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Just bought a used warwick corvette passive.


Geek99
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I found an old basschat thread on Google - apparently Maplin do a Neutrik model for only £3 so I'll just replace it.
Code is N39GB - WD want about £12.


Is there anyway I can repair the coloured oil finish ? Its a bit tired.

Anyone got any guidance on the pots ? I'm not entirely sure how much cutout is actually down to the jack being rubbish. Am I okay to shoot them full of contact cleaner ? IS there any iddue with doing this to the blend pot ? that has a mini circuit board on it but I'm not sure what the circuit board does.

thanks to everyone who has helped so far

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[IMG]http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/geek99/5786FCB3-439E-4E16-9E1C-CE8EEABAC72F-2075-000003CD32330B4B_zps33ce8ac9.jpg[/IMG]

It's an 00 model - October 2000
[IMG]http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o600/geek99/C204CB38-E1E5-400E-A3D0-C6FBD65F2951-2075-000003CD2AEC8B0F_zps60e32d30.jpg[/IMG]

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Ok seems to be the lead - tried a different cheapie one and it doesn't cut out.

Took the strings off last night and the nut popped off, it's plastic and adjustable. Do they always just drop out ?

There are two small pieces of plastic that came out too - black and L shaped but wide. I'd guess at 5mm x 3mm - does anyone know what they are and where they fit ? They look like L shaped shims

Bass cleaned up nicely but frets need a polish and new strings

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Hi Simon,
If you just get dark wax and use that on the blonde body you'll get the same effect that you would expect from using black shoe polish on a pair of light colour shoes.

What you need to do is get hold of a dark wood oil. You won't find it in a hardware store. Try contacting osmouk.com. They specialise in these oils. You can try jist applying it to the body as it is and you may get a good result. If not you may need to strip the bass down and wash the body with white spirit to get the old oil out of the grain. Sand the body down with 350, or finer paper, then apply the oil.

Apply the oil with a soft cloth. When you're finished, wash the cloth with water and leave it out to dry before you dispose of it. If you don't it may self combust and burn the place down. So its worth doing right. ;)

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Think they are visible on the nut edges here
Google warwick just a nut 3 5 string

[url="http://images.thomann.de/pics/prod/187282.jpg"]http://images.thoman...prod/187282.jpg[/url]

Are the nuts supposed to ping out ? Base plate seems solid but adjustable unit just falls out


EDIT Think I figured it - the littel tabs are the retaining clips and must have snapped?



Thanks Mr G btw
You can see the colour in teh second pic above - its not really blonde as such.


I've cleaned the findgerboard and lemon oiled it, and cleaned the body and nek with Dettox and then polished it with pledge and its looking not too shabby for a 14 year old bass.
Just bought a metal fret mask on Evilbay so I can polish the frets.

Edited by Geek99
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Hey Geek,

Welcome to the broken Just a Nut 2 club!

The little wings break all the time! They are not essential and with the price of a replacement just a nut most people just leave it as is.

The nut will fall off normally when you take the strings off, you just slot it back in.

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[quote name='Geek99' timestamp='1383905380' post='2270552']

....I've cleaned the findgerboard and lemon oiled it, and cleaned the body and nek with Dettox and then polished it with pledge and its looking not too shabby for a 14 year old bass.....
[/quote]

[size=6][b]NOOOoo[/b]ooooo!!!!!!!!!!!! Don't EVER use pledge on anything wood!![/size]

[size=4]Pledge is the work of the devil. If you ever want to do anything with the wood it'll take ages of hard work to get rid of Pledge.[/size]
Pledge seals the wood against oil and beeswax. It coats the wood with a sticky coat that causes the wood to attract dirt and grime.

On lacquered surfaces if you ever want to re-spray it, simply sanding wont get rid of Pledges magical way of resisting lacquer or paint from sticking to the surface. Sanding simply contaminates the sandpaper and the Pledge stays on the surface. To re-spray a Pledged surface the only way is strip the surface with stripper of a heat-gun. At least yours it oil.

