EBS_freak

[quote name='dood' post='117306' date='Jan 9 2008, 06:45 PM']I'd go out and buy a brand new one if the cheeky li'l beggars weren't charging stella prices for their gear. (In comparison to other preamps in the same catagory)[/quote]

They don't do the classic preamp anymore hence why the prices are high as there are not many about. The Microbass II kinda killed it. I agree though, the Gallery's price for that pre is pretty rediculous!

[quote name='dood' post='117192' date='Jan 9 2008, 05:25 PM']Is it because all their previous gear was so ghastly overpriced that with all the profit they have made, they can finally afford to seel an amp at a reasonable price??? lol lol lol[/quote]

We are talking pounds...

...and dood is just miffed cos he missed out on flanker's preamp...

** PM Sent ** Post removed **

Dood.

For those who are interested in the new 450W head from EBS, I have been speaking to the men in the know and I can confirm this monster will be available imminently for a price that lies between £800 and £900 (probably bang in the middle)

Cracking price or what?

[quote name='minty fresh death' post='116741' date='Jan 9 2008, 03:36 AM']gawd what are you doing to that dj5 russ![/quote]

Told you dude, it's having an electrics overhaul! I've got my electrics guru on it... we have got the preamp installed on a Squire at the moment and it's smoking the DJ5 at the moment in terms of sound... just a shame the Squire plays like a bit of a dog.

The DJ5 - It's a really tasty bit of kit by the way!

I don't suppose you know the model number of the pickups do you?

PS - thanks for sorting out the petrol... that could have been a very eventful evening!

[url="http://www.petersontuners.com/index.cfm?ca...y=85&sub=59"]http://www.petersontuners.com/index.cfm?ca...y=85&sub=59[/url]
[url="http://www.petersontuners.com/index.cfm?ca...y=14&sub=90"]http://www.petersontuners.com/index.cfm?ca...y=14&sub=90[/url]
[url="http://www.petersontuners.com/index.cfm?ca...y=85&sub=58"]http://www.petersontuners.com/index.cfm?ca...y=85&sub=58[/url]

I sent these links to Ped for explaining the "sweetned" tunings...

Anyway, I've had this tuner for a good few days and done a couple of gigs with it now. I have to say, I believe this is one of the best bits of gear ever. It's great because not only is the tuning process dead simple but because people are commenting on the "screensaver" - I think I am going to have to write random messages for each gig... well, until I get bored anyway.

Catch up man! Only jokin'! She's been causing a stir for a while now! Awesome player.

[quote name='jono b' post='116712' date='Jan 9 2008, 01:04 AM']I found this on ebay. [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ashdown-400w-Bass-Magnifier-Head-with-300w-Ashdown-Cab_W0QQitemZ250203097258QQihZ015QQcategoryZ58719QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"]Ashdown amp[/url] It's an Ashdown Bass Magnifier according to the auction (and the front of the amp), but it has a control panel akin to that of a ABM. Oh, hold on a second. Everything's just come together. Does ABM = Ashdown Bass Magnifier? It's not one of the Mag heads that's fo' sho'.[/quote]

You're not wrong.

[quote name='thumb4bob' post='116715' date='Jan 9 2008, 01:10 AM']isnt this in the wrong section??[/quote]

Probably.

[quote name='99ster' post='115665' date='Jan 7 2008, 06:32 PM']A guitarist friend had terrible trouble with this - every electric he played would start making cracking sounds after playing for a few minutes.
It was driving him nuts - so I suggested covering the back of the pickguards completely with self-adhesive backed copper foil shielding - it fixed it for good for him. Definitely worth trying on your Jazz.[/quote]

Just for people who may be experiencing similar problems. I put self-adhesive backed aluminium foil shielding (courtesty of a most generous basschatter) on the back of the plate - it looks to be a good fix! The rest of the instrument is shielded so that's good. Now I just have to rid the bass of it's single coils and get some of the dual coil beasties in there. Should be good to get an uber quiet, static free jazz!

Thanks to all!

Not quite sure where I should put these so I have put them here for now and I'm sure the mods can move it to where they see fit...

Bit of a feeler at the moment!

I've got a couple of standard Nordstand single coils for a 5 string J bass.

What sort of money are you guys willing to give me to take them off my hands??

[quote name='Kaiu' post='116124' date='Jan 8 2008, 11:28 AM']Hey guys,

I am in the process of rackmounting all my gear. I have an axess-electronics midi pedal and control function switcher (http://www.axess-electronics.com/sc/CFX4-Control-Function-Switcher-p-16136.html), which essentially operates four latching inputs (not sure of the technical language!). eg the tuning mute on my amp.

