Jump to content
Why become a member? ×

scrumpymike

⭐Supporting Member⭐
  • Posts

    2,391
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Everything posted by scrumpymike

  1. Thanks for the update Rich, which reminded me that I've not listed anything yet! Looks like it will be: Andy Rogers custom 'Rascal Mervyn Lite'; Vox Starstream A2S; HB MV-4MSB Gotoh; Gillett Contour; Mesa Subway TT-800; Ampeg SVT-7 PRO; LFSys Monaco; BF SC3.
  2. Just sold my EBMM short-scale Stingray to Richard. Although it was the first Basschat transaction of this relatively new member, it could not have gone better, with the bass paid for and collected less than 48 hours after posting my FS ad. Please look after our new Basschat buddy, I know he'll do the same for you 🙂
  3. NOW SOLD!! These basses are superb and this example is an absolute beaut! It comes with its original-equipment MM case, OE passive electronics package and a new set of OE Ernie Ball strings. The John East upgrade has received lots of praise on Basschat and elsewhere. In my opinion, it takes the excellent s-s Ray to an even higher level. Condition-wise, there is a flaw in the chrome plating next to the top R-H control-panel fixing screw (see last close-up pic), but that's all. It's exaggerated in the pic but barely noticeable to the eye. Price excludes delivery but I'll be happy to pack for collection (if buyer arranges and pays for courier) or hand over at a mutually convenient spot along the M5 Bristol-Exeter stretch (I'm 10 min's from J25). Alternatively, could deliver on Friday June 9th en-route from Taunton to Harwich. https://www.music-man.com/instruments/basses/short-scale-stingray
  4. Just a brief update on my Vox Starstream A2S. My last posts showed the mods I did to change the strap-button mounts to accept Schaller locks. I also mentioned that I was considering moving the top button to the F12 'sweet spot' to optimise the strap balance. I've now got round to doing that and realise that the 'sweet spot' for this bass is actually F11. So the clumsy first-off alu extension bracket pictured below will be replaced by a slightly longer final version (probably in the form of a plate extending the top blade) that will also incorporate the 'star-stream' theme in its design to make a feature of it. If it ends up making the bass look naff, everything is quickly reversible as the two original mounting points are used. In that case, I'll happily live with the very slight neck-dive. If you haven't already fallen asleep, watch this space! 😊 Btw, now I've lived with this bass for a while, I can absolutely confirm my first impressions that it is of exceptionally high quality in every respect. My mods are by no means essential, I just can't resist the temptation to tweak stuff.
  5. Can't disagree with much of the above re specific recommendations but would like to add a few general comments: If strap balance is important to you (as it is to me and many others), choose a bass that has the top strap button at the F12 'sweet spot' to avoid neck dive. If you want easy reach to the far end of the fret-board, choose a bass where the string saddles are close to the bottom edge of the body. Be aware that the neck width at the nut can vary on s-s basses between 36mm and 40mm-plus and see if you can try different widths and profiles. Measure up the old gypsy rose as a bench-mark first. Re the Vox Starstream, there's been negative feedback on here about the lower-priced version (original RRP around £500). I tried one and returned it in favour of the more expensive Artist version (original RRP around £1400). Quality-wise, this bass is in a completely different league than the cheaper version and mine (the twin-pickup A2S) is one of the best s-s basses I've ever played with a good tonal range from the active Aguilar vintage pickups. These ended up being discounted to £799 to clear remaining stock, so you could get a used one (if you can find one) for around half your budget. Last but by no means least, think very carefully before you go for anything that looks a bit quirky. The bass guitar market is very conservative and 'P/J-centric', so that's what your band-mates (and even audiences) may be more comfortable with. All things considered, I'd go for a good, used Sandberg Lionel or a Maruszczyk Jake or Elwood - according to taste. I've owned and gigged all three and you won't go wrong with any of them.
  6. Hi John, only just seen your message. I'll see if I can find the paper receipt tomorrow. Our local (Taunton) guitar shop got it in for me but sadly went out of business during the covid pandemic. IIRC it was £98.
  7. I had one and IIRC it was a good fit in my Gator Fender Jag case, which seemed to fit every s-s bass I've ever had. I'll post a pic with dim's when I get a minute.
  8. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  9. I already thought this through and realise that the extended reach to F1 and possible neck dive are potential issues for me. If they do turn out to be problems but I like everything else about the bass, my plan is to rout a pocket into the the back of the body to accept a flush-mounted strap-lock socket set into the left wall of the cavity. The repositioned strap mount would then be located between the OE bottom strap button and the thru-body string anchors, as close to the anchors as possible.
  10. The Saffire will definitely be chunkier (43mm nut width) and heavier. I've messaged about the weight but not had a reply yet.
  11. Thanks for the heads-up, very interesting! My first bass was a blue Watkins Rapier bought new circa 1966 for around 30 quid. I'm tempted by this one...
  12. I can vouch for the excellent gig performance of my back-up R-400 through 2 x SC3s, so no hesitation in recommending the BF cabs for your WB-100. However, I've now replaced one of my SC3s with a (FRFR) LFSys Monaco - the best cab I've ever played through and designed/built/sold by BC member Stevie. I'm keeping one SC3 for back-up and bigger gigs but so far the 600W-rated Monaco is all I've needed to use with my main 800W gig amp (a Mesa Subway TT-800). Doing what I've done will set you back a reasonable £795 for a new Monaco and around £450 for a used SC3 in A1 condition.
  13. Had one of the earlier pre-Chowny SWB-1 fretless basses and liked it except for neck dive. Balance may have improved now I believe Chowny bodies are slightly heavier.
  14. Mrs Scrumpy and I have just lobbed a tenner in your direction, so only £34 short 🙂 Now then, about your attendance at this year's Bash... 😉
  15. Yep, that's had a bash on the strap button alright. Provided you're otherwise 100% happy with the bass, I'd unscrew/remove the button first and if no damage to the wood. Then send this pic to Thomann saying you don't consider it's worth full RRP as received but you may keep it if they refund the difference between A and B stock value. In my experience, their after-sales support is excellent.
  16. OK, you'll get first refusal when/if I do.
  17. Thanks Dave. I see the WB-100 has 2 spkr output sockets, 1 x 40hm and 1 x 8ohm. Does this somehow boost the power the amp delivers into a single 8ohm cab?
  18. So here's a question for you. My gig cab is a LFSys Monaco that's rated at 600W and it's an absolute keeper. Amp-wise I have a Mesa Subway TT-800 which just about delivers the volume I need for my classic-rock covers band through the 8ohm cab in the larger venues we play. I'm tempted to sell my R-400 and get a WB-100 but what volume levels am I likely to get from the 120W all-valver relative to my TT-800?
  19. I've seen this bass and can say it looks EVEN MORE stunning in reality. ACG + BCH = buy with complete confidence!
  20. These tick most of my boxes. I've often looked at them and been tempted but never got any further than that. Bill W did gig the bass with the RKs, at least for a while. Strap balance could be a problem given the position of the lower button. Don't know exactly where it is but it's certainly not at F12.
×
×
  • Create New...