Gottastopbuyinggear

I bought a Fender pick guard made for an American Jazz (with notch for truss rod adjuster) and it fits perfectly on my 2007 MIM Jazz - all the screw holes align. In fact, coupled with a new control plate (I wanted a second one, wired for blend rather than VVT) it seems to fit better than the original where the two meet

Used this at a practice last night. GK MB200 just a shade over 12:00 on the gain, bass between 10:00 and 11:00, Lo Mid at 14:00, Hi Mid at 13:00, Treble between 09:00 and 10:00 (allegedly flat on the MB200 would be 10:00, 13:00, 14:00, 10:00). Played a MIM standard Precision with flats, with tone variously between full on and rolled about half way off. I have to say that to my ears it sounded great. Bearing in mind that I don't like a lot of highs in my sound it seems to have a pretty even response across the entire range to me, possibly losing a tiny bit of volume low down on the E string, but I suspect that may be coming from the bass (and maybe my ears) a bit too. To put that in context, we play Been Down So Long by The Doors, and CCR's Fortunate Son, and there was plenty enough ooomph on the low E's, F's and G's in those two. Heading up the fretboard, Crosstown Traffic played across all strings up around the 8th and 10th frets didn't suffer from the issue I have when using the Markbass 2x10 (traveler) which always seems very boomy around those frets on the A string in particular. On the whole it's definitely nowhere near as forward in the mids than the Markbass, which is exactly what I wanted. Another good indicator was that I didn't do any tone tweaking on the amp during the evening, and whereas I've been using a VT Bass to try and get a better sound for some songs (and not really succeeding much of the time), the only change I made was using the tone on the bass. I'll try it next week with my Jazz, which has a bit of a stronger low end, and with which I've had a bit more success with when played through the Markbass. I suspect that the combination of mid prominent Precision plus mid prominent Markbass has been a big part of the problem I've been having (and add to that my inexperience), but I'm really chuffed with the sound I got last night. A couple of other observations - I turned down just a smidgen towards the end of the evening, which may have been the drummer getting tired, or may have been that I was too loud to start, but I wondered if that could have been the speaker moving towards it's expected efficiency as it breaks in? I couldn't detect any significant panel vibrations, though I can't have been giving it more than a fraction of the 300W odd that it should (according to Phil's original design criteria!) be able to handle. In summary, pleased as punch! Edit: Almost forgot, I really can't see me actually needing a second one of these anytime soon. But as I've said before, since when has "need" got anything to do with it!

Phil, this is completely based on the dimensions in the diagram that Ghost_Bass's posted (#554) over on your design thread, so should be identical in dimensions to the 18mm ply cab you built. I've perhaps gone slightly more belt-and-braces than you in that the rear panel is battened, and there's no bracing in it yet, but apart from that it should be pretty much identical. Port tubes are 190mm. Weighs in at 13.5 Kg - not sure how that compares to yours, but I'd assume it would be pretty similar barring any differences in the ply density. I'm more than happy for you to point people over at this thread, though whether they'll get an unbiased view is a different matter - it may be your design, but it's my build and I'm proud of it! Seriously, though, neither of my bands are gigging yet (though I sincerely hope that at least one of them is well on the way there) so it'll be a fairly small audience. Also, I don't consider myself to have a particularly discerning ear. Having said that, I know what I don't like about my Markbass cab (which was one of the original triggers for building a cab - I was originally thinking of starting with a 2x10...) so I'll be able to give my view on how it compares, and I'll also be able to compare to my Ampeg PF115HE.

Made some good progress last weekend and this. Three coats of Tuff Cab, left to cure for a few days: [url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0472_zpss8ep0oxd.jpg.html"][/url] Hardware attached: [url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0476_zpshjrsofot.jpg.html"][/url] And all of a sudden I appear to have a cab! [url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0477_zpsteeegkbt.jpg.html"][/url] I've used a hot glue gun to secure the ports for the moment (thanks for the idea, ColinB), and haven't braced or added any acoustic wadding yet, but couldn't resist putting it all together and giving it a quick try. Baffle is screwed in (stating the obvious) but with gasket tape around the edges where it meets the battens. First impressions - I'm extremely pleased, and to my ears it sounds excellent. Pretty sure there are no leaks, and I doubt if there are any rattles or buzzes attributable to the cab itself, but I did get quite a lot of stuff in the living room rattling and buzzing for 15 minutes or so this afternoon! Not quite certain but I think I stopped just shy of getting my first ASBO. Don't think I'll be able to resist taking it to rehearsal on Tuesday - I've some thick card that I can use to protect the speaker in transit, and it's a big room so hopefully it'll be safe. Now I need to get some grille cloth and make a frame up, and then get around to making this one's twin.

These are the best I've used:

Richard bought my Purple Chili cab. Very easy transaction all round, and I'd be more than happy to do business with him again.

Finally had the chance to make some progress. Box built, hole for speakon plate cut, and corners radiused. Had a bit of an issue with a little tear out on one surface, but that can be the bottom of the cab so no real issue. [url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0460_zpsyyzz1a3i.jpg.html"][/url] [url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0464_zpsjeqvryju.jpg.html"][/url] Also cut the ports... [url="http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0466_zpsrynouz7m.jpg.html"][/url] That's a can of Tuff Cab lurking in the corner, so I'm nearly ready to start painting. Just need to paint the baffle and inside of the recess black first, and I have some matt black acrylic spray for doing that. I need to decide how to fix the ports in place - any clues from those with some experience?

