big planks ;)

 

Making progress with a small baby temporarily in the house is challenging.  When she's awake, it's all hell let loose.  And in the (very) short snaps of sleep time, grandpa isn't allowed to make nasty noises in the cellar!  Still, less than a week before normality descends and major step done - full-size drawing with all join points and scale lengths, etc confirmed:

_MG_7741.thumb.JPG.e3d94579c8d3f51d8aa3dffbe4890cb8.JPG

Again, it's a wide angle lens so is a bit distorted, but I have it at the same total length as a F Jazz (46"), the horn joining at the 12th fret, the 20th fret at the lower cutaway join, the total body width 10mm narrower than a F Jazz, bridge saddles pretty much in P / J bass position.

This looks a better proportioned bass to me and the extra thickness of the Sapele/mahogany should give me plenty of leeway to fit the deeper pickup likely to be going in :)

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Well, I'm banking on MrsAndyjr1515 taking eldest daughter and tiny grand-daughter for a (pushchair) walk this afternoon - I want to use the extractor-linked thicknesser in the cellar to slim down the (now) two pieces of mahogany/Sapele - AND IT MAKES A HELL OF A LOT OF NOISE THAT SHAKES THE FOUNDATIONS 9_9

But I've made myself useful in the short spells between this morning's baby chaos.  For the bridge height/neck angle, etc I always draw everything full size nowadays.  Such stuff is absolutely critical with a set neck...and this build really does end up being a effectively a removeable set neck .

 

Basically, I draw a string line from the nut at 'normal' action above the last fret and also another line assuming the string was sitting on the frets.  From the latter line, I then mark the positions that the bridge bottom would set at, assuming the saddles are at their lowest point.  On @fleabag 's Schaller bridge, because there is an optional 3mm spacer, there are actually two possible positions.  

From these measurements, and knowing the thickness of the walnut top and the purpleheart middle splice, I can then work out whether the neck should sit on the top of the Sapele, or on top of the purpleheart above the Sapele or somewhere in between the two.

It works out that if the heel of the neck sits flat on the Sapele, with then the purpleheart and walnut surrounding the heel, then the bridge without spacer should have the strings just touching the frets with the saddles at their lowest point.  Here's my to-scale side view drawing with both the neck end and the scale saddle position marked in actual positions vs the plan view above.

_MG_7751.thumb.JPG.39bbf0768a87ce0a49ecc265dcba79bf.JPG

Should work out OK.

So I now can work out the thickness of the Sapele and hence waiting for my moment to start up the Makita and shake some foundations! :D

Edited by Andyjr1515
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Just now, fleabag said:

Oooh nice. !

So what , in the end, will be the final thickness ?

I'm presently thinking a very traditional 35mm but with loads of chambering to keep the weight down...

It's thicker than I generally do nowadays but will mean no issues with the custom pickup depth and suchlike :)

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Sweet as  :)

I know we chatted about what Aaron needed in pup cover depth, but of course, ( which i forgot ) the pickup always sits proud to some degree, of the body, so routing depth doesnt have to match pup cover depth. I'm a bit slow sometimes  :ph34r:

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Well, it took all day (6 hours of waiting for the moment and 6 1/2 minutes actually doing it) but got the opportunity to straighten up the join lines.  These are just pushed together:

_MG_7754.thumb.JPG.cf9e85d021e0bf0e64c306b9994d6d9e.JPG

And actually, I can't remember who said it, but been thinking about a join strip.  Join the two back halves with a 6mm middle strip of purpleheart?  I reckon so!

Shouldn't be as much noise involved in doing that, so should be able to cut that purpleheart strip and join it all up tomorrow... 

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