Gottastopbuyinggear

Having thought about doing a 2x10 build for a little while, but being a novice at this sort of thing, I've decided to have a go instead at the basschat 1x12 (or hopefully something very much like it - I'm building in advance of the full write up, and my DIY skills aren't always the best!). There's a few reasons for going 1x12 for a first build but most importantly it's the opportunity to build the thing that I've been reading about for some time, and the fact that it seems to be pretty well received by the (albeit relatively limited?) audience that's heard it so far. I've bought enough materials to build two cabs, although only ordered a single driver so far, since the cost of the driver itself is the best part of half the cost of the cab. I plan to build both cabs and once I'm sure that I'm happy with the sound I'll order the second driver. I got the ply from Avon Plywood in Bristol, and they've cut it (very accurately) to size. I've gone for 18mm Poplar, so it wasn't cheap - just a shade under £60 +VAT for the full sheet, so a total of about £82 including VAT and cutting. The small cutting cost seems like an absolute bargain to me - I don't have a circular saw, and I didn't fancy using a router to square every edge. I'm not sure whether to reinforce every joint with a batten, but I've cut enough to enable me to do so. Raw materials so far, including template for routing the baffle: [URL=http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0442_zpsctww53in.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r573/andrewjdowden/1x12%20Build/IMG_0442_zpsctww53in.jpg[/IMG][/URL] [URL=http://s1172.photobucket.com/user/andrewjdowden/media/1x12%20Build/IMG_0447_zpsfv93bgxe.jpg.html][IMG]http://i1172.photobucket.com/albums/r573/andrewjdowden/1x12%20Build/IMG_0447_zpsfv93bgxe.jpg[/IMG][/URL]

Right, one more question and then I'll try and shut up. Actually, two more... Terminology point here perhaps about what "front" and "rear" mount means - I assume you're mounting the driver from the front of the cab, i.e. the driver will sit just proud of the baffle on the outside, but from what I can see the Beyma only has a sealing gasket on the front of the driver? Do you need some form of gasket on the rear to mount it? Also, from the drawings it seems the baffle sits 30mm back from the front of the cab - is there a specific reason for that, as it seems quite a deep recess? I'd probably be thinking about leaving a smaller recess and then adjusting the port length to account for the additional volume if necessary. So that's actually three questions, or four if you count the assumption...

Phil, can you give us a rough idea of what the bracing will be like for the 18mm cab? I notice you said that the unbraced 18mm cab vibrated less that the braced 12mm cab, so I'm wondering whether it's absolutely necessary to brace at all? Following my post a few days ago I now have the Beyma driver on order, and I also have my plywood, so I'm eager to get going - I'll start a build thread when I do, as I don't want to hijack this thread, but hopefully at the moment I'm asking questions that other people might also have. Current plan is to build the basic box but not glue the baffle in straight away, so I can try different port lengths if I feel the need to experiment. I'm hoping that some gasket tape on the battens to which I'll screw the baffle will provide a good enough seal. Anyone else got one (or more) of these in progress yet?

The post your pedalboard thread is pinned, and I had got quite used to this one being the same. Personally I think you should stick it, if you see what I mean...

Out of interest, what were the two basses?

I like them! I feel a case for my GK MB200 coming on... As someone who likes the right tool for the job I'm also impressed by your cutting mat, and metal rule with handle and spirit levels, and was about to make a slightly-sarcastic-but-hope-you-take-it-in-the-right-spirit remark about the knife when I remembered that the last time I cut some flight case foam I used a 12" carving knife...

Possibly a daft question since I don't know the circumstances of your band's break up, but is there any possibility of you putting something together with any of the remnants? Mind you, you're still in the same situation with respect to getting replies to ads and managing to actually conclude conversations if you need to advertise for anyone yourself.

Having posted recently about pondering a 2x10 build and commenting I also fancied trying the Basschat 1x12, I thought with some holiday at Easter coming up I'd put my money where my mouth is and commit to the 1x12 build. Feeling enthused and having ordered my 18mm Poplar ply I paid a quick visit to bluearan.co.uk where I find an availability figure of 5 to 7 weeks for the out of stock Beyma SM 212. Damn! Anyone know of an alternative supplier?

