Bottle

Sorry to have completely missed this one snot-monster arrived on Friday and I've been reduced to laying on the sofa over the weekend blowing copious amounts of green gunge out of my nose still, managed to shift through the whole "Line of Duty" DVD boxset...... Next year, well we shall see!

I'm adding this to my calendar - will let you guys know in April if I can make it. Saturdays are usually no issue. Have a bigger car now so can fit [b]more gear[/b] into it I'll be travelling up from deepest Cambridge(shire) if anyone needs a lift. New handbuilt bass will hopefully be ready in time! Ta, Ian

I'll have to say this will be a possible/probable depending on church commitments in June I was hoping to show off my new bass [i]which is nearing completion[/i] but we shall have to wait and see Ian

Oh dear It had to happen Been bitten by the synth bug Am now the owner of a brand-new MakeNoise 0-Coast. Just plugged it into the MiniBrute for CV and Pitch and it's knarly lots of noisy goodness That is all

[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1478696121' post='3170984'] I do not have the answer to this, but now you ask, I do remember that in music college there were enough of people who could not invent new music or new sounds in their heads. I have no idea whether they were just untrained or whether they lacked some basic ability, but in general a lot of stuff can be learned - even when people think they can't learn it. As to synths and acquiring the ability to imagine a sound and build it, I think one is helped a lot by traditional subtractive synthesis and knobby hardware and [b]a lot of time[/b] playing and experimenting, consciously looking for the answer to the eternal question "why the Hull does it sound like that". The MiniBrute is a great example for this, as it has many knobs and sliders for such a tiny synth, and a relaxing lack of bewildering routing switches. Later, one can use its connectivity and get to the wilder stuff. [/quote] That was one of the reasons I opted for the MiniBrute - a lack of memory slots means I can be more creative

I've just had a further dig through all the bumf that comes in the box and I found an envelope with lots of pre-punched plastic overlays with suggested settings on. How cool is that?! Nice one, Arturia

[quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1478180224' post='3167326'] I've have major Modular synth GAS, but so far I've managed to prevent myself getting involved. A couple of years ago mate of mine said he wanted a small modular set up. "only 5 or 6 modules", he said. He has about 30-40 now, and buys another one every month [/quote] Oh damn I'm told the MiniBrute partnered with another oscillator is the gateway drug into modular synthesis......

[quote name='hairychris' timestamp='1478193242' post='3167465'] Modular GAS is hell, because the individual parts aren't that expensive.... says the man who had a drum module turn up a few days ago! I really want a Trigger Riot to drive it. And a Pamela's Workout to deal with clocking. And I only have 2 oscillators (well, plus the MicroBrute and Doepfer Dark Energy). And aaaargh. EDIT: Highly recommended utility module - Expert Sleepers Disting MkII [/quote] Yes, the Disting is on my "Must-Have Utility" list along with the 4ms RCD On another note, DV247 have been really good and let me try the synth out in store on Saturday. Shipping was quick and the MiniBrute arrived Tuesday. Only now unboxed it and.....yep, they've shipped a Euro two-pin power cord in the box. B*ll*cks As a temporary work-around I happened to have another 12V PSU laying around with the right gendered DC barrel plug. We've got plenty of Euro-UK adapters knocking around at work so I'll grab one of them tomorrow and re-use the original PSU. On a good note, the synth is plugged in and warming up right now. Yay! Speakers next....if you hear a loud, low rumble where you live, s'ok, it's just me turning up the sub-oscillator......and oooooooh, it goes down -2 octaves........brown note time

[quote name='BassTractor' timestamp='1478097002' post='3166723'] I hate you so much right now! You totally won me over, and I'm on the verge of ordering one, despite my wallet's despicable opinions. Thanks for posting, and congrats with your new Brute! Enjoy! [/quote] [quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1478098411' post='3166738'] They're awesome synths. I've got GAS for the MatrixBrute and the DrumBrute... [/quote] Me, I'd be happy with a MakeNoise 0-coast and a Euro-rack box of some description. Module GAS is hell. This is my shortlist: Makenoise 0-Coast Makenoise Wogglebug Makenoise Maths Music Thing Modular Turing Machine Music Thing Modular Radio Music 4ms Rotating Clock Divider Mutable Instruments Elements Pittsburgh Modular Oscillator And that's just for starters. Have got Rack GAS now too

[quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1460133887' post='3023001'] About 10 days ago I ordered an Arturia MiniBrute, but my order was about 3 minutes late and they were out of stock. I was told it would be 3-4 weeks. But I was surprised by a delivery today! Not had much time to mess about with it, but for a single oscillator synth it sounds massive!! [/quote] That is so cool! Just got mine delivered yesterday - was out last night so hasn't even been unboxed yet. Got the Red version (no other difference other than the colour). I did a head-to-head comparison with its smaller brother the MicroBrute. Wasn't that impressed with the keys on the micro, worth spending the extra on the mini IMHO. Plus it has aftertouch too. For that money a really good spec.

[quote name='hrnn1234' timestamp='1477477394' post='3162439'] I've been fooling around with pedal mods for a while and I've come to the idea of building an analog stompbox with a few handy things. Nothing too fancy, so far I think it will be enough having some kind of: preamp, mild overdrive, distortion and a wild fuzz. Nothing that hasn't been done before. Ive been doing some research and there are nice schematics available, tried already, which I would only have to tune to my liking. I'm leaving out modulation effects as the only thing I use that's not dirt is an octaver which I wont be able to improve by doing it myself. For this kind of thing I'd also put some effect loop in the box. Questions for you people: would you add/remove something to this? Is there a tried and true DIY compression you coukd recommend? Most of the designs seem to be based on the opto-coupler concept and I'm not sure how better off I could be doing it myself. Cheers! [/quote] Nice! Just my £0.02, maybe include a balanced DI out with a wet/dry (clean) blend. I'm thinking similar to the Valeton Dapper

Just caught this thread. Are you guys still looking for a solution? Have you maybe looked at a Euro-rack modular solution. There's an awful lot of gear that would probably do what you need to (albeit quite expensive). I was thinking a sequencer (with eight or sixteen steps) could modulate the filter cutoff frequency via a CV input, and gate the output as well giving you controllable portamento between successive steps. Just a thought

Wood for the body blank has arrived! Woohoo That's the good news. Sourced some American Ash from these folks [url="http://woodentops.co.uk/"]here[/url] - they actually specialise in kitchen worktops and have pre-laminated the sections together for me. Blank is 600x450x38mm and is semi-finished i.e. planed/thicknessed but no fine sanding. I've taken some photos of the grain (looks spectacular) but I can't seem to upload piccies at the moment. The bad news is that I've suffered another eye infection. Can't drive. Had to cancel tonights' woodworking class. Then it's half-term so I'm a couple of weeks behind now Really got the (drill) bit between the teeth as well..... Still, now gives me time to get all my router templates ready, then the big push to finish after the half-term break. On course to have it completed by Christmas....I hope. Any suggestions for wood treatment i.e. varnish or lacquer? Ian

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1475656133' post='3147625'] Excellent! Can't wait [/quote] Yes, I'm kinda intrigued to see how this turns out. Started roughing out a template yesterday evening, looks a little like the Stu Hamm sig model posted above but with more lean (i.e a little more asymmetry with the curve at the bridge end). Taking out a little more with the belly and bottom reliefs (not quite as extreme as a Ritter ) so it's less Fender-ish

Have now started the wood working class. First couple of weeks were being tutored on different aspects of using workshop tools etc but should be clear of that now and can concentrate on the build. Wood ordered today so should be here in a couple of weeks. Next two weeks I shall be prepping templates and the like. Have got a few designs in mind - just need to commit them to paper.....

Gear is all packed up ready to load in tomorrow morning - early start and the car will be chocka see you all there

[quote name='silverfoxnik' timestamp='1474494607' post='3138458'] We also need a small guitar amp for the Herbie Flowers talk as well, if possible. Is anyone bringing one with them? [/quote] I'll probably be bringing my DIY tweed champ head (4W) and I could rustle up a cab too (1x12). Will that be suitable?

Have now got a control plate and neck plate courtesy of Grangur (many thanks!)

