TG Flatline
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[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1326720941' post='1500920'] All built & working. Pics to prove it! Signal goes Bass into Black Router, send to OC-3 > Bass Murf. Left out from Murf (Notched at 160, 350 & 775 Hz only) into SDS-2 & into the return on BR. BR out goes to the CE-2 > MF-101 & then into C1 on mix section on BR. Right out from Bass Murf goes straight to C2 on BR mix (only frequencies below 110 Hz & a 240 Hz notch goes to this channel) & then both channels mixed together. When engaged the CE-2 & LPF only affect the looped signal (so all sub is clean). When not engaged, it's a clean sound straight into the CE-2 & LPF. Proper band test tonight! Sound clips to follow! [/quote] Love it! You get the desired affect? [quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1326741221' post='1501402'] Cheers Tom, gone down the dymo label route for the time being as the pedal is working and I don't want to dismantle it unnecessarily. Something to bear in mind for the future if I can find an image the right size. [/quote] Sweet. How you finding the compressor? I'm building a Ross clone at the minute with a few mods for Bass so interested to know!
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[quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1326647826' post='1499898'] Does anyone know how you'd go about doing a simple cover for an effects pedal like the Deviever pedals? I guess a simple design printed off onto regular paper but I'm not sure what to stick it to the metal or sealing/lacquer it with. [/quote] Glossy and Matte photo papers both work well and I've got decent results with both. I've tried a variety of glues and you know what worked better than anything? A well sanded box and Pritt-Stick. Not kidding, goddam Pritt-Stick. A thin coating on the box and a thin coating on the paper and you're laughing. Smooth it out gently with a credit card. There will be better ways, I'm sure, but that works well for me. Plastikote Super Clear does a decent job over the top, just make sure you get your coats numerous and uber-thin. Fewer but thicker coats just don't look as good.
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[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1326480147' post='1497896'] [s]Fixed it! Pics coming soon.[/s] Nope, I haven't! Buzzes like a big fridge. Any ideas anyone? It's fine 1 channel at a time, but the minute I put 2 ins. BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ!!!!! I'll have a mess about after work tomorrow. [/quote] Sorry for the late reply. Where have you got your grounds tied to? Also, have you shielded the ABS box? Start there and then worry about what you've got going into each input!
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The short leg of the LED goes to ground, the LED is also flat on the side where the short leg is (in case you've clipped the legs!)
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[url="http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music/typeproducts.asp?groupID=4748"]http://www.flightcasewarehouse.co.uk/music/typeproducts.asp?groupID=4748[/url] I've got the medium size, pic below for scale, you may need the large looking at what you're going to put on there. It's basically a flightcase with a board of wood in to put your pedals onto. Put some brackets under the board (there is plenty of room) and you can keep wires tidy underneath, plus it's a flightcase so you're not going to destroy your pedals in transit and what not... I'm re-doing mine at the minute and things like power supply, wireless and thumpinator are going to go under the board, that's the kind of space you get. Definitely worth a look! [IMG]http://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j6/tgflatline/PedalBoard.jpg[/IMG] Another option, if you don't mind a bit of DIY, is to go on ebay, find a flightcase around about the size you're after (make sure you get enough depth!!) and then use a board of wood for your pedalboard. stick rubber feet on the flightcase and you've essentially got the same for less dosh.
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[quote name='xgsjx' timestamp='1326368276' post='1496047'] Well I started my pedal project last night. Spent ages determining where it's going on the board & laying it out & now have my 1st problem. I haven't tried the loop yet & the mixer section isn't wired as yet, but I plugged the power in (all it does is power an LED), but the LED didn't work. & how do you know what pin 1 is on a 3PDT, or is pin 1 & pin 9 the same? Here's the schematic for the looper section... [url="http://experimentalistsanonymous.com/diy/Schematics/Buffers%20Switchers%20Mixers%20and%20Routers/TB%20with%20LED%20and%20volume.gif"]http://experimentali...nd%20volume.gif[/url] & here's some pics of what I've done so far... [media]http://www.flickr.com/photos/xgsjx/sets/72157628835174847/[/media] [/quote] Difficult to see from the pictures, but first thing to check is polarity of LED and DC jack. Your switch looks correct.
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Hi Bamboscha, still for sale, have bitten the bullet and am going to let her go so this is no longer a feeler! -
I use an Echo Base I built myself. It's an "Analog-voiced" digital delay with modulation for the echoes. I only need a sparing amount of delay and being able to modulate it a bit is a nice touch for chorussy sounds, I've got the modulation on a second footswitch so I have the option.
