Dolando Posted December 5, 2013 Share Posted December 5, 2013 (edited) I managed to get this jazz bass and I thought that this would be a great body to try my first dye finish. My plan is to do a sanded back black dye, followed by an amber/Gold dye. And depending what that looks like, I may have a brown burst around the edge. One thing I would like is natural masked binding, but I'm still experimenting on how to get a crisp line. Any tips on that? I should get the dye pretty soon, so I'll be doing some tests on some flame maple and ill post those as soon as I can. Edited August 7, 2014 by Dolando Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted December 6, 2013 Share Posted December 6, 2013 Nice wood, you can't go wrong with Warmoth The round over will make it a bit tricky, I did a back dye on a Tele I built with a lovely redwood top, but I left the edges square so that I could mask it more easily. I think some people spray a coat of sealer over the edge so that dye cannot permeate into the wood, maybe you could try that....I would advise you to use decent masking tape too, cheaper stuff can sometimes end up causing real headaches There is a valuable video on YouTube of a bloke doing a back dye on a piece of maple, I think it was a green into yellow burst Best of luck with it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 Ill have to see if I can find that. Cheers. It may be tricky on the curved body. But I'll give it a try and see what happens. I got some 3mm wide tape from amazon that's used for car body shop painters, it was about £6 and seems to stick well. I've had a go at the natural masked binding with dye using a method where you let the dye dry on the rag before applying. Here are the results. [IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/7AE81691-070E-4B4B-9775-C24DD640AC69_zpsfqa65g1f.jpg" class="ipsImage" /> It's been fairly successful, a few tiny bits of bleed but pretty good I think. My plan would be to use this teqnique over the binding, then dye the top as normal. I will be using amber dye obviously, just had some of the same dye in green to hand. The dye arrived yesterday. I've not had time to do a sunburst test but this is the gold dye with a bit of brown. I like it, but think ill have the gold in the centre and something like this around the edge. [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/2873DC1F-10AE-467E-AC78-7AA39EF9689F_zpsgpzfipvv.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/2873DC1F-10AE-467E-AC78-7AA39EF9689F_zpsgpzfipvv.jpg" class="ipsImage" />[/URL] I'm still thinking I might leave the black and just go for a normal burst. I'll decide when I do some more tests. I'm thinking I'd like a gloss finish on this one, but it's too cold for nitro, so any other ways I can achieve this? Worst case I try and do a clear nitro in a room I'm currently decorating, I'm sure my girlfriend won't mind.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubis Posted December 7, 2013 Share Posted December 7, 2013 Here's a link to the video [url="http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/how-to-create-a-sunburst-finish.aspx"]http://www.finewoodworking.com/how-to/video/how-to-create-a-sunburst-finish.aspx[/url] I did a finish on a walnut build and after a disappointing try out with tru oil I opted for Rustins Plastic coat after seeing this one on the uk guitar builders site [url="http://www.simnettguitars.com/home/archives/projects/redwood"]http://www.simnettguitars.com/home/archives/projects/redwood[/url] it's quite easy to get a good finish, it can be brushed on and then flattened and polished with their burnishing cream, quite tough too, similar product to their floor coating Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted December 7, 2013 Author Share Posted December 7, 2013 Ah yea, i have watched that actually. Some useful tips. And I'll look into that. I've done a couple with tru oil now, and I got some good results. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/189801-warmoth-jazz-5-swamp-ashzebra-wood-top-finished/page__st__60 I fancied a gloss finish on this one. I'll look into that. I'm possibly thinking too far ahead though. Not even done the dye yet. Haha The next phase of tests should make me decide what I direction I want to go in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 Its done! Not exactly what i planned from the start, I decided to not do the sanded back black. After i did a test i came up with a nice tobacco sunburst kind of burst. Here are the pics! [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/73D39320-6340-4ED0-9EEE-5101EA83170D_zpsiywgo8ui.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/73D39320-6340-4ED0-9EEE-5101EA83170D_zpsiywgo8ui.jpg" class="ipsImage" />[/URL] [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/1BF133A8-E532-40A0-AA28-2DBA3F680D9B_zps4d0hd8wy.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/1BF133A8-E532-40A0-AA28-2DBA3F680D9B_zps4d0hd8wy.jpg" class="ipsImage" />[/URL] [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/E5889DF7-4286-4780-8419-78A6C2987842_zpsigqp8k62.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/E5889DF7-4286-4780-8419-78A6C2987842_zpsigqp8k62.jpg" class="ipsImage" />[/URL] [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/580D4501-C16F-4046-90DA-B387B1D49A8B_zpssxicykek.