[quote name='ratman' timestamp='1457619335' post='3000194'] My Ginger came with the biasing already set to the ROG specs (I had mine made by VFE) and it had pretty much no clean at all. I've since adjusted the biases back a bit and it's brought the pedal to life. Mine doesn't start to break up now until the gain is at 9 o@clock. I love it. [/quote] Did you measure the bias voltage or just adjust by ear? I built a Ginger a few months ago and set the bias around 6v as suggested on the ROG site, and it's very polite - have to get beyond 12 o'clock to get any appreciable break up. Perhaps because I'm using log taper pots? I really like the Ginger, though I occasionally feel that it might be lacking a bit of bass. I have the parts for an SFT build now, which hopefully I'll get done over the Easter period. It'll be interesting to compare the two.

[quote name='PaulWarning' timestamp='1457449085' post='2998688'] slightly different but there's a similar thread live at the moment [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/280453-i-need-ear-protection/page__st__30"]http://basschat.co.u...on/page__st__30[/url] [/quote] True, and also the one about IEMs for pub gigs, but I didn't want to pollute them with my ear wax!

[quote name='walbassist' timestamp='1457444181' post='2998620'] I've had impressions taken twice for custom plugs, and both times it was emphasised me that the ear canal has to be absolutely clear of wax, so you need to tell the nurse why you need them 100% squeaky clean (i.e. it's not just to improve your hearing, it's to have custom earplugs made). [/quote] I guess a follow on question is whether syringing is usually enough for this or whether something else like microsuction is likely to be needed?

Motorhead at Cardiff University Union in the late eighties. I knew it would be loud and stuffed some cotton wool in my ears, which might have helped a bit. Just before it started a couple of the more hardened members of the local heavy rock scene sought me out. I thought they were going to take the piss because they'd heard I had cotton wool in my ears - turned out they wanted to know if I had any spare...

A question for those that have custom moulded earplugs - not suitable for those put off by discussions on ear wax... I'm interested in giving custom moulded plugs a try in an effort to get something with a flatter response than the generic ER20 and similar things I currently use. I booked an appointment a while back with an audiologist at my local Boots with a view to getting fitted for ACS custom moulded plugs. He took one look in my ears and said there was so much wax in them he wouldn't be able to get the fitting done, and that I'd have to get my ears syringed and come back. Cue trip to the doctors, two weeks with olive oil ear drops and an appointment with the nurse for syringing. When I turned up for the syringing appointment I was told that they would only do as much as was necessary to enable them to see anything of the ear drum, and then they'd stop as soon as they had a glimpse of it. Hence I suspected that there was probably still quite a bit of wax in there. That coincided with a little bit of a hiatus in playing, though I'm back playing once or twice a week now, but probably have a bit more wax built up in the interim. Just wondered what experience other people have had - has anyone else been unable to get fitted for custom plugs due to having too much wax, and if so what did you do about it if syringing didn't clear it sufficiently?

Bought a Purple Chili 112NT from Stephen a couple of weeks ago, and have been very pleased with it. More to the point, Stephen was an excellent guy to deal with - really friendly, good communications, very clear and honest about the (very good) condition of the cab. A very easy and pleasant experience all round, and I'd happily do business with him again.

I feel for you. I've only ever sold two guitars, still miss one, and don't like the one I bought to replace the other. Lent a guitar to my niece ages ago, missed it and caused a huge row with my in-laws when I asked for it back despite the fact that she never played it. Gave my first bass (Westone Thunder - given to me by another friend years ago when I only played guitar) to a friend, and I'm trying desperately to not ask if I could have it back having just found out he's still got it.

[quote name='alexclaber' timestamp='1456412343' post='2988763'] Will you be changing your username to Gottastopbuildinggear? [/quote] Gottastartbuyingplywood if I'm to get anywhere with this!