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[quote name='GarethFlatlands' timestamp='1325610832' post='1485180'] How much did it set you back Tom? [/quote] You have a PM my lad!
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Jack 15 (2515 driver, no tweets) in Sheffield, just outside the centre. Only just picked it up (I haven't the time or tools to do it myself!) and giving it a running in, but by the weekend it will be in our rehearsal room and people are welcome to have a crack if they want.
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Possible daft question - are you getting the hiss with the pedals bypassed, or just with them engaged? Just worth considering whether the hiss is coming from your bass, or alternatively if you've got power and signal cables running side by side rather than perpendicular, as well as the suggestions above... Another thing, get the TU-2 out of your chain and see if you get any improvement. I found in my rig it dulled the tone, not just taking some high-end, just killed the sound and added hiss. I have mine on an A/B switch and my rig sounds better both with effects on and bypassed. Google "Fulltone AB switcher" and grab your tools if it sounds better without the tuner! Other people don't have this issue, but I've heard many complain about it in the same way.
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It says it's a full 34" scale length, looking where the bridge is the body must be massive! The case for my explorer (link in my sig) is big, and that's with a down-sized explorer body with the bridge right at the back. Don't get me wrong, I do like the Gibson version, but I'd bet gigging with it would be difficult on transport space!
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I insure but I can understand why some people don't. On Musicguard your gear isn't insured in transit unless it's flightcased. That's one reason that puts some of my mates off, but also something that you might not see unless you really go over the policy details (which, let's face it, you should if you are buying the insurance). My view on it is that if I never have to claim on the insurance then it's only cost me a bit of money, but I take anywhere between £2k-£3k's worth of gear to a gig and if it gets nicked and I'm not insured, what would I do? Apart from pimp out my wife to replace the gear...
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[quote name='Al Heeley' timestamp='1324566125' post='1475683'] OK here's mark III, uses a bicolor LED with common ANODE centre leg. 6.2V zener diode, 2 general purpose npn transistors such as 2n3904. Just double check the leg config if you're using a different type. One side of the LED will light up when the battery volts are above 6.9V, the other side lights up when battery volts fall below 6.9V. Get yourself a green/red bicolor LED and you are in business. Shove a small push-to-make test button on after the battery then you can quickly check your battery status between songs or gigs. [url="http://www.flickr.com/photos/alheeley/6554306733/"][/url] [/quote] Nice!
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Having a bit of a clearout as all my board is either replaced or about to be replaced by my own builds. The Big Muff, Small Stone and Octave have been permanent fixtures on my board since buying each of them, all of them tied to the board and with jacks permanently engaged so no constant plugging and unplugging eating at the sockets. The board is flightcased and though they've been gigged they have all been looked after. [s][b]Electro-Harmonix Bass Big Muff - £35 Posted[/b][/s][b]- [color=#ff0000]SOLD[/color][/b] With box (a bit tatty to be honest) but no manual. [s][b]Electro-Harmonix Small Stone Nano - £35 Posted[/b][/s][b] - [color=#ff0000]SOLD[/color][/b] With box in excellent condition along with manual and all the marketing nonsense EHX throw in with their new pedals. [b]MXR Bass Octave Deluxe M288 - £85 Posted - [color=#0000ff]ON HOLD PENDING PAYMENT[/color][/b] Same as the Small Stone, box in excellent condition with manual and "buy more MXR" literature. [b][s]Electro-Harmonix Nano Clone - £15 Posted[/s] - [color=#ff0000]SOLD[/color][/b] Bought this second-hand on an impulse and haven't used it beyond testing it works. It is a centre-positive effect so didn't really suit my pedalboard (LEAN!) and wasn't the kind of chorus I was after. Would make a decent cheap chorus for someone though and it makes sense for someone to get some use out of it. There's a bit of glue left over on the bottom from where the last guy attached velcro but other than that is in decent but used nick. No box or manual. [s][b]Boss GEB-7 - £35 Posted[/b][/s][b] - [color=#ff0000]SOLD[/color][/b] Bought new and never used beyond a couple of test runs. Comes with box and manual in great condition. -
Ashdown ABM 410 For Sale - SOLD
TG Flatline replied to TG Flatline's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
[b]SOLD[/b] -
Ashdown ABM 410 For Sale - SOLD
TG Flatline replied to TG Flatline's topic in Amps and Cabs For Sale
Bump for price drop! -
[i][quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1323169745' post='1459956'] +1 It's all down to using the right earplugs. If you use cheap foam jobbies (such as I used to use at track days) then they protect your ears from [i][b]loudness [/b][/i]... they do absolutely nothing to help you hear things. If you use ER20's (or, for considerably more money, ER15's or ER25's which are moulded precisely to your ears) then not only are your ears protected but you can still hear everything. [/quote][/i] Quite. I plan on having some shade of hearing when I'm 30 so I use plugs all the time. Both our guitarists refuse to use plugs, and both are pretty much deaf in their upper ranges at least. They too say they miss the "feel" of not having plugs in, but having worn plugs for the last year or so and gotten used to it (that happened very quickly) there's no way I'd go back to not using plugs. Added bonus, it's nice to wake up the morning after a gig and not think the fire alarm is going off...
