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warwickhunt

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Everything posted by warwickhunt

  1. Watched 2 minutes of that... Jeez what is so difficult about carrying a TRS>XLR cable with you when you have a Tonex, Stomp et al?
  2. I know it is stressful but if you are saying that ebay have refunded you and the buyer is recompensed then I'd say that is far from an ebay 'woe'! If you'd sold it privately and shipped it yourself, you might be having a far greater set of woes to be getting an insurance pay out.
  3. Worth looking at whether all the sockets are on the same ring and seeing if you can plug into one set of sockets; obviously being aware of the load placed on the socket.
  4. No. The 'reverse' TRs are nearly always on basses 91 or earlier (not encountered a 92 that is reverse) and it is defo NOT all Warwicks of this early period... just some!
  5. I 'think' I've just ordered x2 12 string set for £48.63... if that is for 2 sets (image shows box that states 2 sets), then it is virtually half price! @Sean @12stringbassist @Wolverinebass
  6. Always stacked my RS210 cabs vertically and unless you are throwing each other around the stage or placing a massive, wide amp on the top (place it side end on the floor next to the bottom cab), it is perfectly stable.
  7. It's a bit odd if it simply doesn't work 'at all'; I could understand if it were distortion, lack of output or other issues. Do both basses work OK with a regular lead? Is the plug inserting all the way into the socket? Do you have anyone local who could test your system with other basses and/or have a wireless system that you can try with your basses?
  8. As soon as I saw it advertised online I queried the weight (too much experience of purported sub 9lb Musicman basses... that aren't). When they put it on the scales and gave me a money back guarantee that it was that weight, I snapped it up.
  9. It must be starting to work but I've a feeling there is more to this!
  10. Is the YT channel actually his? Look at his 2 comments, phrased as though it is his show.
  11. 123 followers of this thread. If each person posts a couple of times (plus gives it a thumbs down), then maybe he'll take the hint?
  12. If this YTer is actively removing these comments I'm assuming he has researched the allegations... in which case he is implicit in covering up this scammer!
  13. Education, education, education... maybe 'The Showcase Hull' needs some? TBH he only gets away with these scams as folk just don't know about him, if his name and the 'facts' about him are spread wide enough, he'll find it harder and harder.
  14. 2 comments on so far re. fraud. So long as comments are factual, it'd be good if there were a few more added... just saying folks!
  15. I have an 88 Sabre... 8lb 2oz (and I know how to use scales)!
  16. You are retaining the tension of the E A and D and losing the tension of the G BUT most B strings are of a similar tension to a G string; ergo the overall tension remains relatively similar.
  17. You might well get away with an appropriate width round file and simply broaden what you have.
  18. All the slots that those grub screws go into are the same size. re. a tech - you will need to set the bass up for the new tension, tuning, intonation but the one thing you've not considered is that you'll need a B string bridge saddle or the saddle you have widening BUT I'm aware that some B string thicknesses won't seat in the string ball end anchor but that might be solely down to your string choice.
  19. Yep that's easy. As @tauzero has posted the pic and link; you simply buy one of those and put it where you present E string slot is, then move the E A D down one position.
  20. Does your bass have this brass nut? Unless you buy specific BEAD strings, you can just buy 5 string set and bin the G... probably cheaper that way.
  21. If you have the adjustable brass nut, any self respecting luthier should be able to take a file to broaden the shoulders of the slots OR see if you can source just the B string stud for a 5 string and then simply utilise your existing E A D but move them up 1 string. Don't buy the plastic adjuster nut as they are cack, you'd do better to get the luthier/tech to simply file you a new blank nut (do you really need to adjust it?).
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