Gamble

I'm looking to do the same thing as the OP, not affecting the tone is a big issue for me too. I do tend to think that it's unlikely to be a difference I'd notice without direct A/B comparison, but I'm looking at using 2 Ampeg preamps for my O/D and clean so I don't really want to cut corners with the switching/blending. Having the options on that Moosapotamus Paralooper might be nice if the price comes out the same as a simpler unit, but is all that clever tomfoolery going to effect the tone? Once the true bypass is switched off I mean. Banzai have a dual looper pedal that might do the trick: [url="http://www.banzaimusic.com/Banzai-Dual-True-Bypass-Box-pr-17667.html"]Banzai Dual Looper[/url] Obviously it doesn't have the level controls on the unit, but I figure you can just set that with your effects units that are in the circuit, right? Also, can anyone tell me: Could I link the loop sends straight to 2 different amps (not back to the return) and use it as an A/B/Blend box? They also do a single looper: [url="http://www.banzaimusic.com/Banzai-True-Bypass-Box-pr-17668.html"]Banzai Loop/Bypass[/url] and a looper with an A/B output: [url="http://www.banzaimusic.com/Banzai-A-B-True-Bypass-Box-pr-17666.html"]Banzai A/B Looper[/url] but correct me if I'm wrong, neither of them will blend the signal. Can anyone point me (and anyone else who's interested!) in the direction of other options for clean/loop blending and A/B blending (preferably in one unit)? I'm just trying to weigh up all the options so I only have to fork out once! So far the names I've seen are: Boss (LS2 / AB-2) Barge Concepts Xotic (X-Blender) Radial (Big Shot) Moosapotamus (Paralooper) SolidGoldFx (Parablender) Lehle (Little Lehle II / Lehle Little Dual) Banzai (Dual True-Bypass) I'm pretty sure a few of these don't blend the signal (Lehle and Boss AB-2 for example), which is primarily what I'm after so unless I'm told otherwise they're out for me. Just thought I'd put them in the list for everyone to have a look at incase they're of use to them. Cheers!

cough***low B***cough (I agree for any higher strings tho)

C'mon now Monz, you were VERY excited about that Spitfire at the Bash. You sure you can't handle the wait? Not to put you off Statii though!

A couple of reviews on Harmony Central say that the LS-2 knackers your tone and can be quite hissy, any personal experience with this? If it's only a small ammount then this might be the way for me to go aswell, although I am getting all fussy about my tone these days.....

Cheers for the preamp Rich! Good communication and everytyhing arrived as described, and in bomb-proof packaging! Many thanks!

Ritter made a bass from ridiculously old bog oak with a mammoth bone nut too, but all his basses cost about that much anyways.....

Right, sorry for the late reply but I've been stacked out this week with working lates and rehearsing (read as "desperately trying to write interesting basslines and THEN rehearse them") for the studio this weekend. I've strung up my 30"scale Gibbo copy with similar gauge (not exactly because I use Warwich red labels and as they're cheap the sizes are a little varied), left it a few days to settle and compared it to my 34" scale Ibanez. The Gibbo copy is an absolute heap, so it can't be used to compare sustain/tone/action/playability but I have had a look at how far the string is moving when played. It's pretty hard to say, but I think the string to moves further on the 30" scale. There's really not much in it, and it changes each time I pluck but I'm pretty sure there's a small difference between the 2 basses. I'll spend a bit more time comparing the 2 basses soon but I'd better get some kip soon! Cheers gents!

[quote name='SteveO' post='314866' date='Oct 26 2008, 07:23 AM']Have you measured that string yet Gamble? I thought we were quite chilled. We're just throwing ideas around to see what sticks. you wanna see what we're like when we're arguing about the folding of multidimentional space in the [i]other[/i] string theory when common sense goes right out the window. I'm quite enjoying this, I didn't realise just how much classical physics i'd forgotten [/quote] Yeah, I can see you guys are playing nice, I'm just joshing ya! I've seen all too many threads on forums kick off over the smallest disagreement or misunderstanding before so I like to play referee sometimes. I'll try and remember to bring my verniers home from work this week and give that experiment a go, I'll let you know how I get on! That EB copy is a bit oif a heap though, so it might not be entirely conclusive!

Gotcha, cheers! I knew it would be logical. ROFPMSL!

SteveO: The book is "Building Electric Guitars" by Martin Koch (hehehehehehe............ I said I've been drinking, right?) I've only got as far as the general info on bits and bobs so far and I haven't been reading it in page to page order (only got it a couple of days ago and was going to a sawmill for a scout mission today so was mostly brushing up on the woody side of things (hehehehehe....... woody)) so it might make a bit more sense when I get more stuck-in. So far it hasn't stated any dim's whatsoever for action height etc, just that longer scale would need a higher action. Check out how many brackets I'm using............... This must be why I never get to finish any of my stories when I'm down the pub! Also, someone remind me about comparing my short scale to regular scale basses - I'd forgotten about it in the time it took me to write this post!

