xilddx

I take no backups of anything except a spare set of strings and a small tool kit. But I haven't broken a string for well over ten years. My Warwick Corvettes are super reliable, and my POD X3 LIVE seems to be too. I don't even take spare cables anymore since I got my OBBM BUT, if you take this approach, you need to look after your equipment. I'm as minimalist as I can possibly be, and still sound bigger than the guy with the SVT

[quote name='chaypup' post='1010070' date='Nov 2 2010, 09:32 PM']Thanks for the replies. I've been playing for 6 years but had a break for a few months whilst I travelled. Since coming back I've got right back into it with various projects and am playing between 1hour and 6 hours a day. However my hand was ok until I started learning a load of ska songs which are all down the bottom end of the neck so maybe that's it No history of injury with the hand or anything like that. [b]Don't want to rest it too much as I have a load of songs to learn for gigs coming up![/b] Cheers! [/quote] If you don't rest it, you won't be much use on those gigs. As said already, NEVER play through the pain, that only applies to muscle building exercise where you want to break the muscle down. You absolutely need to rest it until whatever damage you have done recovers. If it is damage, such as tiny tears to the tendons or ligaments, or inflammation in the soft tissues which are putting pressure on some of the the nerves in your hand (which is what it sounds like), you NEED TO REST AND RECOVER. If you don't the damage will not heal, the inflammation will increase, and you run the risk of it becoming a chronic problem, which you DO NOT WANT. I think you have gone straight back to bass and not built up the supporting muscle strength and may also have bad hand and body posture. I won't go on because Essex is an expert in this field and can help you way beyond what I can. Listen to him and follow his advice. Good luck.

[quote name='7string' post='1010242' date='Nov 3 2010, 12:28 AM']Looks like it's been a labour of love. Many congrats [/quote] It certainly has, and I love the result. Thank you

[quote name='charic' post='1010340' date='Nov 3 2010, 08:14 AM']Am I the only person not to find Mighty Boosh amusing?[/quote] No, you are not. In fact, that is the part of the evening we should meet up for a beer and a chat

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='1009403' date='Nov 2 2010, 10:46 AM']Just ordered a yellow set for the black Graft. Ostentatious, moi? [/quote] Cool! We will get labelled as tarts, but do I care?

[quote name='Bottle' post='1009436' date='Nov 2 2010, 11:28 AM']Nice job there, fella Like the pickup arrangement - those MEC pups look the dog's danglies (BTW, is the MM style pup 2-wire or 4-wire i.e. do you have it coil-tapped? Just wondering how easy it would be for me to retro-fit one into a project bass) How are you getting on with the East Pre? Take care. Hope to see you at the SE bash in a few weeks Ian[/quote] Hello mate. Yep, four wire. Not tapped, the East does everything I need it to I reckon so it's just the hot and cold going into it. I haven't got the bass set up yet as I'm waiting for a bridge part from Hipshot. Then I will give it the ful works and stick a review on here. I've only had a quick play with the East hile checking it all works and I wired it correctly. But it sounds amazingly versatile. Can't wait to get the bass fully sorted. Cheers.

I'll be there too!

[quote name='BottomEndian' post='1007739' date='Oct 31 2010, 07:47 PM']Link to supplier, please![/quote] Guitarsuperhero in the States [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290492463484"]http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=290492463484[/url] About £20 inc. shipping. They're a really good store, very quick delivery. Bargain price too. They'll want about £50 in Denmark Street and not much less at Stringbusters I shouldn't think.

[quote name='steve-soar' post='1008922' date='Nov 1 2010, 07:49 PM']Has anybody heared the "Swans In Flight" album yet?[/quote] I heard some of it last year. It was rank to be frank. Really soupy, contrived, over-produced pointlessness. But I hated the self promotion through the mag so I didn't really want to like it.

[quote name='daz' post='1007858' date='Oct 31 2010, 09:15 PM']Man thats slack, too slack. I didnt catch the 'crafted in Japan' pic, though i have only read it through once whilst walking back from town. But they should have seen it surely.[/quote] Amazing isn't it. These people are supposed to be experts.

[quote name='paul h' post='1007675' date='Oct 31 2010, 06:47 PM']I use a 150mm steel rule. I also have a 600mm one for checking overall level, a fret rocker and a fret levelling/dressing kit. All off ebay and all dirt cheap and perfectly fine.[/quote] The fret rocker is a VERY useful bit of kit.

[quote name='arthurhenry' post='1007461' date='Oct 31 2010, 03:36 PM']"Lefty loosey, righty tighty" only applies if the adjustment nut is at the heel of the neck. If it's at the headstock, it's the other way around![/quote] You're wrong. Sorry.