At the moment it controls my amp mute, and my Aguilar agro which is engaged by a latching footswitch.

Anyway, I was wondering if it was possible to remove the latching footswitch on my little big muff and Install a latching jack socket? so that the muff can be operated from a distance? if you get my drift!

If anyone has a better way of rackmounting a single pedal let me know, given that I already own a midi device that can control four latching devices.

I apologise for my lack of technical language!

ed[/quote]

Hi there, I can confirm by replacing the latching footswitch on the big muff and replacing it with a socket will work. Just run a standard guitar jack to jack from the newly installed socket on the big muff and run that to your CFX4. Remember to get the polarity right otherwise your may end up with an off pedal when the MIDI logic says that it is on. If you get it wrong, just switch the connectors on the socket within the Big Muff.

As an additional note, I have had success with controlling amps with those logical footswitches (e.g. footswitches with clever electronics gubbings in) in this manner. Just replace the switches with jacks, connect them up, and then you can control them from a switching unit such as a GCX, CFX4 etc.

Good luck... any problems, just give me a shout. As an aside thought, to prevent butchering your pedal, have you thought about getting a looper? Same theory - connect the Big Muff to the looper and then replace the switch on the looper with a socket and then connect that to your CFX4. It will do the same as before, but it means that you can remove the Big Muff from your signal path when not in use (as I seem to recall the Big Muff is not true bypass)

Strictly speaking, you should look at loopers such as the GCX, Switchblade, Axess GRX4 etc and patch the pedals connected in and out of the signal chain, but if you aren't running more than one pedal, it's probably not worth the added expense.

It's all good fun isn't it?

[quote name='BOD2' post='115534' date='Jan 7 2008, 03:40 PM']I've seen on may guitars/basses there is often some "tin foil" stuck to the back of the scratchplate around the area of the control cavity. The control pots (which are earthed) should touch this foil when they're installed. The foil is probably there for rudimentary screening purposes but it may also drain any static to earth.

Do you have any foil on the inside of your scratchplate ?[/quote]

My strats have... No foil on the inside of this jazz scratchplate I am afraid. That's the next port of call...

[quote name='Old Horse Murphy' post='115526' date='Jan 7 2008, 03:37 PM']Yeah (but this one more)[/quote]

OK... that one more...

and this one

I would go white... I think the tort looks better on p basses.

I would say that the Lakland Skylines are on par (if not a lot better than) the US Fenders. Excellent playability and I feel that they are better than most other basses out there for the money.

Seriously, if you like the necks of a Lakland, get a Lakland. You'll love it.

+1

add another to my previous (I was out buying this weekend! Hehe)

[quote name='ped' post='114819' date='Jan 6 2008, 06:00 PM']I may be up for a slice of that action ;0)

P.s what's this 'sweetening' business??[/quote]

Dude, read about temperament and pure tuning and you'll get the idea.

[quote name='Hamster' post='115156' date='Jan 7 2008, 01:07 AM']If you can't resolve what is probably a poor connection, someone posted a few weeks ago about putting one of those tumble-drier anti-static sheets in the control cavity - Worth a go I suppose?

Hamster[/quote]

The connections are fine - if I remove the scratch plate, everything clears up. I have read about two further solutions - anti-static spray on the scratch plate, or put shielding on the back of the scratchplate and connect to ground.

Hi there... does anybody have any idea how to cure a static scratchplate? My jazz has developed an annoying crackle problem - after messing around with the earth on my bass, just by chance, I found that removing the scratch plate cured the problem. I then tried to destatic the plate... which worked (I used antistatic polish) but it is slowly returning.

Anybody got any ideas?

[quote name='rumour6' post='113893' date='Jan 5 2008, 02:12 AM']Only three words.. fan ****dy tastic

Andy[/quote]

Bernie is the dogs!

[quote name='rumour6' post='113894' date='Jan 5 2008, 02:15 AM']I'm lucky enough to have a Rumour 6 Fretless, there is no better bass at any money.... they play even better than they look.

Andy[/quote]

So true.

[quote name='martthebass' post='114818' date='Jan 6 2008, 05:58 PM']Thought the DJ4 was a 34"?

The DJ5 is deffo a 35" - my poor pinky reminds me of this every time I play it.

(Also hate the white pickguard on my black sparkle DJ - it's just gotta be black!)[/quote]

Ah yeah - my mistake... must be my eyes...! Doesn't the Lakky neck look longer to everbody else?

OK, just me then

I'll get me coat...

Just look at the visible dfifference that extra inch on the scale makes...