In fairness, bridge height can be altered by a few variables (fretboard height from body, sinking the bridge into the body, etc) but I see your point. You've actually reminded me that I own a Gibson EB lookalike with a 30" scale, so once I've sobered up (it is 10 past midnight on Saturday, I mean, c'mon!!?) and I've remembered to bring my digital vernier calipers home from work (not joking, I work in QA at an engineering comapany) I'll try and find a pair of similar gauge strings and comapare the string excursion on 30" and 34" scale basses, although I'm not sure holding a steel rule up to a vibrating string will yeild very accurate results! When I say it like that it kinda puts things in perspective..... You boys need to chillllllllllll.................... Honestly tho, I really appreciate you getting involved in my query. It's shed a lot of light for me, so cheers!

[quote name='Crazykiwi' post='314775' date='Oct 25 2008, 10:26 PM']OK, fair enough. FWIW I'm deliberately a bit coy about the number I own because even at 10 I get funny looks from people if I tell them![/quote] I have 10 or 11 now (not many worth much wedge tho) and not many people get it, although I've never had a salesman say anything other than "You should buy another" on the subject. What the hell does FWIW stand for anyways? 'Scuse the n00bness please

[quote name='SteveO' post='314529' date='Oct 25 2008, 02:47 PM']I would say that when building a bass guitar with a longer scale length you should assume that the bassist will use 'normal' gauge strings, and so you should build it with a higher action than a shorter scale bass with the same 'normal' gauge strings. How much higher? I dunno. [b]probably easier to build it and see rather than spend ages messing with a calculator[/b], but i'd guess that increasing the length by 10% from 32" to 36" is gonna increase the action by 10% from 2-3mm to 2.2 - 3.3mm [/quote] Easier to build a bass than use a calculator? You should read the manual mate! Seriously though, thanks for all your input fellas! It's making an interesting read! Plenty of stuff I hadn't considered so far, good stuff!

A longer scale length will inrease string tension, therefore strings will flap about less, am I right? This is what I've always believed, but a book about guitar building that I've been reading tells me that a longer scale means the string will vibrate more and therefore needs a higher action. Now that's pretty much contradictory to how I've always thought of it, so I was wondering if anyone here can tell me definitively which is correct. I don't usually question the written word, but this book also says that a shorter scale length with give a brighter sound which I'm not sure I understand either. Any views on this are welcome so we an find a conensus, and if anyone knows for definate then all the better! Cheers guys!

I went and played paintball (my other hobby) today so that I couldn't get down the shop, and I think it's working. Looks like I'm going to take the advice of my learned friend Peted and see if it's still there in a couple of weeks and think about it in the meantime. That's actually what I said I'd do when i left the shop so I'm going to stick to it! Must be strong. Must be strong. Must be strong.

[quote name='agoulding' post='309748' date='Oct 19 2008, 11:48 AM']i think its just some delay in the recording[/quote] Sounded to me like he was just playing over a cd, he stopped but the bass on the original track kept going.

I can lay my hands on a very nice Spector USA 5 string for a very reasonable price (+ interest free credit if I want it) and I'm trying very hard to stop myself. The long and the short of it is that it's not something I've been majorly lusting after, and although it's a very reasonable price (list is something daft like £2900) it's still a lot of cash for a bass I don't necessarily need, and should probably keep the money for now. I'd be scared of getting it dinged playing with one of my bands, and the other band I'm in are currently in a bit of a slow period that I'm not sure we'll recover from. I consider myself a bit of a collector, but most of my basses are dirt cheap so it's not like there's that much cash tied up in them. I'm reminding myself that the higher frets on this Spector actually stick out from the fretboard leaving a rough edge and it comes with plastic knobs (a real petty hate of mine for high-end basses), but I've still got a horrible feeling that if it's still in the shop in about a week or 2 I'll be coming home with it. Any advice?

I spoke to Andy at Wizard a couple of weeks ago about p'ups for my Jazz 5 and he couldn't help. I'll be giving Villex a look then!

"Good evening Norfolk County Counil social club..... ARE YOU READY TO ROCK??!!" No, they were not. £130 in the kitty for recording in a fortnight tho. Playing a really uncomfortable gig actually took me back a few years and reminded me that most of the gigs I play now are actually not that bad. Gotta keep things in perspective!

In that top pic, it looks like soemone's trying to climb out of Phils monster Hartke rig!

[quote name='Herr Fixxxer' post='307908' date='Oct 16 2008, 02:36 PM']Why, why, why do I only see this today? [/quote] +1

I'm glad someone re-posted the vid (and another!) 'cos I really quite wanted to see it again. You don't see many guitards shredding who look like they're having as much fun as he is there, on making it look so easy!

[quote name='Jake_M' post='300651' date='Oct 6 2008, 05:05 PM']Right, i'll admit i was playing devil's advocate in posting this vid. I sometimes forget that an "ironic" sense of humour doesn't always come across as intended, especially when written down. Personally, i think its fair game. He was playing in a public place, the vid was posted publicly on YouTube, and this is a public discussion forum. I knew not everybody would see it the same way, believe me. However, i didn't realise the guy was actually a friend of the forum, and i wouldn't have posted it if i had, so i'm going to take the vid down forthwith. Cheers, Jake M[/quote] I don't think you need to do that Jake, I think we all know now what you meant and that you didn't intend to cause any offence. Like you said yourself, it's hard to convey the mood of a statement in a couple of lines on a forum so some of the snarlier responses probably weren't meant to be as such. I think I might have sounded a bit like I was up on my high-horse when I didn't intend to, just wanted to say my piece and defend fret-w*nkery! EVERYBODY JUST CHILL!