Jack

Thats just missing out on one of the best features of the amp IMO. What you want is enough gain to almost clip the input and then boost at at least 1o'clock. Then as much on the master as you need, usually not very much. Actually, thats what I want. Your loss.

[quote name='jono b' post='116544' date='Jan 8 2008, 09:03 PM']I need a thick, meaty bass sound,[/quote] If youd be ok with adding 'punchy' and maybe 'growly' then Id say youd be very happy. They arent vintage and old school like Ashdown though, think more modern. You really need to try one before laying THAT amount of money surely?

[quote name='paul, the' post='57552' date='Sep 8 2007, 09:13 PM']ICan you think of a brand that is humble, ethical, honest, reliable, creates an instrument with a quality tone, doesn't add ridiculous mark-up based on reputation and is affordable to the gigging bassist?[/quote] Basses: Musicman Amps: Hartke Both of those companies have ethical policies, products that don't cost an arm and a leg, and if you really really want to, you can talk to the head honcho (Sterling Ball and Larry Hartke respectively) to clear up any issues. I bet a lot of the smaller companies are similar, but wont fit into your 'affordable to the gigging bassist' category.

It would get louder with the 2x10, for definate. Thing is, its probably still not enough to get you through ANY gig, sorry. As with anything though, you can always cheat and use the Ashdown sound on a gig. (Why is beyond me, Im not a fan of the cheaper Ashdown combos but meh) Just take a standard 1/4" cable from the 'headphone' socket on the ashdown and into the 'effects return'/'power amp in' on the fender. Just remember that the gain and eq on the fender wont work, and neither will the speaker on the Ashdown. In other words, use the ashdown to change the sound, use the fender to change the volume, et voila.

In response to the OP, its about as important as "should i buy the 300W or 600W amp?" Because your amp would need twice the power with the 103db cab to sound as loud as using the 106db cab. As with anything, this only happens in the hypothetical magical pixie-world that sadly eludes us mere mortals. As has been discussed previously a lot of manufacturers inflate or downright lie about their sensitivity ratings. And even then, the standard (when its used fairly) is to measure cabs at 1kHz which is so utterly pointless for the majority of bass players that the sensitivity wouldnt make much difference even if it was truthfull. Props to people like Bill Fitzmaurice for actually publishing response graphs.

[url="http://entertainment.webshots.com/photo/2298551410056487155xfUBzn"][/url] GK 1001/II, Neo 112. Theres also a matching 212, not that it gets much use these days.

Dont see why you cant just use your big rig and make liberal counter-clockwise modifications to the volume knob. Some of the amps on your list are HUGE and heavy, certainly not portable. What is your big rig anyway? And what do you really want this new amp to do that your current amps dont?

I agree with mikeh, fantastic sound to begin with, coupled with huge volume and very very very light cabs is the way to go. GK 1001 (750W) along with one or both GK Neo 112 and 212. Its so easy to move Im taking the head/112 to gigs where I used to just use a DI box. Well, Id take any amp over none.

Hey, another TB'er.

A small rig with a top over a sub should work. No reason for it not too, but this requires a crossover to do which makes it a bit more complicated. A four space rack with a preamp, a xover and a 2 channel power amp would make a tidy little rig. Just make sure like the sound of bass through a PA. I'd miss a proper bass cab.

Id bet you could get into some serious volume and not have to worry about overpowering anyway. Dont worry too much, if it sounds stressed (well your particular case does anyway, i mean moreso!) back off the volume.

See? Now youre getting it!

Well if you really insist. But I will say one thing if you're set on Uli's products: PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE get the paper-coned Behringer cab and not the metal cones, they suck much less.

Trust me, the output wattage is 100W. I've just looked again and the AC consumption was 28W, which might explain all of this. Anyway weve kind of drifted off-topic a little here. Have you decided what you want to do about your amp situation?

Hmmmmm, looks like maybe you have the Cube 100 then, and not the Cube 30 as you first thought.