[quote name='tobiewharton' timestamp='1461487744' post='3034944'] Thanks guys. Are there generally additional costs other than postage to import necks from the US? [/quote] Oh yes. You'll have to pay VAT and import duty - I can't remember for sure from the last time I looked into it, but I think import duty would be around 3% for a neck from the US. You may get away without the import duty depending on the total value, but remember that you'll pay VAT on the total including the shipping costs. Depending on the carrier you may get stung for a fee by them too. Not trying to put you off (I've bought stuff from the US before), but just pointing out you need to consider the fees involved, otherwise you could get a nasty shock.

[quote name='rodney72a' timestamp='1461160482' post='3031992'] Decal looks like a replacement. [/quote] The whole neck looks like a replacement to my untrained eye.

I have a P with flats and a J with rounds. Been gassing for a while for another P to put rounds on, but also been gassing for a Squier VM Jazz (in natural, blocks and bound). Had absolutely no way to try and justify a second J, even to myself, and then you come along and resurrect this thread that I've not seen before...

[quote name='Callumjord' timestamp='1460889909' post='3029515'] Has anybody placed an eq pedal between the amp and cab to remove any boomy/boxy frequencys? [/quote] Possibly not the best place for it - I'd guess it would be removing all frequencies pretty quickly! If you have an effect loop in your amp then putting it in there might work, but even then I'd guess that the frequency bands would be too wide to be able to target anything, and you'd really need a parametric to give you a chance of doing that.

Can't speak for the Hartke, but the PF500 is a great amp. I'm just back from a first rehearsal with a new band (well, half of it's new), where I've been playing mine through the matching Ampeg 115, and it sounds great. Hope you like it!

Thanks Phil. I've already built one box as far as top, bottom, sides and rear panel. Basic approach was pretty much exactly as you said, with one exception in that I built back, sides and bottom with the top going on last, with the baffle piece in there to help keep it square. From looking at other build diaries I'd guessed that the usual approach was to build a sleeve and glue the back in afterwards, but I felt that I'd get more glue in the edges of the baffle piece if I did it that way. I'm not sure if I've missed a glaringly obvious reason for not doing it that way?! I'm pretty confident that it'll be well sealed given the amount of glue squeeze out I had, but I'll probably use caulk as well. I've yet to make the second box, so I can change the approach for that if it'll give me any benefit. Fortunately I've plenty of off-cuts the same width as the baffle so cutting a couple for side to side bracing should be easy, and likewise I have plenty for vane braces on the back panel. I should probably have put those on before gluing the baffle in, but I'm happy I can "clamp" them by putting the cab on its back and putting some heavy weight on them while the glue dries. Looking forward to making some more progress, but work and other things have a habit of getting in the way so I'm not sure when I'll get the chance which is a bit frustrating.

Having thought about it I'm going to buy one of those hole saw sets from Aldi. But I'm a self confessed gear snob, so I'm planning to give them a light rubbing down with some 800 grit, and apply a few home made "Makita" decals.

Thanks Phil and BotB, I hadn't thought about those points. Though I have to say as the potential seller of a couple of lightly used commercial cabs in the near future (based on the impending success of my basschat 1x12, of course) my gear is always placed carefully in the back of the van rather than chucked. Aldi hole saws - how much?! The look of the cheapie ebay things that Stevie and BotB used scared the sh*t out of me so I bought a hole cutter from Wickes, but I'm ashamed to say how much it cost me. Let's just say my wallet feels violated. And that was just a single cutter. Can I just take the opportunity to add yet another comment to a thread about what a great community Basschat can be at times, with people sharing their experience so freely and taking time to respond to numerous questions. Cheers all!

[quote name='Beer of the Bass' timestamp='1459516144' post='3017334'] That's a much better way of doing the baffle holes than my "freehand with a jigsaw followed by lots of cleanup" method! [/quote] There's a certain obsessive-compulsive part of me that appreciates a very neat and precise result, but there's another part that will hack out the hole for the speakon plate with a jigsaw because I can't be bothered to make a template for that!

Hi Stevie, yes I'll definitely use battens all round for the baffle rather than gluing it, but not so sure about the back panel yet. Being a belt and braces type I'll probably go for it, but I might check what the weight is like first, though the difference will probably be negligible Likewise I'll probably go for some minimal bracing as suggested by Phil in response to my question over on the Basschat 1x12 thread, though I have been poking around in my Purple Chili 112 cab (not too easy, but managed to take a few photos with an iPhone) and also my Ampeg PF115HE (very easy - the lid comes off...) and there's none that I can see in the PC, and only a single vane type brace in the Ampeg, hence the question. The other question that came to mind from looking at the Ampeg cab was about the importance of sealing. I've read a lot about making sure the glue is well spread in order to ensure a good seal, and I'll probably use some form of caulk as well (like I said, belt and braces), but the lid on the Ampeg cab is only sealed with some gasket tape and is designed to be taken off frequently, so I can't help wondering whether the whole issue of sealing is a little overblown.

There were quite a few reasonable pieces left over from the sheet, so I thought I'd try to make a template for routing the baffle. I have access to a bandsaw, which I thought might be easier to set up than a router. I didn't really have much of a clue how accurate I'd be, but I wanted to make sure the fit was a close as possible as I'm planning to use T nuts to secure the driver, and I don't want to be drilling the holes for them too close to the main cut out. The spec says 277.5mm diameter. I aimed for 278mm, and by some miracle that's what I actually got. Not bad for what is essentially one piece of ply nailed to another and rotated round... [URL=http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0444_zpsykqpaaf8.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r573/andrewjdowden/1x12%20Build/IMG_0444_zpsykqpaaf8.jpg[/IMG][/URL] I'll be waiting for the driver to arrive and checking it really does fit before I route the baffle, though!