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/580D4501-C16F-4046-90DA-B387B1D49A8B_zpssxicykek.jpg" class="ipsImage" />[/URL] The natural masked binding has actually come out really well. The worst bleed i had was where the tape goes round the horns, the curve was too sharp and the tape had a slight fold. But, for a first effort i think its come out really well. [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/3C484383-D9D4-4DD2-B79B-302C2533FDAB_zps8gpjfyw8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/3C484383-D9D4-4DD2-B79B-302C2533FDAB_zps8gpjfyw8.jpg" class="ipsImage" />[/URL] [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/504B62B9-7415-4F75-ADDB-2DD63E352AA7_zpstrlltamk.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/504B62B9-7415-4F75-ADDB-2DD63E352AA7_zpstrlltamk.jpg" class="ipsImage" />[/URL] I might try neaten this up with a bit of masking tape and some careful sanding. Any techniques I may not have thought of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 That looks really nice, it'll come alive with a lacquer on it As Rubis said rusting plastic coating is really very good!! easy to do and polishes up like glass easily, quick drying (only 1 week before buffing). Dont be put of by the "Plastic" in the name it doesnt look or feel at all plasticy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted December 10, 2013 Author Share Posted December 10, 2013 Thanks, I can't wait to get it lacquered! That plastic coating does look very tasty, I think I'll have a go with that. It comes in different sizes, so how far does it go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted December 10, 2013 Share Posted December 10, 2013 (edited) I think I got a 1ltr kit (it was a while ago) and it's plenty to do 2 - 3 bodies so pretty cheap The only problem with it is that you MUST follow the instructions on time between coats else it's ruined and once done and dried you cant recoat it (as far as I know) as once it cures new coats will react and ripple badly. So you've gotta make sure you've got enough on not to rub through, it's easy you just put plenty of coats on over a couple of days, wait a week then its all done... Edited December 10, 2013 by nugget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 Great, ill make sure I follow the instructions. Is that there's a small window when you have to do another coat, or just that it can't cure between coats? I've ordered a litre so I definitely won't run out and have to order more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted December 11, 2013 Share Posted December 11, 2013 I saved the text below from a forum somewhere on the net. Some guy contacted Rustins help line after having a few problems with reaction between coats and this is the reply he got from them, turns out the instructions on the bottles are not quite correct!! Leave longer between coats. When I used it I did coats every 3 hrs with no rubbing down between coats, left it over night rubbed down very lightly and continued more coats every 3 hrs the following day. That was plenty enough for a good build-up and no risk of rubbing through Bottom line is leave it between 3-4 hours and 1 day between coats and you'll be fine. TOP TIP - Use a good quality bush if you're brushing it on, even homebase and b&q stock lacquer brushes 1. ONLY use the directions for the mixing formula (4 parts coating to 1 part activator, and health and safety advice) 2. Leave each coat as long as possiable bbefore rubbing down and applying the next coat, he recommended 3 ~ 4 hours, the reason for this is that the surface will harden very quickly however the underneath will remain soluable for approx 2 hour and can be reactivated by another coat but the surface will not. Thus leading to wrinkling, or a pitted finish. 3. Inital rubbing down should be done using 600 grit wet and dry followed by 0000 wire wool to apply a key for the next coat, only start to progress to a finer grit when you are ready to apply the final coat. 4. Try to avoid using it on a product that has been assembled using PVA or water based glue, as the coating can sometimes react against the pva glue and cause you problems later on. He said the best glue to use is Polymite (formally known as Cascimite) or any resin based gue. 5. He also stated that the critic phase is NOT reasched untill at least two days after the final coat and that he had used the product over the space of a week on the same projects a number of times and NEVER reached the critic phase. When I told him that this is NOT what the instructions for use say he said< quote [i]"I don't know who wrote them but they are incorrect"[/i] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted December 11, 2013 Author Share Posted December 11, 2013 That's perfect! Seems easy enough! I read somewhere that you only need 2 or 3 coats, how many did you apply? And how did the wrong instructions end up on the bottle!? That's madness! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted December 15, 2013 Author Share Posted December 15, 2013 (edited) I can't seem to find a reasonably priced lacquer brush anywhere. They're either dirt cheap off eBay or £30, I was thinking of something in the middle somewhere. I'm not even sure what size brush I'd need for a guitar. Would 25mm be big enough? Need a bit of help on this. Edited December 15, 2013 by Dolando Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nugget Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 I'm no expert on it, did 2 basses last year both turned out great.. but here's my take on it I did probably 5 coats a day for 2 days sanding back at start of 2nd day so about 10 coats - I only did that many as once its cured you cant add more and I was a bit paranoid about rubbing through so I put a bit more on than needed, certainly didnt look thick with 10 coats on when rubbed flat B&Q do Harris 'paint and varnish' (I think) brushes for about £5, these are fine as the RPC flows out almost perfectly after 10-15 mins so you cant see any brush marks bit like tekaloid paint if you've ever used that. Just make sure you dont get any runs or drips as it is very thin so many thin coats and dont get tempted to put thick coats on. Like I say I'm no expert on this stuff so I might be wrrong...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigwan Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 That looks beautiful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted December 16, 2013 Author Share Posted December 16, 2013 No problem. I'm just trying to get any advice on it before I start, so your help is much appreciated, thanks nugget. [quote name='Bigwan' timestamp='1387228153' post='2309696'] That looks beautiful! [/quote] And thank you Bigwan, I'm really chuffed with how it turned out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Been applying Rustins plastic coating the last couple of days, I'm onto coat number 6. After coat 4 i flat sanded the hole thing with 400 grit sandpaper. First time using this, so far so good. Heres my makeshift drying room.... [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/95112C72-104C-4D6A-A789-744F3BF3F9BA_zpsfsy9cn5q.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/95112C72-104C-4D6A-A789-744F3BF3F9BA_zpsfsy9cn5q.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Thought id better upload a couple of close ups of the actual body. [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/A759A927-3EDC-4CAA-8D70-D4F4CA4CBB08_zpshhxolhhv.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/A759A927-3EDC-4CAA-8D70-D4F4CA4CBB08_zpshhxolhhv.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s917.photobucket.com/user/DolanCustomGuitars/media/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/F955C856-F36A-4398-997F-0CE3085F84F3_zps2r0uu2vy.jpg.html][IMG]http://i917.photobucket.com/albums/ad17/DolanCustomGuitars/Flame%20Maple%20Jazz/F955C856-F36A-4398-997F-0CE3085F84F3_zps2r0uu2vy.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 (edited) Update! I've commissioned Alpher Instruments to make me Pau Ferro neck with a Pau Ferro fingerboard! Cant wait to get it! Picture below of actual wood that will be used for the neck. Edited January 18, 2014 by Dolando Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 This is the neck being made for it by Alpher Instruments. it will have an ebony fingerboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roland Rock Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 How come the choice of fingerboard changed from pau ferro to ebony? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dolando Posted March 10, 2014 Author Share Posted March 10, 2014 The pau Ferro looked a little too close to the body colour and didn't quite look right, so was more looks than tone. I like the sound and feel of ebony as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CHRISDABASS Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Hey Just thought i'd add these more recent photos [URL=http://s169.photobucket.com/user/chrisdabass/media/940E0CBD-26A3-4B5D-8133-EA6785C28ACE_zpspujxpfbz.jpg.html][IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/940E0CBD-26A3-4B5D-8133-EA6785C28ACE_zpspujxpfbz.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s169.photobucket.com/user/chrisdabass/media/FFE27DC0-501F-4E45-BE99-EE3F9B314956_zpsontvhkab.jpg.html][IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/FFE27DC0-501F-4E45-BE99-EE3F9B314956_zpsontvhkab.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s169.photobucket.com/user/chrisdabass/media/010076FC-1B2E-44B3-BA63-F9869556592E_zpsjqrkepei.jpg.html][IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/010076FC-1B2E-44B3-BA63-F9869556592E_zpsjqrkepei.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s169.photobucket.com/user/chrisdabass/media/6247D494-E973-4B17-963A-81933C2C3D87_zpshwkzsq4d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u227/chrisdabass/6247D494-E973-4B17-963A-81933C2C3D87_zpshwkzsq4d.jpg[/IMG][/URL] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Myke Posted May 10, 2014 Share Posted May 10, 2014 Oh my! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted May 11, 2014 Share Posted May 11, 2014 This is looking a really nice build! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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