[quote name='ergon' post='90970' date='Nov 19 2007, 05:44 PM']i got the 28w figure from the instruction manual, where it says 'RMS:28W' , there are apparently several different measurements of output, RMS is the only really consistant one when looking at the power capability of an amplifier.[/quote] Nope, even RMS can be fudged. I'm fairly some of those 10kW car audio amps are measured at something ridiculous like 15kHz. I just loked up the manual, it definately says 100W. You sure you have the Cube 100 and not the 30? Even so the difference between 100 and 28W really isnt too much.

[quote name='ergon' post='90342' date='Nov 18 2007, 04:41 PM']Ok, there's beeen a miss understanding, i didn't mean that if you used a amp lower than the rating of the cab it would blow up, of course it woun't!, i said it would be innefficient, also i never said that using and amp rated higher than the cab that it would definatly blow up even at low volumes! What i was saying is that to use a cab of a certain value of watts with minimal risk of it being damaged and without it being inefficient you would have to use the right value of amp. It obvious that underpowering an amp wont do any damage, but for using the speaker with maximum efficiency a 30watt amp just wont do! I'm pretty sure a man with over 30 years experience in industrial and electrical engineering who runs his own business where he works for and advises other people on how to design and build furnaces and gasifiers using very high voltage power circuits etc. is not going to be talking out of his behind when it comes to physics.[/quote] Well to be honest I started answering you and then moved on to just general info that people could use. What do you mean by it being 'inefficient'?

Eh, one man's 'smooth warm roundness' is another man's 'undefined muddy mush'. I really liked mine (MAG 410 combo and 115 cab), just needed something that could do old and new.

Lastly, here is an Ashdown cab for cheaper than the Behringer. For a few pounds more you could have the Hartke or warwick as well. [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/cat.html?gf=4x10_bass_cabinets&oa=pra"]Look at me and don't buy rubbish![/url] And now, I promise I'm done.

Heh, Ive just remembered this thread is actually about Behringer gear. Theres a massive 'business practice' issue you need to be made aware of first, go google. That alone means Id never buy any of it, ever, even if it was the best gear in the world and they paid me to use it. Id rather hum my lines through a mic. But thats up to you. As an example, go find Bob Lee (of QSC amplifiers). He's very active online and actually wrote some of the Behringer manual. Of course, they didnt tell him that as they copied the RMX amps they were also nicking word-for-word excerpts from the manual. Imagine the mirth and glee that QSC had that day. Then there is the issue of reliability, again, google. It works great for many people, but seems to blow up a lot too. Lastly, there is another issue. A huge-elephant in the room issue. Used Peavey gear would hold its value better (fact) can be found cheaper when the right deal comes along (fact) sound better (my opinion) and last longer (my opinion) than anything Behringer make. Hell, I sold my Ashdown rig for £next-to-nothing so there's plenty of stuff out there. I'm by NO means a gear snob, I like a lot of brands that are poo-pooed by other people. All I'm saying is, when your Behringer stuff gives up the ghost at that really important gig, with the A+R people there from that local label. I told you so.