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[quote name='LawrenceH' timestamp='1322770769' post='1455765'] Tasty redhead! The bass with matching headstock, that is ...I have a black one of these and it is superb, but now I want a red one. [/quote] That's what I said a few years ago, except there wasn't some ginger numpty molesting it
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[b]ON HOLD[/b] Don't really want to sell this but there are other things that need purchasing, so..... It's a Red Fender Aerodyne Jazz with "smoked" black hardware, no scratchplate, carved top and cream binding. Sounds mega. I bought this on ebay about 4 or 5 years ago because I hadn't seen another one in that colour ever and I realised I must have it. Obviously you can get the scratchplate models in red, but these ones were almost exclusively black in this country from what I can tell (though do tell me if I'm wrong!). [b]Bad bits: [/b]It has a couple of headstock dings, purely cosmetic, and also a ding just above the neck pickup that is about 3/4 inch long, again just cosmetic but certainly of note. This ding is just about visible on the photo attached. The hardware has suffered from me sweating all over it at gigs over the past few years as well, and is worn as such. There's a bit of buckle rash but nothing worth crying about really. Sonically it is ace, and I always had compliments both live and in the studio. Included will be a hardcase, a new set of .50-1.10 Rotosound Swing Bass, and the schaller strap locks attached to it. [s]Like I said, it's a feeler at the minute and I wouldn't just sell it for anything, so the price on this is [b]£600[/b][/s] [s]This is now for sale - [b]£500[/b][/s] [color=#000080][b]Price drop - £450[/b][/color] More photos to follow, in the mean time you can enjoy a picture of her in the hands of a handsome man
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On hold...
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[quote name='oldslapper' timestamp='1322684384' post='1454579'] I have the money for these, but not the wherewithal to transport them 225 miles south!! V. Annoying. [/quote] Surely you know that Sheffield is a wonderful place to holiday this time of year? I know it's not exactly on your doorstep, but I'm heading to North London at the end of the month if that makes things any easier?
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[quote name='Etienne' timestamp='1322592982' post='1453324'] Hey, I recognise these! Both used to be mine a good few years ago now- they've still even got the little marker arrows I stuck on the control plates at the time... good luck with the sale! [/quote] Cheers, those are they! They've done me a grand job too
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[quote name='bartelby' timestamp='1321188790' post='1436195'] I have a twin loop pedal, but I want to modify it to have a simple blend (more like a volume control actually) on each loop. My idea is to: add a wire from 'A' to 'B' to keep a dry signal (possibly with a kill switch) Add vol pots to the loop returns 'C' & 'D' Would this work? [/quote] I wouldn't advise doing it that way. It may work, but you'd be better off building a small active circuit to achieve what you're after. I'd suggest Googling the "bass paralooper" by Moosapotomous (I think that's his name), and the "B Blender" by Sean M. Both of those circuits are very simple to make and should give you what you want. Do a bit more googling on the Paralooper and you'll see how you can use filters to achieve decent results too - I'm literally at the start of a project putting a Paralooper and a Big Muff in the same box (with the BM in place of the loop on the Paralooper), and will be using a variable Low Pass on the clean and a variable High Pass on the BM. Plan is to be able to get Big Muff sound but still retain the low end. It's probably overkill on my part, but worth a go. I have a Bass Big Muff you see, and would like a more usable blend mode, so rather than mod that pedal it's easier to just build my own. Good luck with your project, you might find more help available over at the DIYstompboxes forum, and it's certainly a good place to read up about anything you're going to try, as chances are someone else will have tried (and failed!) previously and will give you an insight on things to do/not do etc.
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These are still for sale - [b]£200 for the pair[/b]