MattW

£25 posted before the go on eBay??

15 hours ago, Reggaebass said:

Matt I had a look in my parts drawer and I’ve got an old bridge off a fender jazz  that I replaced because someone had changed one of the saddles , the intonation screw is 42mm long, if it’s any good to you I’ll pop the saddle and screw in the post to you 

Thanks mate, that's really good of you to have a look for me!  I've actually got some on order arriving in the next day or two (for the princely sum of £2.09 from eBay) which I think are the right ones, but if not then I may well give you as shout and give yours a try!  Cheers!!!

To be fair I bought it second hand, and the bass was made in 2014, so I wasn't really expecting anything other than advice.

What I didn't show was that Mark also gave loads of details about the bass and it's build, so that was really helpful and interesting.

Just thought I'd update this thread as had a reply from Mark.   Wasn't able to help with thread size but did comment on the seizing issue which thought might help others considering a Limelight.   Mine was an early one apparently so they have changed their methods now!

"Re the saddle screws - unfortunately we tend to use several suppliers, and I know from experience that the threads can differ, so I can't give you a definitive answer sorry.

Incidentally, we do the ageing on the bridges (in fact all metalwork) in a different way now so that the screws don't seize in like they used to."

2 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

Hi Matt, I remember  someone here had the same problem, I’d get in touch with limelight, I’m sure they will send you a replacement 🙂

Cheers, I wondered about contacting them direct, but as I bought it second hand I didn't feel like I could pester them.   

Will maybe fire Mark an email and ask for the spec at least!

8 hours ago, Geek99 said:

I’ve never understood why someone selling or owning a 700£ bass from new wouldn’t think of putting a smear of Vaseline on those threads; I recall ages ago someone from limelight saying here at BC that screws seizing was an effect of the relic process. Why not unscrew the intonation screws or grub screws a bit when it’s freshly done and put some Vaseline on ? That’s a whole five minutes spent 

 

Absolutely, functionality should be key.   Personally I'd have kept the grub screws out if the relic process entirely, they hardly show so don't need to be aged anyway!

Also a new Limelight is  £1100 these days, so not exactly a budget bass.

Replacements are cheap but just a pain to have to do.

19 minutes ago, PaulThePlug said:

Order some from Spalding Fastners of the bay... A2 stainless so the new ones dont rust...Hex Head Grub Screws 3mm me thinks...go for Dog Point... Intonation screw may be 4mm... or do they fit all the holes only a couple of quid delivered... ive had 3 lots from them to replace saddle screws in cheapy bridges. Soak the oks saddles in plus gas or WD40 for a bit...

Thanks Paul - the intonation screw is the same size/thread as the grub screws.  Will order up some M3's and see if they fit 👍

Hi All,

I recently bought a second hand relic Limelight Jazz - absolutely love it. 

However where the bridge has been reliced and rusted, the grub screws have seized slightly in the saddles, and about half of the slotted heads have now broken during adjustment as they need a fair amount of force to turn, and so need replacement.  They are about 12mm long but no idea whether the are metric or imperial, and don't have suitable calipers to measure diameter.

Does anyone happen to know the likely spec of these, or how best to go about working out what thread the are?

Thanks!

Matt

Purchased in error and opened before I realised they were medium scale!

Totally unused and uncut, I opened up unwound the G and realised my mistake!

£30 posted in the UK

I just purchased a Purple Chilli Cab from Ed - really great guy - deal with confidence!!

Hello @edirelandbass

Sent you a PM about this last night, really interested but just need to check the dimensions, so if you could ping them over to me when you've got a mo that would be perfect.  Mike made a bass for me this year so would love a cab to match!

I'm just in Essex so not too far away.

Cheers!

Pm sent

4 hours ago, Paul S said:

I was in a band with a Detective Sergeant on drums for a couple of years.  It isn't the shifts that is the problem, you can plan around those.  It is the unforeseen, totally unpredictable, last minute 'having to stay on duty' stuff where the officer gets sent to a job towards the end of the shift and can't be relieved.  Unless you are unlucky it doesn't happen very often but when it does happen there is nothing that can be done about it.  Having deps lined up that can manage last minute availability would be the only way forward.  In our case she quit the band because she felt she was holding us back, which was a shame as she was a good drummer and a great laugh.

Very much this ^^

Had a couple of band mates years ago who joined the Met - neither of them felt they could hold down a band eventually as there was the constant risk of not getting away at the end of a shift if they made a difficult arrest late in the day, or we're having to secure a scene with no relief available etc etc

41 minutes ago, Downunderwonder said:

So long as your amp can do 400 clean watts into 8 ohms it wouldn't make a blind bit of difference.