[quote name='ergon' post='89587' date='Nov 16 2007, 07:34 PM']I've had a lot of physics explained to me over the past 2 days, one of them being, you only need a 100 watt amp to drive a 500 watt speaker however, my cube as it turn out is only 28watt RMS, meaning it's not actually 100watt, it's just a really efficiant 30watt amp. If i were to want to use the 1000watt behringer cab without blowing it up or using it inefficiantly i would need a 200watt amp, behringers ultrabass head is 409 watt RMS meaning your stack would need to be a minimum of 2020watts combined to be running, this is apparently because of the safety room required to avoid blowing up valuable equipment, the reviews are mixed, but can i trust them anyway? i don't know what people have tried them with, if they were using the correct impedance or too powerfull an amp for their stack at full volume constantly. was the rig up a against the wall and unable to get enough air to areas that required it for cooling? was the room very very dusty? I've decided that i'm going to do this properly. i'm using the cube, and a 100watt amp then i'm going to get a new 500watt amp, why not second hand? simply because i want to try everything straight from the factory and if stuff goes wrong to have a garrantee to fall back on, i'm not after appreciation of value, if i was i would buy a house (not in britian however with it's iminent price crash that all politicians are denying) this project is officially on hold untill i get some money together.[/quote] Hey, just to clear up a few points here. First, whomever told you this is talking out of their behind. You can have cabs that handle 20 bazillion watts of power and use a 3 watt amp, wont make a damn bit of difference. Many people make blanket statements like 'underpowering is bad for cabs' and they think they're right, that they're doing you a favour but you need to be aware of all of the facts first. The thing is, if you drive an amp to the point of clipping (that horrible sound when its running flat-out) it can put out power much higher than its rated for, for a long period of time. Lets use an example rig of a head that puts out 100 watts and a cab that can handle 150 watts. This seems senible right? Plenty of margin for error. But its not really because 100 watts is nothing (personally I'd never gig with less that 300, but thats just me) so you turn your amp right up all the way. Lets see where this plan goes downhill. A head run into serious clipping can increase its output by 3db very easily. So now the 100 watt head is doing 200 watts continuously into a cabinet that can only handle 150. Result? Damaged speakers. And people will tell you that because this happened to them, you should never underpower a speaker cos it'll be bad. However, lets say your 100 watt head is feeding a cab that will take 1000. No damaged speakers even if you run the amp to 11 all night. You see now where these 'never underpower or you'll be eaten by goblins' people are going wrong? Conversely, a big amp that's run well within its limits can often be used safely on cabs even with lower power ratings. Lets use an amp that does 450 watts and a cab that will take 300 watts. Because the amp is being run clean and not clipped and because you're not using the amp to its full volume the cab will be fine. An upside is when you slap that low B and use the full power from your big amp even if the cab gets 900 watts for a millisecond (+3db remember?) it will be fine and just keep on rocking. 900 watts all night will most likely result in a short (but spectacular) fireworks display on stage, so be careful with that volume control. What's the point of all this? Power handling is one of the LEAST important factors to consider when buying a rig. Power output can be VERY important, NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUND. As long as the amp is loud enough (clean, unclipped power) and the cab is somewhere in the same ballpark, everything should be fine. The onus is YOU the operator, if something sounds bad, or speaker cones are shooting at your ankles, something isn't right. That second example? Its one of my rigs and serves me just fine. This has been a public service announcement brought to you by Jack Elliott. (Who is sick of amp disinformation!)

Im going to guess either a CL or VR. Theyre the big pro heads that artists tend to get. Now maybe Im wrong, Im not a huge NOFX fan. One thing to remember if youre shooting for 'that' tone is that after his sound left the amp, it went through a mic, some outboard and a mixer channel strip, IF the amp was miked. If it wasnt, you might not have even been hearing his amp at all.

I think youre confusing ports with transmission lines. Euphonic Audio are the only people making tranmission line cabs for musicians. [url="http://www.eaamps.com/2005/technology/transmission_line.htm"]EA Transmission Line[/url]

As always, the main thing is: how does it sound? Frequency range usually has some science behind it, but dont put too much thought into it. An industry standard cab is the Eden 410XST, and that starts rolling off about 50-something Hz. All the usual caveats with different speaker sizes and combinations apply to ERBs too, and you certainly cant generalise speakers too much, all 4x10s certainly dont sound like X, and not all 15" speakers are too slow for Y. If weight/size are an issue, a lot of Neo cabs are geared towards a smoother, more full-range sound (wether this is [u]because[/u] the speakers are neo and that [u]makes[/u] them sound different or not has been discussed ad nauseum). Either way you should get extended response and lighter weight from your average neo cab.

[quote name='fusionbassist1' post='83988' date='Nov 5 2007, 02:45 PM']lucky you....very lucky you....or should I say 'ye'. losing the ashdown wouldn't have been that bad though, the unforseen spark would have been it's only chance to shine.[/quote] Did someone wake up cranky this morning?