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Olympic white jazz with a difference


Geek99

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I forgot to mention - ideally you'd hang the bass up for 24 hours between painting sessions, of 2 or 3 coats with at least 30 minutes between each. If you're hanging it up in your car all credit to you, but make sure you ventilate it well before climbing in. The solvent can take weeks to vent off and will be quite strong even after several hours. I can just picture you driving home with a full mask on (?!!!)

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1 hour ago, Geek99 said:

I just tried some wirewool on one section before I left the car and it left a lovely smooth finish so I will be hand rubbing both coats (1 left to do) . Quite impressed by brushed sanding sealer's ability to fill in little holes that evaded grain filler. I'm using this (but in white). I'm hoping I can use wire wool on it all

I've got a lovely brown tort celluloid plate for it. 

Daughter found above photo on my phone and said "wow what is that?"  Buy is she ever going to be disappointed when she sees my attempt at transparent blonde. 

For better or worse, I'm doing it all in the open air here at work. Basschat's first car-built bass. Woo....🦄

The Car Boot Bass.  I like it.

When's the christening?

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51 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

The Car Boot Bass.  I like it.

When's the christening?

when I get it finished I guess, which means waiting for several warm and windless days, when I also have a  spare lunchtime 

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On 20/06/2018 at 11:32, Jimothey said:

Whack a couple of magic tree's in your car that will take the smell away 😁

I'd get on better with an old kipper hanging off of my rear view mirror.  Those air "fresheners" have a stench that really gets up my hooter.

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4 hours ago, Geek99 said:

So I had another look and there are still flaws in it. After a chat with @Norris I’m going to try and drip sanding sealer in

 

a calpol syringe seems a good tool

Or simply a fine brush to "drop fill" the flaws that need building up. (I used my wife's finest watercolour brush!) Then a decent going over with sandpaper and block to get it back to level. Rinse and repeat as required. As you are using nitrocellulouse it will sink a bit (possibly up to 30% from experience) as the solvent evaporates out

Edited by Norris
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I just dropped a blob on each spot. I’ll block sand it tomorrow at “chateau Peugeot “ and do another really thick coat at lunchtime 

hopefully next week’s fine weather will give a painting day

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It looks okay now having dropped a thick coat on

paint on wedneday weather permitting - still some finish sanding to do to get it smooth

I did a couple of test coats on spare wood to get the hang of painting in strips, sanding back between each

Edited by Geek99
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So today is the day

i did some drops yesterday into a few dinks I noticed that just need sanding. Then it’s paint time 

As I said to @Norris there comes a point when you’ve had enough 

based on my test strips there just doesn’t seem to be much paint there, and it’s not glossy 

Edited by Geek99
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  • 2 weeks later...

So I tried a transparent finish and I learned some things

 

1. Pawlownia is a lot more grainy than I thought and I wouldn’t do it again 

2. Translucent finishes are hard as it’s ridiculously easy to burn through

3. You don’t get a lot of paint in a 400ml can 

4F049657-4E86-49AE-BACA-6B1700E3D7E3.jpeg

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  • 3 weeks later...

ok, after my epic failure with translucent finish (reach for the sky... )  I am busily rubbing the paint off. Its thin, so its coming off easily. 

Why am I taking it off, you ask? Spraying a thin coat made me realise that the finish wasnt good enough and I could do better, The white paint that remains shows me where more work is needed. 

Its going to go off-white and opaque. But, its going to be thin, very thin.

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2 hours ago, Geek99 said:

ok, after my epic failure with translucent finish (reach for the sky... )  I am busily rubbing the paint off. Its thin, so its coming off easily. 

Why am I taking it off, you ask? Spraying a thin coat made me realise that the finish wasnt good enough and I could do better, The white paint that remains shows me where more work is needed. 

Its going to go off-white and opaque. But, its going to be thin, very thin.

Somehow missed your earlier post.  I think all of us have probably had to do at least one 'try, strip off, try again' moments with our finishes.  In my case, it still happens!

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4 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Somehow missed your earlier post.  I think all of us have probably had to do at least one 'try, strip off, try again' moments with our finishes.  In my case, it still happens!

I have that on nearly every build!! 🤬

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The olympic white paint has arrived.

I do not know if I should use primer, or if a layer of sanding sealer or lacquer  would do. I guess its all about using less paint because youve primed with a similar colour?  I  want the thinnest possible colour coat.

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2 hours ago, Geek99 said:

I’ve bought Olympic white car paint 

I think I need primer probably grey - does anyone know if I can mix hycote and nitro top coat ?

I'd go for White primer if your top coating it White you normally use grey if your top coating black,

I think hycote paints are acrylic and as far as I understand acrylic and cellulose don't mix but I could be wrong? 

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Yeah I noticed that aswell as I said in my previous post I might be wrong and it turns out I am 😀

But saying that on lots of other forums everybody says that you can't spray cellulose (spirit based) over acrylic (water based) as it will craze and crack?? I think the best option is try for yourself and see what happens 

Edited by Jimothey
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