Mississippi Queen, by Mountain. Been down so long, by The Doors. Born under a bad sign, loads of different versions.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1456320504' post='2987778'] There is a wood merchant across the water in Bristol who stocks poplar ply: <http://www.avonply.co.uk/Client%20Area/ASP/Plywood.aspx>. I'm not a fan of 1/2" plywood, but if you do get normal ply, make sure you get Scandinavian or Russian birch ply. The good stuff really does make a difference to the stiffness of the cabinet. Beyma is a great choice. Their ceramic drivers are probably the best value out there at the moment (at least in the UK). [/quote] I've actually already sent a quote request to Avon ply (based on the Basschat 1x12) just to see what their prices are and whether they'll deliver to Cardiff. Otherwise it'll be Easter at the earliest before I'd be able to get over to them to pick an order up. I'll take a look at the Beyma 10s as well - I can see that the 12 is getting a lot of love.

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1456303786' post='2987477'] Happy to give anyone a preview if you just want dimensions. [/quote] Thanks Phil, that would definitely be of interest to me, along with what drivers you've used. Not sure if you want to PM that to me, or post it here and risk opening up a flood of questions - I bet I'm not the only one who's interested. [quote name='stevie' timestamp='1456312437' post='2987614'] If this is a first build, you might be better to keep it simple and go with a 1x12". The size you want to build is about right for a 12. There is a wider choice of suitable drivers. Driver cost is going to be virtually half. There is quite a lot of info on this site covering a 12" build - the Basschat 12 Diary, and Beer of the Bass's build thread, to name just two. Your choice, of course. [/quote] Yes, I'm quite keen to build the Basschat 1x12 as well, and I'm eagerly awaiting the full write up, although I think enough has been published so far to crack on anyway. I'm looking for a suitable local supplier for plywood at the moment (struggling to find someone in Cardiff who'll supply Poplar, so I might go for 12mm birch and brace). I was going to come up with a cutting list to cover the 1x12 and a 2x10, plus I've got a kit built valve amp to house as well, so all in all quite a bit to keep me going!

[quote name='Phil Starr' timestamp='1456247353' post='2987044'] If you are going for Neo then the basslites are a good recommendation. I see you've found the Eminence website designs. As you can see from there the bass at -10dB does depend upon the size of the cab, and you'll need Bills bigger cab to get that. My opinion is that it's not the most important thing for playing live. [/quote] Part of the reason for the question about typical frequency response from commercial cabs was because I'm not sure I want a cab that does go particularly low. My PF115 goes low enough for me at the moment. I did take a quick look at the Fane, but the first thing I looked at was the weight, and then I looked no further! I was looking on the Eminence site at the weekend and the basslite sc 10 looks interesting. I see that's a new driver so I'm not sure how long it'll take for them to be available over here. That's available in 16 ohm, so I could make an 8 ohm 2x10 in case I wanted to add a second. I can't see me ever needing two 2x10s, but when has 'need' ever had any bearing on it.

[quote name='LukeFRC' timestamp='1456184512' post='2986481'] . You will save yourself (the OP) a lot of time and money if you stick "bill fitzmaurice simplexx " into Google and buy some plans.... [/quote] Probably, but where would be the fun in that?! In fact I was already thinking of ordering the Simplexx plans, and have now done so although not received them yet. I'm assuming they'll have driver recommendations in them, and also hoping that there will be information in them about expected frequency response. I'm guessing from Bill's post that recommended drivers may well be/include the Deltalite ii. Referring back to what I alluded to in my original post, part of this for me is the satisfaction of building something for myself, and I'm happy to make some mistakes along the way, so that takes care of the time element. From a cost perspective it's the drivers rather than the actual cab where I don't want to make any huge mistakes, as for weight reasons I'll be looking for neo drivers and they're not exactly cheap. Hence the (pretty wild, I admit) conjecture about Markbass driver characteristics and wondering whether anyone had any views on that. I recognise that cab design is a massively complex subject, but on the other hand plenty of people appear to have had a crack at it and been happy with the results. The approach I had in mind was based on using a combination of the design parameters offered by Eminence, and WinISD, to come up with something which would hopefully have room for making some adjustments, if necessary, through adjustments to port size. There's definitely an attraction to building a proven design first, though, to be pretty certain of getting a good result. Also, from an educational point of view it would be good to be able to hear the reality of that result (i.e. build against a proven design) and reconcile it with a theoretical frequency response characteristic, if one is available. Of course, I could just be completely out of my mind as well as out of my depth - only time will tell.

