Is scale length important to you?

[Dingus]

[quote name='molan' timestamp='1352073709' post='1858539']
I've spent quite a long time now with my Ritter which is a 33.3" scale. It doesn't immediately feel hugely different to my 34" Fenders or Foderas but after a while playing I find I'm definitely more comfortable on the Ritter.

I use to play mosty 35" 5'ers and got on with them fine but fairly convinced that this 33.3" is the best for me.

I notice far more of a difference in stretching and hand cramping on a small bodied bass with a headstock strap button that falls closer to the body than a 'regular' bass.
[/quote]

+1 on this. I'm not fortunate enough to own a 33.3 inch scale Ritter, but it's a scale lenghth that makes a lot more sense for a five string than 35 inches, that's for sure. The wider neck ect. of a five means that 35 inch scale is apt to make it even more unwieldy than it already is. The problem is that so far as I know, it requires the skill of a high quality ( and therefore high cost ) instrument maker such as Ritter of Fodera to make a bass with a low B that sounds good with a shorter scale lenghth. A slightly shorter scale length is nice for a four string , too. Personally, I won't look at any bass with a 35 inch scale, regardless of what it is . The extra tension and bigger stretch make it a pain in the arse I can do without.

Edited November 5, 2012 by Dingus

[BassTractor]

[quote name='Mikey R' timestamp='1352112912' post='1858750']
I just dont get them - surely they only affect any notes played open string?

As I understand it, they are used on a guitar to make the B a little sharper which makes it better harmonically related to the other strings when playing common open chords - as bassists, we just dont have that problem. Am I missing something?
[/quote]

First I must repeat I haven't heard the difference.

That said, on a bass I imagine it's hardly for the open B-string, but for strings fretted at the first few frets. The higher the nut, the more tension you create in the string when fretting close to the nut, and the tone frequency goes up.
As a result, for perfec intonation, you'd need most compensation on the thinnest string, and least on the thickest.

I also seem to remember thinner strings are more prone to this effect in themselves, but please correct me if I'm wrong.


If memory serves the theoretical picture is troubled somewhat by string stiffness depending on construction and thickness, in such a way that some strings would not reverberate in their entire length.
I think they do not reduce the compensation of nuts for those aspects, and why should they. It'd only interest geeks, and for no practical reason at all, I believe.


best,
bert

Edited November 5, 2012 by BassTractor

[alyctes]

I've a Peavey Cirrus BXP which is 35". I don't play it much, but I notice no difference from 34" basses.

[Count Bassy]

[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1352144289' post='1859373']
First I must repeat I haven't heard the difference.

That said, on a bass I imagine it's hardly for the open B-string, but for strings fretted at the first few frets. The higher the nut, the more tension you create in the string when fretting close to the nut, and the tone frequency goes up.
As a result, for perfec intonation, you'd need most compensation on the thinnest string, and least on the thickest.

I also seem to remember thinner strings are more prone to this effect in themselves, but please correct me if I'm wrong.


If memory serves the theoretical picture is troubled somewhat by string stiffness depending on construction and thickness, in such a way that some strings would not reverberate in their entire length.
I think they do not reduce the compensation of nuts for those aspects, and why should they. It'd only interest geeks, and for no practical reason at all, I believe.


best,
bert
[/quote]


I played around with a temporary compensated nut, basically being a bit of bent wire slid under the strings thus acting as an angled zero fret.

Got to say that the overall effect was impressive. Set up the nut first, based on intonation over the first few frets, then set up the bridge intonation based on the normal harmonic/12th fret thing. - Intonation all up the neck was notably improved.

Tried it on a different bass and it had less effect, though still some (perhaps the nut was cut lower?)

Didn't proceed with it as a permanent thing because I didn't fancy making permanent mods to the bass, and ideally it would need to be adjustable for different strings/gauges etc. - but as a principle then it seems great.

[Kongo]

If you really can't feel the difference, place your fingers on the 1st four frets, one finger per fret, and hold them there.
Do this on both 34" and 35" scale, THEN you'll notice the difference. :-P

In all honesty I'd like to not use 35" scale when it comes to technicality. It does require more stretching but you don't notice if you keep to them and practise a lot. That being said, 34" scale is long enough (just right when I think about it) but sonically never sounds as tight to me.
Plus, the bass models I like all come in 35" scale, go figure.

Strings are also a LOT easier to buy for 34" scale! Less restriction on gauge too.

[Spoombung]

I think 34" is at the very limit of most people's hands and is honestly pushing it a bit. Anything bigger is absurd and anything smaller is welcome.