Although this is everything I wouldn't want to be seen with, but that's just my own personal taste, it looks incredible! It's a gorgeous bit of wood! I really wish I liked basses like this sometimes

[quote name='daz' post='1007364' date='Oct 31 2010, 02:16 PM']Oh right i guess we misunderstood each other then. Why i need it is because I'm something of a beginner, not yet quite a year has gone by since i picked up the bass. Well i don't actually know what a low or high action would sound or feel like. If someone asked me what my own string height was i wouldn't really have a clue, beyond "high ish". So id like to set up my bass exactly where it feels best and then see what the measurements are. I spose what I'm saying is i just need to know these things. I'm the same when i get into anything at first. I'm not comfortable till i know it inside out.[/quote] Ah, right. You REALLY don't need one of these mate! Can you do a set up, playing with the truss rod? If you can then all you need are tools to adjust the truss rod and the bridge saddles, and possibly a capo to check for the right neck relief. The best action is the one you are comfortable with. Medium low is about 2mm at the 12th on the E string (space between top of fret and bottom of E string), but it all depends on the bass itself. Every neck is a little different and behave differently when setting the relief with the truss rod. You sound like you need to get it set up professionally at the moment. I hope that helps. EDIT: there are many set up guides out there so have a look, and of course many experts on here too. Tune the bass to concert pitch, or whatever tuning you normally use, Drop D perhaps. Use the [u]proper[/u] tools for the following: The first thing to do is check the neck relief (a gentle bow in the neck to compensate for the string amplitude while vibrating). You fret your E string at the 1st fret and also at the 12th. There should be a small gap of between 1/2 or 1/4 mm between the string and fret around the 7th fret. If it is a big gap, you need to [b]tighten the truss rod[/b] a little - no more than a quarter turn at a time then re-check. If there is a Rizla paper gap, or no gap, then [b]loosen the truss rod[/b] a little - no more than a quarter turn at a time then re-check. [i]Turn the truss rod adjuster accordingly - [b]Lefty Loosey[/b], [b]Righty Tighty[/b].[/i] The truss rod creates a counter-tension to the tuned strings to keep the neck correctly profiled, so it doesn't look like a bunch of bananas. Then adjust height at the saddles so you can get the lowest comfortable action with little or no fret buzz, a little buzz is not a problem. Check for buzz or chokes all the way up the neck and adjust height accordingly until fretting at each fret produces a clear note with almost no buzz when plucked with you normal strength. Do this for each string. Then you should be close to about right. It may settle in overnight and buzz a little more than before, so re-adjust if necessary. NOTE: If the truss rod is very hard to turn, don't force it! Take it to a pro.

[quote name='daz' post='1007336' date='Oct 31 2010, 01:54 PM']I wouldn't trust myself to accurately mark off the quarter millimeter intervals (or the sixty fourths of an inch either) The reason i want one is that it gives a guarantee of measurement accuracy.[/quote] Why would you want that accuracy is what I meant. Unless you were asked to set up a bass by someone else, or have to set up your own bass each time you change strings to the micro-millimetre.

I don't know about the UK, but just order one from StewMac. I got a whole fretting kit from them, no hassle. Lord knows why you'd want one of these gauges though. And if you do, you could make one easily.

He he I have just ordered some DR Neon strings in orange

[quote name='Marvin' post='1006818' date='Oct 30 2010, 10:32 PM']Certainly does surprise one how much a self build can actually cost. I'm currently slowly, and I stress slowly, building a BFM Jack10 - uh pay attention OP I know it's a cab but you know - and initially and naively I thought "this will come in well under £200, say £160". How wrong. It'll probably be around the £270ish mark. But like yourself silddx I want the best, so I've gone for the Baltic Birch ply as suggested which isn't cheap and I'll put the premium driver in. Just wish I had the time to get it finished quicker. As an aside, when we list down the cost of individual bits of a build why does it never look like it'll come out to as much as it actually does. Your list of parts for instance does look at first glance as if it would come out to over £1000. Looks like a quality job mate. Be chuffed you deserve to be.[/quote] Hehe, it's funny, initially, I wanted this bass to cost me very little. I though I could scavenge the Rockbass, get the body for low cost and put it together. But as I lived with the idea for a couple of months while the body was being made, my aspirations rose rather steeply and so did the cost. It was a completely runaway reaction, nothing I could do about it Have you got a build thread for your cab mate?

[quote name='bumnote' post='1007092' date='Oct 31 2010, 10:32 AM']Not at all, I didnt look at the costs, I just thought what a great bass[/quote] Thank you!

I love Dankworth's score for Gangster No1. It's wonderful.

[quote name='pantherairsoft' post='1006585' date='Oct 30 2010, 07:06 PM']I'd Defo neg him and walk away. Your not going to get the item, he's made that clear. Sucks, but the moneys better spent here on Basschat [/quote] Yip, that's what I'd do too.

The giblets ..

Some people have absolutely no common sense have they

[quote name='daz' post='1006683' date='Oct 30 2010, 08:43 PM']Just mailed a post at the magazine forum, so hopefully the matter of the Kilos or pounds will be confirmed one way or the other before too long.[/quote] Good stuff mate. Although a bit pointless because I know I must be right and everyone should believe me

[quote name='bobpalt' post='1006236' date='Oct 30 2010, 01:03 PM']SoundsLive think it weighs 12kg as well. Maybe it does? Our Price £1,119.00 Manufacturer SKU: YAM-BB1024XBL Soundslive ID: 13753 Weight: 12 kg[/quote] I cannot conceive that a bass made of standard materials and construction can possibly weigh in a 26lbs! I did play a horrible '70s Fender Jazz that was about 16lbs once, believe me, that thing felt so heavy as to be almost ungiggable. 12lbs is very heavy for a bass so I reckon all these people are wrong, and I'm right