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1471718581' post='3115329'] Hi, Ian There is a frets and bridge calculator on the Stewmac site but it does assume you are using a standard Fender P-bass bridge How I do it is slightly different to what you say. If I have at least 4mm adjustment of the saddles, I wind the G saddle to the very front and place that at the scale length, knowing that it will wind back maybe 1mm but that the bass strings will be able to wind back at least 4mm (the bottom E is usually at least 3mm back from scale length - but can be more. However, the G saddle will never be in front of the scale length but often isn't much further back than that). If I have more limited saddle movement, then I would wind the G to the front and place it 1mm max back from scale length. Hope this helps and anyone who disagrees please do chip in! [/quote] [quote name='Grangur' timestamp='1471719263' post='3115334'] This is about what I do. IMHO it's a matter of trying to get it that the G saddle isn't so far forward as to be a touch "unstable", but still have enough travel on the E saddle to not totally compress the spring, or worse. Having just measured 4 basses, the saddle of the G sting is pretty consistently 34" from the bridge side edge of the nut. [/quote] That's all good information to know many thanks chaps I love BC for just this reason. All the accumulated knowledge is here.

Bridge & MM Pickup sorted (many thanks Thunderbird) and neck with maple fretboard (Dannybuoy) Have a little question regarding placing the bridge. Obviously this will be a 34" scale bass (as the neck is already fretted for that scale length), so how does one determine the optimum position? Do you pick the midpoint of the saddle travel front to back or is there an offset position to account for string intonation? Cheers, Ian

Jus met up with Dan to purchase a neck for a Jazz bass. Absolute gent and pleasure to do business

Picked up the bridge and pickup from the Post Office this morning. All intact and well wrapped. Parts as described. No worries! Many thanks for such an easy transaction. Pleasure dealing with you Ian

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1471627902' post='3114639'] I'd say putting a Jazz pickup behind a MM pickup in the Typical 'Ray location will give you a pretty narrow scope of sound compared to, say a S MM S - putting a Jazz pickup behind AND in front of the MM pickup. I love the neck pickup sound though. If you're not a fan please feel free to ignore! [/quote] I had at one point considered the JMMJ route, but I just can't seem to like the layout that much TBH. I tend to play my Ibby Jazz a-like with the neck pup mostly rolled off anyway, and the bridge all the way up. I did think about the 'Ray 4HS layout as there is actually a second single-coil pup routed under the pickguard for humcancelling the neck pickup. Still, the design is in it's early stages so I'll be adjusting the spec and position of bits until I'm happy with the layout and start commiting to the wood selection. PS like the flamed tops, especially the diagonal bookmatched one

[quote name='Mykesbass' timestamp='1471471217' post='3113353'] MM & Jazz - isn't the jazz usually the neck pickup? Nothing wrong with being different though! [/quote] Yes, you're absolutely correct, as per MusicMan Stingray 4HS, Sandberg Cali TM4's etc. My only "gripe" with that particular layout is that the MM is much further back towards the bridge. I prefer having the humbucker in it's normal position for a Musicman, with a Jazz-style single-coil in the bridge position to get that "burpy" tone reminiscent of a Jazz bass with the bridge pup rolled all the way up. Still working on the control layout - whether to go VVT, VBT, Vol-Select-Tone or some other arrangement with coil-tap/split options

[quote name='PlungerModerno' timestamp='1471475233' post='3113390'] Have you seen the Stu Hamm sig Washburn? He's now with Warwick - Here's the ProtoType: [url="http://kekbfm.com/behold-be-among-the-first-in-the-world-to-glimpse-the-new-stu-hamm-signature-bass-photos/"]http://kekbfm.com/be...re-bass-photos/[/url] [url="http://kekbfm.com/behold-be-among-the-first-in-the-world-to-glimpse-the-new-stu-hamm-signature-bass-photos/"][/url] And the signature instrument: Which oddly enough doesn't have the usual Single coil & MM style pickup - it has two soapbars! [/quote] Yes, I had something in mind similar to the Washburn, with a maple neck/fretboard. Bass body would be mostly swamp ash with a maple cap and a contrast veneer to suit (whatever the wood guy can source for me)