I'm thinking about building a 2x10 cab to replace the Markbass Traveler 102P that I've been using for about a year now. I was pleased with that cab at first, but over time I've become more aware of it's prominent mid character and have now fallen completely out of love with it. The other cabs I use are an Ampeg PF115HE, which is great but a tad heavy, and very recently a Purple Chili 112 with no tweeter. Both of those give me enough bass for what I play (a mixture of old school R&B, classic rock, blues, etc. - J and P Basses). I'm looking for thump, not highs (tend to play with tweeters off) or huge deep lows. I'm considering a DIY build just for the fun of it, and may well try the Basschat 1x12 too. The first question I have is around real world frequency response, and what in reality I would expect to get from a very portable (perhaps 50 or 60 litres) ported 2x10. From the brief messing I've done with WinISD I'd expect to be able to get 3dB down at around 60-70Hz, and maybe 10dB down in the mid 40s Hz area. Is this a reasonable expectation for what I'd get from a fairly good quality commercial cab, and hence a good target for a DIY build? I get the impression that many of the claims of commercial cabs going down to the mid 40s Hz area are based on -10dB at that point rather than -3dB. Second consideration is around speaker choice. I couldn't find any real information about the speakers currently used by Markbass, but having heard they used to use B&C I had a quick look on their website and found that the frequency response charts for all their 10" Neos seem to indicate being between 5 and 7.5 dB higher between 300 and 1,000Hz compared to the 100 to 200Hz area, which I'm assuming would indicate quite prominent mids? I've been looking at a couple of Eminence speakers (Basslite S2010 and Deltalite ii 2510, mainly because they're well known and easily available) and they don't have that significant difference, being relatively flat from soon after 100Hz all the way up to 1KHz. I'm only just starting out trying to get anywhere near an understanding of this stuff, so I'd be interested in the opinions of those with more experience, in particular if my (fairly huge) assumptions about Markbass driver characteristics are likely to be on the right track. Also, any other suggestions for 10" lightweight speakers to consider, in a similar price range. I'm not worried about power handling - the MB and PC cabs give me more than enough volume at about 11 or 12 o'clock on a GK MB200, so they don't need to be able to handle hundreds of Watts. Sorry about the long winded post - give yourself a pat on the back if you've read to the end!

Another vote for the Scott Devine video that covers moving your hand when playing one fret per finger, and the thumb position behind the neck. This is coming from someone who's played guitar with a really poor fretting hand technique for 35 years, and has finally had to learn correct positioning. I'd also suggest for anything with repetitive moves between first and third finger (for example Dr. Feelgood's Roxette) considering building strength in the little finger and using that instead of the third for part of the time. I find doing that helps keep the fretting hand comfortable, and has the added benefit of making the little finger stronger for when you have to use it it. Regarding the instrument, I've played a Jazz bass for a few years and bought a Precision last year. At first I got quite upset at how difficult I found it playing down the end of the neck, but a little perseverance has overcome that and I now find it just as easy as playing the Jazz. I personally find playing whilst sitting a little easier on the left hand as I think that naturally pushes the body of the bass to the right a bit further than when standing, but I generally practice standing up and found angling the neck up a bit helps with keeping the fretting hand comfortable. As a slight aside, as someone who's always struggled to fret the low e on a guitar with the thumb over the top position, I recall seeing some film of Jimi Hendrix (from Woodstock I think) where he plays a chord like that and then walks down about three frets on the E with his thumb...

There's loads of bass related stuff on Redbubble. I've bought a few of their tee shirts in the past and they seem pretty good quality - wash well and don't fade. Be careful of the sizing though - I needed to go for a size larger than I expected, but fortunately one of my kids wanted the first one I ordered which was slightly too small for me.

Perhaps this is a case of RTFM then! Thanks Dad and obbm for the answers - I'll give this another go when I get the chance. And, WOT, this thread was definitely worth it for the new tricks joke. I salute you!