[size=4]Good luck.[/size]

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You've had your questions re. the nut answered (that model 'always' does it), as well as the jack socket (yes, they are pants and you need to install a good quality replacement; Switchcraft/Neutik etc.). As for the finish; if it is 'coloured' you don't wax (the wax can't penetrate through the finish so it is a waste) and I realise that Grangur is screaming/highlighting his views re. pledge but your bass isn't a 'natural' wax finish and the pledge should polish off like it would any other non-porous surface.

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No need to apologise. :D[size=4] [/size]

[size=4]What does 'Pledge' actually do that is so wrong? [/size]

[size=4]Purely out of interest because I don't use furniture polish on any of my instruments [/size] (though I may have done on my Hondo Ric/Ibanez Jazz many moons ago)[size=4] BUT I do know several people who have happily polished their guitars and basses for donkey's years (I've been playing 34 years and some of these people have owned guitars longer than me) with furniture polish and their pride and joy is still shining and playing as if nothing were the matter... what physical manifestation of the devil's work is actually visible when you polish your instrument? :huh:[/size]

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Nothing but good will meant from me too.

All spray polishes put a sticky residue on the wood. Once it's applied it clogs the wood grain and leaves a sticky residue. So from the time of applying the stickiness attracts dirt and makes the finish dirty. Also, as the grain is clogged it prevents oil from being soaked into the wood, so you can find the wood gets a look of being dry and "thirsty" but the oil wont penetrate.

Oiled wood mostly gets the "thirsty" look from being exposed to strong daylight and heat, so admittedly this hopefully wont be a major problem for a bass. But it can happen. When this happens, an easily obtained oil for this is "boiled linseed oil" or "Danish oil". Boiled linseed is the one mostly used for all the oiled oak furniture you see in the shops. It will make the wood a honey colour, but it's good for keeping moisture out of any unfinished/unsealed wood.

Back to the question: If you apply spray polish to any wood that is lacquered it will, as above, become sticky and attract dirt, but if you ever want to re-lacquer or spray-paint the wood, the polish will resist the lacquer and it wont stick. If you rub the finish down with sandpaper, the polish gets into the grain of the sandpaper and simply gets moved about and moves down through the lacquer to the wood itself.So if you have to do this you need to keep changing the sand paper. In any case, rather than simply start sanding it would be better to try to wash the spray polish off. For this you can try white spirit. I'm not too certain. I'd need to ask a friend.

I've worked in wood finishing for 3-4 years in my career and so I know of the problem, but luckily I never had to refinish anything that had been so affected, so I know of the problem, but not so much the cure. I know the guys I worked for would prefer to turn a job away than deal with getting rid of spray polish.

The answer for Simon (Geek99) is probably, to use white spirit as a first wash off, then use oil and hope it's not too bad. I doubt he's going to be spraying it with paint or lacquer, so it's not the end of the world.

cheers

Richard

Edited by Grangur
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I can't and won't refute what you've said about using furniture polish as I only have personal experience to act upon but to add £0.02 to the mix...

The bass in question is sealed and lacquered (if it is a W finish and has a colour it must be) as such no polish can clog the wood grain etc. As to the fact that polish residue will attract dirt... blimey have you seen what the official W wax is like! It always leaves a residue which tends to get stickier with playing (friction/heat) and as such is an absolute dirt magnet. Which leaves the dilemma of polish leaving a residue that makes refinishing problematic. I personally know 3 or 4 people who 'professionally' (i.e. their living or main part of, is made from it) finish/refinish instruments and they all use white spirits to wipe down instruments between sanding and applications, so residues are wiped off as a matter of course and I'd have thought that the polishes and paints (never mind the wood dust) clogs the glass/sandpaper any way... added to which a thin film or residue left by polish would hardly clog the first sanding process which can be (depending on the thickness of lacquer/paint) quite coarse.

Aside from that I wonder how many instruments that might get polished with 'Pledge' will actually end up being refinished... it must be a very small percentage.

As I say, not wishing to 'argue' but it seems quite a strong reaction to using a product which to most people will never have any negative impact.

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