7 hours ago, chris_b said:

 

I don't think you'll see much of a volume difference between 4 ohm and 8 ohm from your amp. More "headroom" is desirable when an amp is running out of steam. Your BB2 is only just ticking over at 400 watts.

5 minutes ago, Bill Fitzmaurice said:

That's a common misconception. You do get higher output per volt, but there's no such thing as a free lunch. You also lose current headroom in the amp. People tend to look at the higher amp power output into 4 ohms as opposed to 8 ohms and assume that's a good thing. It's not, because that higher power output is obtained at the cost of higher current draw.

I'm not going to pretend to understand the science behind this, but I'm just working off the basis of experience and advice given by Dave Green at Ashdown.

They've swapped out 8ohm for 4ohm speakers on two Combo's over the years, and both have had an increase in perceived and usable clean volume/headroom.  Maybe it's due to the drivers themselves, I don't know, but I was very happy with them.

However it's only really relevant to this if there was a 4ohm BB which there isn't, unless there was a general feeling that if I went for an AT212 slim that I should get an 8ohm so that I potentially have the option to use 2 further down the line!!  That could be interesting!!

2 hours ago, Stevie H said:

I part exchanged my Supertwin for the GR AT 212 slim. My main reasoning for the swap was that I needed to shave some size and weight but retain the power….which the GR does very well. However I’ve got to say that after playing about 6 gigs now with the GR it just sounds spectacular. The ST was obviously pretty great but the GR is just ‘better’ all round. The only slight issue is that I occasionally get the OD light come on now and again on my Mesa D800, and the limit light can flicker if you’ve got it really mega cranked in much larger venues with no PA support. This never happened with the ST, but quick fiddle with the gain and eq and you’re good to go with no issues. 

This is good to hear, certainly sounds a viable option then!

Hi All,

I currently have a Barefaced Big Twin 2, and a Big Baby 2.  Generally playing them with an RM800 these days, although will take my ABM600 sometimes

The Big Twin comes out when I play larger venues, and the Big Baby for smaller pubs and rehearsals.   I wish the BB was 4ohms though as it would give me a bit more headroom as a single cab.

I've been looking at GR cabs for a while now, and the AT212 slim seems to fit bang in between the BT and the BB spec and size wise and is available in 4ohm, and am considering whether to sell them and get the GR as a single cab solution.

Anyone used the GR who can advise on the pros/cons?

Cheers!

Bought a mooer pedal from Matthew - super smooth transaction - would deal with again!!

Sold a pedal to Rhys - fast payment, good Comms, nice guy - recommend!

Christ that's a lovely rig.  I don't need it but I want it!!  @binky_bass we'll have to get it down to Essex on some sort of time share arrangement 🤣

On 17/10/2021 at 20:31, SteveXFR said:

 

I get that. It seems like around here they'll say they want to play metal or punk and you get there it they want to play Nickelback and Sum41. Either that or they send a song list and you get there and THEY don't know the songs and the couple they do know they don't play the best bit because they can't play it.

Totally this ☝️.  Get so fed up of JMB most of the time - but then every so often a gem pops up.   Got into a decent busy pub band a few months back on there, and prior to lockdown I landed a spot in a tribute band that was a lot of fun for a while.  Probably 20 dead ends and 3 or 4 wasted evenings trying out for other bands to get those though.

Nice review, glad you are liking it!! 👍

So the original seller listed it as pending, and it's turned up again with another seller in Sudbury for £750.  Guessing they bought it cheaper and selling on at a profit.  Also selling for their Dad apparently.  Still listed as unplayed (buckle rash says otherwise), but more photos for those wondering about its preamp etc:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/620141369349375/

It was definitely passive as far as I could tell - no battery box to be seen!

Had a look and walked straight away sadly. Firstly it was fretless which the seller hasn't mentioned!  Not a deal breaker but not really that useful to me as I don't gig fretless much at all. Secondly it was far from immaculate - not terrible, but definitely used.  Action was also awful, but neck was straight so probably just needed lowering at the bridge.

Apparently the ladies Dad worked for Status and built basses for Rhino amongst others - had some photos of his previous builds.   Doesn't have any real info on the bass itself though or know about them (hence not knowing the difference between fretless and fretted!).  I forgot to check the serial number unfortunately or I could have checked myself.

Not for me, but if anyone else near Chelmsford is interested I can pass you the details!

9 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

That looks great, is it a S 3000 ?

No idea tbh.  I think it's passive with a bolt on neck if that helps?!  Hopefully will find out more when I see it.

They are asking £800.  I have no idea if that's good or not??