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shoulderpet

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Everything posted by shoulderpet

  1. shoulderpet
    Edit: Now £60, final price drop as this is a bargain at this price Harley Benton JB-75 for sale as I have a project on the go at the moment so trying to get rid of anything I am not using. Bass is in decent condition and sounds really good and is a real looker however the action is a little on the high side as there was some buzz on the G string (on the 1st or 2nd fret I think) so the action has been raised to counter this, if you like a low action then you may want to level the frets. The pickguard has been spray painted as I wanted a matt black, it came out more like a satin black, not a perfect job but looks decent. I have fitted a solderless loom with a series/parallel push/pull switch, I had to extend one of the wires slightly which looks a little messy but does not affect functionality and the series/parallel gives some good tonal options, the stock pickups are really good sounding pickups Collection from Croydon area, £60, I am working on a P bass build at the moment and have the neck sorted and need to sort the body so will consider a trade for a p bass body SOLD
  2. shoulderpet
    The Kent Armstrong will be much better, The KA hot P pickup is a good one
  3. shoulderpet
    Thanks for the replies, sounds like a truss rod access rout is the way to go
  4. shoulderpet
    Hi all I have just ordered the first part for my upcoming bass build, the neck. I hate satin finish necks and particularly if they are untinted pale maple and the only reasonably priced tinted gloss neck I could find has a heel access truss rod. I know sometimes with this type of neck you can just take off the pickguard to get to the truss rod but my Fender that has the same type of truss rod access I have to remove the whole neck. With this in mind I am anticipating having to shim the neck to raise it in the pocket so that I can adjust the truss rod without having to unscrew the neck. I would just like to raise the neck a bit without affecting the neck angle if possible, what is the best way to shim to achieve this? Thanks
  5. shoulderpet
    For me it depends how good the preamp is, a bad preamp can ruin a bass, also I don't get the point of 2 band preamps, why would anyone not want a midrange control on the preamp I don't currently own any active basses
  6. shoulderpet
    I did report this listing but I don't know if eBay did anything about it
  7. shoulderpet
    Was just about to post about this blatant fake, someone beat me to it. I'm not as well versed as some on Fenders but immediately I noticed that the headstock shape is wrong, the tuners are wrong, the bridge is wrong and that sloppy routing around the bridge pickup. The bidding is currently at £270 !!! Eek!!!
  8. shoulderpet
    The alnico Wilkinson is a great pickup, imo easily as good as the more expensive vintage voiced pickups out there,I use a Duncan SPB-2 nowadays because I like the midrange bark it gives but the Wilkinson is very good also Yeah I had a lightbulb moment regarding PJ basses, a lot of the more inexpensive ones have J pickups in the 4-5k range which means that as soon as you add in the J pickup your tone really thins out, your tone will get thinner anyway with the j pickup added in due to phase cancellation so if the bridge pickup is underpowered then it will be they noticeably thinner sounding.
  9. shoulderpet
    If it is the Alnico Wilkinson that is a really good pickup that way exceeds what you would expect from such an inexpensive pickup. Good call on replacing the J pickup, if it is anything like most stock j pickups on PJ basses then it is probably only wound to 4 or 5k which usually means the tone really thins out when the j pickup is on.
  10. shoulderpet
    Gig.ink is good
  11. shoulderpet
    Warman is another one I've been curious about, seeing how cheap they are I will have to get some and see how I like them
  12. shoulderpet
    Thanks, the more I look into this the more I am wondering if I should just buy a Fender neck and body rather than piece together components from different manufacturers and praying that they fit
  13. shoulderpet
    Thanks, I think I will get someone else to do that part for me then, fortunately one of the best luthiers/repairmen in the country is about a mile from where I live
  14. shoulderpet
    Always been curious about Bart's, one day I will get some
  15. shoulderpet
    Thanks for the replies all, am hoping someone with expy can chime in, I have seen this p bass body Gear4music p bass from Gear4music and the price is good and it seems to be finished already but the neck pocket is only 61mm wide, the neck I am looking at fitting is 63.4mm so I think realistically to get the neck to fit I am probably looking at widening the neck pocket 3-4mm, is it going to be difficult to widen the pocket this much, am I letting myself in for a major ball ache if I purchase this p bass body and have to widen the neck pocket that much ?
  16. shoulderpet
    Thanks for the replies, very helpful Another thing I have noticed that is odd is that most of the aftermarket p bass bodies have 61 or 62mn neck pockets but most p bass necks have a heel width of 63 or 64mm, what gives?
  17. shoulderpet
    Am thinking of putting together a parts p bass and have seen unfinished p bass bodies with no finish at all applied to the wood for dirt cheap. I know with bass necks they need to be finished to keep out moisture etc, what about bass bodies? Can you get away with not finishing them? I was thinking of getting an unfinished body and just applying some wax or similar to prevent it from getting grubby I live in a very small studio flat and don't have a garage, shed or workshop to do finishes That being said I suppose I could finish in a clear varnish and do one side of the body at a time
  18. shoulderpet
    I love metal but don't know a lot of Doom metal but I would say this song is essential listening [YouTube]
  19. shoulderpet
    Honestly I would invest the money in a refret, maybe stainless steel frets, might not be worth it on a cheap bass but on an American Standard I think it is worth it
  20. shoulderpet
    I've gone the opposite way, I used to love flats and I would use them and very occasionally tapewounds but I find that most bass amps are eq'd to be very bass heavy with much less emphasis on mids and treble even with flat eq and the flats made this even more apparent, add to this that I enjoy the occasional open mic/jam night where you are pretty much stuck with however the host has there amp eq'd
  21. shoulderpet
    +1 to this, I use stainless rounds and change them once a month
  22. shoulderpet
    Very interesting thread, have never played a P/P setup but would love to, have just recently wired my p bass in parallel and quite liking the tone, the p pickup is a Duncan SPB-2 which sounds good in parallel as it's DC resistance is around 22k so it still sounds pretty meaty in parallel
  23. shoulderpet
    Tone when detuning is such a strange thing, I tried a 105 Roto bass also and it was ok but there was a definite degradation in the tone compared to my 95-40 Rotos tuned to E, even more oddly the 95 gauge E sounded better in D than the 105 E, the 105 E sounded great in E standard btw.
  24. shoulderpet
    Yes ...imo
  25. shoulderpet
    You don't need enough low end to make people s!!t themselves, the amount of bands I have seen where the bass is just a subsonic rumble with no definition. Guitarists who boost there low end should be beaten with the item guitars, the amount of times I have played music with guitar players who seem to think the guitar should have as much low end as the bass. Satin necks are awful, dreadful things and even worse when they are that awful deathly pale shade A £500 bass is essentially a £250 bass with very marginally better quality control Fender player series basses are pretty much £250 Squiers with a Fender logo
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