Paulhauser

John East preamps work very well with active pickups, I have one paired with 5 string EMG PJ's.

Can't comment on the Korean ones but I have a couple of Euros and a few US NS-5's/6's and I do hear and feel the difference between them. My buckeye burl NS-5XL is simple the best bass I have ever had and I use that exclusively for recording since I got it. (Never take that out for gigs though) With that said the newer Euros like my Euro 435 come really close to the US ones. But to be fair this is a solid white one with maple wings so no fancy wood to make a big visual difference.

That was my observation, too. Very well played, I especially like how the pick with the ghost notes gives an extra drive to the lines.

I think it’s the other way around, for a long time since the beginning it had the HZ. Anyway I cannot comment on the Bart as I haven’t played it. I personally would either start with changing the preamp without changing the pu or buy an EBS Microbass as it can handle two instruments with separate eqing so you can dial in both of your instruments and leave them plugged in throughout the show. edit:the new one has built in tuner and compressor too and is a great all around preamP / DI. I use mine for most than a decade now (2nd generation)

What is the pickup in your bass? There are different versions of this model depending the vintage.

Thank! As for a natural SR Special hoe about this?

As I already have a Stingray 5 I'd either source a SR5 30th anniversary or a new Special SR5 HH (would probalby change the pg to pearl white) Now that I think of it I might just do it as well 🙂

@thisisswanbon a longer strap might help. I am actually at the opposite point: I really like that my Spector stays put in the same steep angled position that is very similar to the classic sit down playing style where the bass is between the legs- this is how I practice so it makes a smooth transition. See my profile pic....

No. I like and respect Cort's instruments for what they are - having owned a couple in the past - but for me they never quite made the right package in any of their instruments.

No worries, glad to help a fellow Spector player. If you have the time please post some pics. These new LT's are killer and haven't seen a red one IIRC.

@ozzy138 worry you not, it is the Darkglass tone capsule but not in the ""box" housing. https://www.darkglass.com/creations/tone-capsule/ Congrats on your Spector, great choice!

Had to watch the video posted above to understand what you meant about using Dunlops with normal straps as the two basses I have Dunlops on have recessed "pins" , they are flush so there is nothing to attach a normal strap to. Never knew that they are offering pins, too. I'm using Schallers for most of my basses for the last 15 years, gig regularly and never had any Schallers unscrewing themselves. But I have to note that I tighten the strap-part especially strongly and check the pin screws every string change (when I normally oil the board and check up the bass in general)

Of the 11 basses I own 10 have dark fingerboards (2 ebony, 2 pau ferro, 2 wengé, 4 rosewood) I was never partial to certain fingerboards and I think the numbers above come from the fact that those basses I wanted / liked / kept in the end had mosty dark wooden boards as part of the specs. The one exception is my Atelier Z custom M265. There is just something for me in a '70 kind of jazz bass look...maple with white bindigs and block inlays.

Sorry for being a bit off topic here but all the tapered core strings I have used had the tapered section as a part of the speaking lenght of the string. Most of the tapered B strings I have used had only the core wire touching the bridge saddle and it tapers to full width after that point - in the speaking lenght of the string, not to the other way.

These are great beasts, I used to have 3 of them, I liked the one with the TW pickups the most. (The only reason I don't own one is that I have a US Spector 6) Congratulations for having it and I hope it will be a long time partner for you. I honestly think they are capable of doing anything a sixer should with strong and articulte lows to clear highs and all this coupled with a very ergonomic design. As @cetera said the preamp needs some time to get used to but once the trimpot is fixed and the bass / trebles settings are understood it is a really useful preamp. Have fun with it and go, gig it 🙂

😄 English is not my first language and if you add some typos then the result can be...hilarious 😄

One of the best deals around, fortunately I'm not on the market for a Euro 4LX - and the pickup only option is not an option for me anyways but you seem to get that sorted 🙂

Congratulations and welcome to the Spector family!

Three days? That's quite a long time, congrats 🙂 I know better and don't plan such things....... 😄

Well in short, yes. I have found a couple of them actually, my US made NS Forte 6 sounds and feels better than any of my previous 3 Euro 6s that I have owned and used before . My two Euro5s are highly modified and have a history with me and the white Euro 435 is simply a killer bass that I use now for my main gig so I hold the Euro line in very high regard and came through enough of the to be able to pick up the best of them really.

@Al Krow I can only quote what I've written about it in another topic. Hope it helps.

Thank you! My post was intended to reflect upon the previous couple of posts assessing the different models that Spector offer rather than an answer to your original question (to which I have already wrote my thoughts some days ago above) or finding an excuse to show off my bass. Apologies if it came off another way. I’m sure you will find the bass that suits your needs, be it Spector or else. Have fun with the process 🙂

I have gone through many Spectors and I believe that personal preferences are very important and also the fact how they meet with a certain instrument. I'm a 5 string player (or should I say, I need at least the BEAD strings) What I have gathered so far: - I liked my Euro 5 basses over the Korean ones had. - I never really liked Euro 4s until I got my maple winged Euro 435 which is a 35" Euro 4 with X series PJs. - I had US made NS-5XL's that I did not consider to be better (for me) as my Euro 5's - One of my NS-5XL (pictured below) is simply another level compared to any of the Spectors I have every had or heard. The richness of the tone, the depth of it, the nuances and the look / playability is second to none, all other basses considered. It is my main recording and practicing bass and I feel very privileged to have found 'my' instrument. I have other Spectors and other basses of very high quality (Atelier Z, Prestige Ibbys, MM SR5 etc) but this is always the one. I don't know if there is any takeaway for you from the above but my experience is that finding your great instrument is transcending sales categories, price points and places / means of manufacturing but there is one thing for sure for me, the best bass I have is the one I have paid the most for. And we are looong after the honeymoon period.

Great, I know how you feel. As I have said that is one of the best looking natural Euros I've ever seen. The EMG preamp is a great choice especially for the mids and will be easy to drop in. As for the pickups, EMG is the way to go with the Spectors, I have EMG is all my 7 of them. One of my Euro435 came with Aguilar PJ but replaced with the X series EMG PJ and it sounds absouletely killer. What I also like is that with the EMG 40's housing that they have in the Euro5 / NS-5XLs is they offer a great variety within that housing, meaning you can get dual coils (DC) splitable coils (TW) or P or J. I have a 5 string pre- LX Euro5 with 40P and 40J and it sounds much like my 4 string PJ. In one of my NS-5XLs I have used a double P for a year or so and due to the quick connect pin they are very easy to replace / change.

Be quick or be dead (Spectorless) right? 🙂