Al Heeley

I'm sure I came across a post on the Guitar project forum where a cyanoacrylate (superglue) had been flooded onto a fingerboard for a fretless bass, dries quick and rock-hard but you could end up with a couple of fingers stuck to it if you're not careful and they would all laugh at you in casualty. Stter away from yacht varnish & similar air-drying alkyd resins.

Conventional wisdom says Wah first before sound gets too corrupted, then limiter/comp. (Actually, Tuner should come before that) Next is filth, that would be the ODB3, then modulation - chorus pedal, or phaser, flanger, etc. then eq. Then any reverb/delay/echo. The BCB-60 pedalboard has a neat little removable section so you can fit a wah in there furthest right - that's a clue to the best pedal chain order! This is conventional wisdom, but you should not always follow the norm in search of novel tone, so don't be afraid to mix it up a bit. experiment with position of the eq, chorus and overdrive, you may prefer a different config. depends on what you are trying to achieve.

Boss CEB-3: £75, well-known and used, warm, rounded and gentle EBS chorus - £120? Not tried personally (too dear) but highly rated EHX: Small clone: classic nirvana chorus sound - £55 Digitech bass multi: £50 - £75 - digital, a bit metallic sounding but very deep powerful effects. A few others - boutique, expensive, well loved

Hey - theres my Marshall 115 extn cab I sent back as the crossover card kept rattling itself loose with my massive F U N K !

I'd stick 2 new velcro pads to the underside then attach it to the ceiling of the gig venue, that way you can create an interesting talking point as well as havng a functional compressor.

Need to play around a bit more then with comp level, as activating the comp in front of the BMS seemed to deaden the dynamics of the effect. Anyway, thanks to your link I now have a modded BMS pedal with true bypass and a proper fx status LED rather than a power on/off LED.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='893087' date='Jul 12 2010, 07:28 PM']Yes the newer model is true bypass, it's the older one that has a horrifically awful always-on buffer in it.[/quote] Thanks for the link sir, will check out. EHX mention about feeding a compressor into it, but then you're going to drastically reduce the attack dynamincs for the filter operation?

Advice sought on best place within fx chain for an ehx bass microsynth. We have: tuner, compression, distortion, chorus + BMS at the core of my pedalboard. Also, I hear some bad press about tone suck from the BMS in bypass mode, is this true? Is it so bad it should be modded or put onto a bypass loop using another footswitch?

Looking great so far. You can get wiring kits from Axes'r'Us online, or go to Bobs bitsbox and order the separate pots, caps , etc. and do your own, following one of the schematics from the Seymour Duncan Schematics pages.

Normally ebay has a few vendors but I tend to make my own using inkjet decal paper. its maybe £2.50 a sheet but you can do loads with that [url="http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/ProductDetail.asp?ProductID=158&CatID=15&kw=inkjet%20water-slide%20decal%20paper&fl=407202&ci=3097825132&network=s&gclid=COC_1IrS5aICFUMA4woduHxlwg"]http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/Produ...CFUMA4woduHxlwg[/url]

I've told our band we have to cover this version for our next gig - outstanding!

[quote name='munkonthehill' post='891764' date='Jul 11 2010, 08:47 AM']Now im unsure if its the strings that are making it this way or its the construction of the stingray that makes it just so easy to play.[/quote] Heh, that will be the 'ray Glad you like it !

I'd try Axes R Us - huge stock, great guys to deal with and very cost-effective [url="http://axesrus.com/"]http://axesrus.com/[/url]

Thanks, I decided to get me one, its certainly a lot lusher, fuller than the CEB-3, gives me a much stronger chorus than the Boss pedal is capable of, if I want it, but also can be quite subtle. It has a sort of metallic tone to it - I guess being digital, the Boss is sort of warmer and rounder, but as you say it really does accentuate the harmonics and its done a much better job for what i want it for. I've got it mains-powered on my pedalboard, the only thing I'm not entierly clear about is how to activate the cab sim mode and how not to. Are yoou supposed to keep the footswitch held down when u plug in?

If I'm playing a bass they are charging £2.5k for, I'm going to expect a pretty slick setup on it.

old pair of dads pants

these should do the trick - couple of shorter ones on their way too in case you need a bit more tension.

I have a big box of assorted springs from ebay. Send me a pm with the width and lengh dimensions and I'll pop a couple in an envelope for you.

ooh-errr, Peavey say 4ohms should be minimum load for their Tour series heads. I asked in the Hartke subforum about how to rewire the 410 cab as a 4ohm to get the max push out of the amp and was told it could not be done.

[quote name='munkonthehill' post='888756' date='Jul 7 2010, 06:03 PM']im curious, the body on the stingray is glossy as with most basses. however the neck appears to be non-glossy and natural wood. The fretboard and neck appear to be the same cut of wood. is this normal for MM basses?[/quote] EBMM necks are natural maple, maple boards or rosewood, the necks are oil finished, silk or matt, so you need to do a bit of maintainance on them twice a year or they get grubby. Plenty of info about this on the EBMM site/forum. My neck is definitely not same cut of wood as fretboard but its well matched. Think - how would they get the truss rod in there? No skunk stripe on the back, like a strat.

Ypu are perfectly correct Bill, both designed to run parallel, I was curious to find if there was any difference atall. Somehow I feel happier using the amp heads twin outputs but now i am intrigued about the possibility to series-wire, and what I could gain from this. Both cabs are 8ohm - 4x10 hartke XL and hartke 115XL. The Tour 450 head is designed to run at 450w into 4ohm. I think its about 300w into 8ohm. The hartke booklet suggests daisy chaining - i guess if your amp head has only one output socket then you have no choice.