Al Heeley

yep and the original Fuzz Face has less than half the components of the fuzz factory

they never really established a good name for themselves on basses. I have 2 PRS lead guitars that get gigged regularly, they are great instruments that for me far outstrip a les paul or a strat in terms of build quality, sound quality, playability and versatility, but I hate to see all this expensive fancy stuff destined for a collectors wallhanging, they should be things made to be played.

As bad? If you want bad, try Behringer's equivalent, the little Boss unit is great don't hurt its feelings

...and watch for any shims that might have been placed there, they could slip out and you need to maintain their position exactly when you refit the neck so the alignment & action is preserved.

[quote name='badgerific' post='863605' date='Jun 10 2010, 06:55 PM']I built this kit for my friend: [url="http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/i...rdrive-kit.html"]http://www.musikding.de/product_info.php/i...rdrive-kit.html[/url] He said he tried put a battery in and the battery got really hot really quickly. Any idea's what's wrong? It works from a power supply.[/quote] your link is fubar. If it works from a power supply then theres no need for battery. If the battery and mains are clashing then that would explain why the battery gets v hot. The dc input jacks have to be wired so that inserting it disconnects the battery from the circuit. Now I may be stating the obvious here but theres not really enough info in your post to be able to offer more specific help.

<---Warmoth Gecko in my avatar pic, all models afaik, are 35".

intonation? Gopod grief, its a bass sir, what use have we of such finery?!

The thing is, the LS6 is both latch and momentary in one unit. I happen to have a FS-5U and FS-5L which slot together and are currently surplus to requirement, together they will do the same thing. If you are interested send me a pm and I'll accept far less than £50 for the pair, if you can make good use of them. The loop station is amazing - it already has 7 stompswitches on it, who would have thought you need another 2 off-board to get full functionality?

There's only 3 things to get sorted: 1) Nut height (or slot depth if you like) 2) Neck bow (action, truss rod) 3) Saddle height Start with nut height, if this is wrong then as jonnylager says, best get a pro to sort for you. Fret at the 5th fret and check string clearance at 1st fret. There should be only the thinnnest clearance between string and 1st fret so you can move it a fraction and hear it tap. If it is more than 1/2 a credit card thickness the slot depth is not enough. Truss rod action - smallest bit of relief is good - check by fretting 1st or 3rd and 17th or 20th and check theres still a minute bit of clearance on fret at halfway, the thickness of a piece of paper or two. Then the easy bit - adjust saddles to get a tiny bit of fret buzz, then raise them a fraction. You then need to quickly check each fret and each note to see if your frets are all nice and level. If only one or 2 are buzzing then thats a quick wet'n'dry job by a pro if you want to get it perfect. Don't worry about fret buzz when playing unplugged - we all tend to play much harder as its quiet, check it plugged in and try to play same feel as when playing a song live.

i scrape the screw tip thru a bit of soap before screwing. If u can get the tip of a soldering iron to the screw u can heat it up really hot, it expands and makes the hole a tiny bit bigger, then when it cools it contracts and its looser to extract. Thanks to Dan erlwine for that handy tip.

What a great looking pedal! How did u do the top graphics? How does it sound?

don't treat the 'board with lemon oil before epoxying - it can prevent penetration and adhesion. Sopme of the many chemicals referred to and sold as lemon oil contain alkyd resins and oils which will hinder the epoxy. Dent alcohol or white spirit as a degreaser would be great, then let it all evaporate before epoxying.

rustins plaastic coating is urea-formaldehyde-based 2-part resin, aqueous-based so you can wash brushes out easier. Its good stuff but not quite as hard as epoxy. I've used it to finish off a couple of guitar bodies. you can get a really good gloss surface in the right hands.

[quote name='escholl' post='857850' date='Jun 4 2010, 11:55 PM']all pinouts for the same model number are always the same, regardless of who makes it. a 2n5088, for example, will have the same pin assignments across manufacturers.[/quote] ok thanks, thats one area i can rule out then, the 3 transistors should all be fine.

if u say the manufacturer doesn't matter, that implies that all pins for all makes are same, but I don't think that is always the case, so unless you know manufacturer, you can't be sure. I would assume a lot of the main types like J201's, n23904's, 3906, 5488, 5088 may all be the same but that's my assumption - i don't know. Debugging continues with an audioprobe, I'm also not ruling out a duff MN3007 chip at this stage.

[quote name='escholl' post='857546' date='Jun 4 2010, 06:35 PM']What did you use, and what was the original? [url="http://www.alldatasheet.com"]alldatasheet.com[/url] should sort you out.[/quote] I guess my problem is I don't know the manufacturer, they are just online ebay purchases. The case says: 2n 5088 -H19

solder 2 wires to where one of the diodes should go, then add ytour togle switch to the 2 wires, adding 2 more diodes direct to the switch, hen u can have the assym clipping

+ 1 : Save the bass! Don't cut it up, sell it to someone who appreciates it then use the money to buy some wood and put together something original from scratch

excellent! Works fine with the Peterson guitar lead adapter - sadly the petersen strobe tuner app has not worked properly since the Ipod Touch firmware updated itself. The Polytune is sweet and it's free! Pity I just spent £75 on the pedal.

The LFO is working, seems there's no wet signal coming in from the 4047 chip, twiddling the trim pot has no effect. Only thing I can think of is one of my transistors is a different make and the legsa are wrong way round??

[quote name='JackLondon' post='785200' date='Mar 24 2010, 10:38 PM']Had a long play with it now and the sound is very very good, very clear across all the range and when on full whack it changes into amazing vibratto. I'm well pleased with it and can really recommend this for anyone wanting a good clean chorus, with all the mods that are available it can be really good competitor for some of the mass market units but at a fraction of the cost![/quote] Just finished putting together my Small Clone and it sounds like I have the same issue, no depth at all to the Chorus. i can't tell if its on or off. I will check trim pot first and see how we go. Did u mod yours at all or left as stock circuit? Anything need doing to make it better for bass?

if the poles are just proud of the plastic you can also try using one of those 4-sided foam fingernail buffers you'll find in the wife's side of the bathroom cabinet, they work wonders as a mild abrasive for buffing up light metalwork.

It would be pretty cheap and simple for someone to put something like this together on veroboard and put it in a little enclosure. Drop me a pm if interested I can price it up for you.

[plug]I have a Boss SYB-3 up for sale at the moment if you're interested [/plug] [edit]sold.[/edit]