EBS_freak

Get some fuse wire and fashion your own hook. I've never in all my years of IEMs seen that before. Have you got really small ear canals? I must say, that it looks like the unit itself is pretty small - so would suggest you have small ears, or at least small concha. If you are wondering about "concha"...

How big is the wax cleaning tool? The ACS ones for example, are bigger than the ones that are generally supplied with acrylic IEMs. My ACS wax cleaning tools won't fit into my acrylic IEMs for example.

1 - Shouldn't do. Active/Passing is typically a pad/attenuator (depending upon your preferred terminology). All it's doing is turning the incoming signal down by a predetermined amount of dB. 2 - Ish. When you turn the volume down, you are basically sending some of your signal to ground, some to the amp. Treble more readily goes to ground. Hence, turning down the volume also has the impact of turning down the treble. Active wise, depends on what the circuit is doing. So yeah, you'll be turning down the signal... but you *may* be changing the tone too. This is largely more noticeable on guitars than bass though. 3 -- yes. Depends on your bass though. If you exceed the headroom on the input, it will start to clip. If you run an active bass into a passive input and it still doesn't clip, it's all good. Some basses for example, are so hot, if you were to run it into the passive input, you may still not be able to turn down the input pot enough to stop it clipping... or you may not have enough variance in the pot between clipping and no clipping if you are right on the edge of the pots travel. Hopefully this makes sense?

@dmccombe7 - I'm not really sure what I'm being asked?

Probably a very good reason for that.

Which IEMs have you got?

The left one yes. The right one has never registered with me. The left was the original yeah?

Great move! Enjoy

I haven’t seen half of these basses before! EDIT : there's only 3 basses I could save from a pawn shop sale after theft. The OBBM stingray, nobody really knows who owns it. It's a bit of a mystery bass. Probably been stolen and parted out now. 😜

The Red Gus, the OBBM Status and the striped Gafbass are the ones that are registering for me at the moment.

If you are referring to this one... then yeah.

I was just checking out the Vigier thread where @ped posted his Vigier. I've come to know that bass pretty well due to my mispent hours on basschat... but then it got me thinking... what are the basschat iconic basses... the ones that people instantly know who's it is as soon as people post a picture? Aka, "your bass has been nicked? - that wouldn't last long in a pawn shop without being reported to the owner" thread.

If you do measure, upload a pic where every pixel is illuminated white. I’m guessing that will give you an idea of real world draw - although I’m not sure what processing can be instructed to get an idea of a Nextion under load. Hmm. Sounds like you got plenty in the bag anyway - so as you say, nothing to worry about. In fact, I wouldn’t even bother testing it... plenty within tolerance.

Ha! That's a good point though. Whats the actual rating on the Mega in terms of powering external devices...? I guess if it doesn't stop... then jobs a goodun... I guess?

Doh I’m on a slow day. Yeah forgot the Mega got onboard. Yeah - my next comment is to take into account most pedal supplies are centre negative! Anyway, I’ll leave the above for anybody looking to drop voltage and use a standard psu for a nano (or similar)

7805 regulator with a couple of caps will drop your voltage so you can run at 9v off pedal board power supply of daisy chain off stomp power supply.

Hey Stoo - how are you powering your setup? Are you doing a 9v off a pedal board and dropping it down to 5v? Ah just read back and reminded myself. You're coming off USB power. Do you use external power - or would you consider a daisy chain split off your Stomp power. Let me quickly draw you something up.

Must admit without some pointers, the Nextion can be a bit of a beast as I didn't find it immediately intuitive. And then when I'd got to grips with it - with many hours of frustration, I found this series of tutorials. Sod's law.

Yeah - you're doing the same with QLC with what I'm doing with DMXis. When I started, I was sequencing all within the Arduino... but then timing based stuff begins to get quite difficult, especially when trying to factor in multiple fades, moving heads etc... and as you probably know, arduino being procedural based, makes it quite difficult to get things to do different things at the same time... whilst keeping code manageable. You hit the nail on the head - automatic lights are pretty vomit inducing. Slow fades, black outs... even the odd retina burn is defo more classy. Rotary encoders are nice feature... the only downside, is that you are using I/O pins. Depending what you want to achieve and how often you need to achieve it... and depending how many stomp buttons and I/O you have, the Nextion is manageable. As far as Nextion tutorials are concerned, I found this guy's to be pretty comprehensive - check out InterlinkKnight on YouTube. Here's the first in the series. Work through them and you should be alright.

Those UE11s man. What a hot price. Mind you though 18s under a grand.

For anybody looking for customs - there’s an absolute killer deal going on for UE at the moment. But be quick! (quad, six and hybrid flagship)

The Nextion is great - it enables some really pretty UIs that would be otherwise be beyond the realms of the lowly arduino. The Windows software is a bit ugh... but stick with it. Once you have defined your screens and you are back into just targeting changes via the Arduino, it’s pretty slick... and certainly gives the impression that your project is more pro. The touchscreen isn’t amazing by modern standards - don’t expect the feel of a modern mobile phone... but for simple presses and the like, it’s very, very effective.

Yeah - a lot of it is for instant access so that you don’t have to keep scrolling through patterns. I’ve got a fair few lights on the go too (having said that, I’ve never got the luxury of time to set them up on most gigs). I’m offloading to DMXis to do the heavy lifting rather than programming patterns directly onto the arduino - it’s a lot simpler doing it that way rather than getting the computer out to flash a chip every time you make a change. I may revisit QLC - May be easier to cart around a Pi than a computer! Your project looks great, keep up with the development!

Strictly speaking, they should be mounted away from each other (up to 1m+) - although there are some factors that influence this. Generally, if you are using a low number of wireless channels and in your cases, the two frequencies are truly intermodulation free, you are likely to be OK. The problem of interference becomes more of an issue when your channel count goes up and close proximity of transmitters and receivers can cause issues for one another. The best thing is, is to put the two side by side and test it. If it's good, it's good.